Stripping off Tru Oil finish

[Bob F]

While I wait for parts for my next build to arrive, I figured now was a good time to refinish my Lyman GPR that I use for deer hunting.   The finish on it is several coats of Tru Oil and I was wondering what was the easiest way to remove this so I could sand the stock and start the refinish.

Thanks in advance for any help....Bob

[Ken G]

I don't know about the easiest way but I've stripped one using Klean-Strip or something like that.  Basically paint stripper.  I used a stiff paint brush and some steel wool to get all the gunk off.  Took it into the yard and hosed it off.  Wear rubber gloves and some safety glasses.  The stripper seems to work equally as well on human flesh as it does paint and varnish.

[Red Owl]

Another method would be to scrap off the old finish however you would need a cabinet scraper- NOT a typical paint scraper that would gouge the wood.  One advantage of the scraping method is the old finish is removed dry.  Using solvents or even sand paper can sometimes work some of the old finish into the bare wood. 
   Cabinet scrapers are available at WoodCrafters, etc.

[Bob F]

Thanks I think I have a cabinet scraper and I'll give it a try. If I can't get it to work right I'll go with a stripper.

[keweenaw]

Much, much easier to take it off with the paint remover. 

Tom

[Longknife]

A good way to strip a stock is use some kind of wood "refinisher". Formbys or any other brand. Paint it on, scrub with a soft brush, and wipe off the finish off with a rag soaked in the refinisher (wear gloves)  It may take a couple of coats to remove it all. Then raise the grain and "sand" with a scotchbrite, if needed. This method will remove NO wood so everything will fit right. I never use sand paper on a refinish job, that takes off wood and .yopu don't wanr that.....Good luck...Ed

P.S while you are at it take a close look at a few original  Hawkens as those GP rifles could use a little "corrective" wood removal, especially the lock panels IMHO....

[Red Owl]

Well I'm always looking for better ways to do things.  With the paint stripper- do you stain the wood after and if so- any problems.  I agree- a paint stripper is far better as long as none of the old finish soaks into the wood.  Thanks.

[Bob F]

I was also thinking of using some Davis triggers as a replacement. It has fiber optic sights that I want to replace with traditional.

[Stophel]

I use a LOT of StrypEze.  Too much, I think...

[roundball]

I've refinished several used stocks and for me personally the simplist, fastest way is that I drop it off at a local antique furniture place that has a commercial chemical stripping booth...no sanding or scraping, just chemicals...I pick it up the following week for $20-$25 and it's down to the bare raw wood, ready to start applying fresh coats of Tru-Oil...found the place using the yellow pages.

[Longknife]

Yes red owl you will have to stan the wood. just treat it like a new stock...Roundball, I can strip one inan hour and buy beer with that $25.00!! Ed

[roundball]

That's great.....not a beer drinker...just offering another way to do it without having to screw around with chemicals

[Bob F]

Well, the first coating of stripper is on and off and removed quite a bit of the old finish.  I applied a second coat tonight and will let it sit overnight wrapped in clear wrap to keep it from drying out as the instructions recommend. 

I also started removing all of the old blueing from the hardware and I remebered how much I really don't like sanding but once it's all done I plan on browning everything with LMF Plum Brown.  I also started some research on what wood needs to be removed to make it more in line with the original Hawkens.  What I plan so far is the perch belly that the GPR has, some wood around the lock plate and I am going to round off the wood to barrel finish. 

I am also going to inlet a teardrop for the lock bolt and replace the Lyman triggers with a set of Davis double set triggers..

For those who have built Hawken's before...what sights are more historically correct...a buckhorn rear or a longer adjustable elevation rear sight?

Any other suggestions I mght have missed???  All comments are welcome.

thanks.....