Flared Nosecap

[draken]

I have a set of parts from Dunlop for Transitional Issac Haines rifle.  The end of the forestock has a very pronounced flare. 

My question; how does one go about making a tapered and flared nosecap to match the stock contour?

[Glenn]

One suggestion; pour one out of pewter.

[Jerry V Lape]

Don't believe I have ever seen an Isaac Haines with a pronounced flair so perhaps you should inquire about the correctness of that first.  As for making a flared nosecap, guess I would form the sides around the forend or a piece of hard wood shaped to match it.  Then solder the end cap inside and file the edge to produce a rounded edge. 

[E.vonAschwege]

Without seeing the plans I won't comment on their authenticity, however there are several longrifle plans available in which the designer has taken significant artistic liberties.  This pronounced flare may be just that.  Some builders add flare to the muzzle end of the stock when building a straight barreled gun to give it the illusion of a swamped barrel.  Look in RCA at some original Haines and other Lancaster guns and you'll find what an appropriate muzzle cap should look like - the flare should be parallel to the barrel itself.  Now, if we're talking early German jaegers, they often had pronounced flared nose caps. 

If you still want to make it flared, I'd shape a block of hard maple the same as your muzzle and bend the brass around that.  You'll have to trim away excess wood at the muzzle to fit the narrow end of the muzzlecap in place. 
-Eric

[Dave B]

Here is a one piece cap in brass I made years ago. I just slowly shaped the cap down by squeezing down the back of the muzzle of the cap and then filing down the sides that contact the sides of the barrel at the back end. Just keep fitting filing and squeezing. You will get a nice moderate tapered cap. Here is one that is in final process of being fit.

[smallpatch]

Darken,

That flare on the fore stock is NOT intended to be the final shape of the muzzle.  The nose cap that is included is.
I've built a few of these kits, and the flare is quite extreme.
Remove wood to fit the nose cap.

[Tom Currie]

I have made quite a few one piece nose caps using the method Peter Alexander shows in his book Gunsmith of Grenville County. I've found that by working and hammering the brass over at the end a slight flare results and makes a nice effect.

[Acer Saccharum]

When making your own caps out of sheet brass, you can accommodate the flare of the muzzle a little better than with a cast cap. As others have said, you can work the cap over the end of the stock, and the ends spring back in against the barrel. Leave a little extra metal on the inside top edges of the cap to allow for fitting against the barrel.

for your next project: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=24785.0

[Robby]

Draken, this is a Jaeger type rifle and I wanted a taper in the nose cap, and maybe a touch more to accentuate that flare. I made it pretty much the way Acer does in his tutorial except I formed it on the stock, filling the barrel channel with a fitted piece of wood to prevent cracking that pared down area. Before slipping it on I gave it a bit of a squeeze at the rear. it retains enough spring to slip past the flare at the end of the stock and hug it tight when in place. I used a heat sensitive glue to secure in place and riveted it. This was pre-internet and I didn't know if it was correct or not, I just thought it was the way it should be, to my eye anyway.
Robby

[Long John]

My experience is consistent with Acer and Robby's.  I like to make the muzzle cap with about an additional 1/16th inch flare greater than that of the barrel.  I form the muzzle cap on a separate solid wooden form carved to duplicate the end of the muzzle.  That way I don't risk cracking the forestock.  There is enough spring in the brass to result in a tight "snap-fit" when the cap is installed on the rifle.

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[JTR]

The picture of the finished muzzle they show on their website doesn't show much flare, so obviously Smallpatch, post #5, is correct.

John

[draken]

Thanks to all of you for your valuable input. I'm glad to hear that the extreme flare is not correct.   

The information available as well as the skill level of the members on this board simply amazes me.