thursdays work.............

[kaintuck]

46" straight 40cal 7/8" barrel from lil Charles~
FATbutt~
 
thin butt now.....still proud wood, but the scrapers will play that extra off soon......

 
 

5 hrs work to get lock in and TG in with D&T bolts...only one bolt to loack on this KY Barrens riffle~ 

I may do more saturday......thinning the front will use my fav spokeshave with rounded blade....  
get tomtom outta the way.....gotta work!

marc n tomtom
 

[David Rase]

Your gun is shaping up nicely.  I like using one lock bolt on these southern guns,  it allows you to get the web of wood between the barrel and ramrod down to about 1/16" thick, thus allowing you to really slim sown the forestock.
Either tomtom is not impressed or you done tuckered him out!
David

[kaintuck]

Your gun is shaping up nicely.  I like using one lock bolt on these southern guns,  it allows you to get the web of wood between the barrel and ramrod down to about 1/16" thick, thus allowing you to really slim sown the forestock.
Either tomtom is not impressed or you done tuckered him out!
David

his natural pose.......he's cont'inplating cold fusion mathmatic equations  and spacial/time vortex therories~~

[James Wilson Everett]

Guys,

I echo what David R. said.  Looking at the photo of the lock side, is it possible to take a bit more wood in the area below the lock?  This would help to keep the forestock nice & thin.  One way to do this is to drill a small hole, like 1/8 inch, downwards from the breech end of the barrel all the way through to the bottom of the forestock.  The hole should come out in the area covered by the front extension of the trigger guard.  Now it is easy to see how much wood is between the forestock belly and the ramrod hole.  Shave this down to about 1/16 inch or so.  The hole allows you to slim down the forestock without the risk of cutting into the ramrod channel.  Often on original rifles, when you remove the trigger guard, the ramrod channel is exposed - the only wood between the ramrod hole and the forestock belly is the depth of the trigger guard inlet!

Here is a photo of a gun with a thin forestock, see how little the wood is beneath the lock and above the triggerguard.


Jim

[Kermit]

Nice, Jim!

[kaintuck]

james, yup...there is about 1/4" in belly wood, but what it looks like now is so square~so she looks bulky....but i will shave just a tad more off the belly, then inset the TG and feather all the radii in~~~this one is my build not to sell, but as a present.....so it'll be just a tad my way

now the NEXT one is a Moravain.......next to THIS rifle, it'll be clunky!!!!

It's gonna be raining all weekend......so, the spokeshave and scrapers will be making curly-q's of cherry!!!!!!!

marc n tomtom

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Marc:  this and now is your opportunity to work on the slenderness of the forearm.  The web wood between your barrel and the rod hole needs to be only about 1/8", or just enough wood to allow for the barrel tenons to not interfere with the rod hole.  And that's all.  If your pins are 1/16", you will need to pass your drill so it just touches the bottom flat of the barrel, and goes through the tenon.  You only need 1/16" of steel below the hole in the tenon to support the pin.  That will give you a tenon of only 1/8".
So once your tenons are pinned to the stock, cut your rod groove in the upper forearm so that you will have a web of 1/8" or so.  3/16" is a lot and more is a mistake.  Once your rod groove is cut and oriented so that the drill will run true, drill your hole.
For a .40 cal. a hole of 5/16" is great.  Your hole should end up 1/8" from the barrel and even with the breech plug.  Now measure down and mark the side of your stock where the bottom of the rod hole is...the advice given above describes how to determine this accurately.  Having drawn in the rod hole on the side of the wood, lock side, give yourself 1/16" - 1/8" for the wood under the hole, and draw that line onto the stock too.  Take away all of the wood that is below this last line.  I think you'll have to re-inlet your trigger plate, if you have done that already, because you have much too much wood along the bottom of your stock.
So, to reiterate:  on the side of the wood, lock side, draw a line indicating the bottom flat of the barrel.  Next another line indicating the bottom ;line of the web, 1/8" from the bottom of the barrel.  then the next line is the rod hole's bottom line using 5/16" as our example.  Finally, the bottom line is the underside of the stock.



This is a rifle I built using those guidelines, and I got them from dimensions acquired by Tom Curran and Eric Von Auschwege in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.  My rifle inspired by those dimensions, uses a swamped barrel 1' at the breech and .40 calibre, and the same lock you are using.  The rifle is alive like a bird in your hand.

I agree, your Movavian build will be more voluptuous.

[flinchrocket]

Taylor, would you need more wood with double set triggers than a single trigger. I realize it would
depend on the lock to some extent, but seems like I usually end up needing more wood for the
double set trigger.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

No - I don't think so.  Davis' triggers do not take up much room vertically.  If you ever have issues with 'not enough room for the double set triggers', you can always bend a step into the bar of the lock's sear to provide clearance.  It doesn't require much if at all.

[Bob Roller]

No - I don't think so.  Davis' triggers do not take up much room vertically.  If you ever have issues with 'not enough room for the double set triggers', you can always bend a step into the bar of the lock's sear to provide clearance.  It doesn't require much if at all.

The sears in my locks are 0-1,oil hardened and tempered.Bend at your own expense.
 Pre plan the rifle and make a full size drawing of the lock/trigger/breech area and
try to measure the position of the sear in relation to the height of the trigger(s).
Buying a bunch of mismatched parts and then trying to make a rifle or pistol or fowler
with them is a diaster in the making.

Bob Roller

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That is excellent advice, Bob.  Bending the bar on any sear requires red heat, and protecting the hardened and tempered 'working' part of the sear is critical.  As far as creating a rifle, the very first step is to draw a profile 'blueprint' of the rifle, especially the butt stock to the entry pipe, and make it full scale and accurate.  Then there are no surprises.

[Pete G.]

As far as creating a rifle, the very first step is to draw a profile 'blueprint' of the rifle, especially the butt stock to the entry pipe, and make it full scale and accurate.  Then there are no surprises.

I respectfully disagree. The potential for disaster may be somewhat averted, but there is still plenty of room for surprises. That is what keeps this obsession we share so entertaining.