Jeweling a lock?

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

Guys I was just curious but how does one go about Jeweling the inside of a lock? I've seen a couple locks that have been done like that and thought it was cool looking. Any clue where to start?

[Bob Roller]

Guys I was just curious but how does one go about Jeweling the inside of a lock? I've seen a couple locks that have been done like that and thought it was cool looking. Any clue where to start?

A good gunsmith supply store should have the correct tool for jeweling the inside of a lock.
 I have had one since the 1950's and got it from a New York City shop called Frank Mittermeier.
 Another term for jeweling is engine turning or damascening.

 Bob Roller

[elk killer]

take a new pencil,
super glue a piece of sandpaper to the eraser,
chuck it in the drill press,just move it from spot to spot
replace sand paper as needed
hey it works.!!

[moleeyes36]

Guys I was just curious but how does one go about Jeweling the inside of a lock? I've seen a couple locks that have been done like that and thought it was cool looking. Any clue where to start?

Brownells offers a number of options. http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=jewelling&ksubmit=y


Mole Eyes

[Captchee]

 Not sure what Bobs tool looks like . But the old  one I have is really nothing more then a  3/8 rubber abrasive  bar attached to a shaft .
  I place the item to be jeweled in my  mill .  In doing so I can insure I get better control over the overlap .
 IE simply bring the tip down  make a swirl . Mover over   or down  ½ the distance  of your swirl and make the next on .  Then move over and make the next .
 Depending on the effect you can move more or less  , just keep some overlap .
 Also keep in mind  you want consistence . IE strait lines and  consistent overlap

[WKevinD]

Dremel makes a wire brush, 1/8" shank and about 1/4"dia.. I used to jewel the inside of brass lock plates with one.
Chucked up in a drill press with a cross slide vice then dip the brush in jewelers rouge and proceed as Captchee says

[Brookville]

I did a few locks some years ago using the kit from Brownells. Pretty easy if you have a drill press and a vise with a slide.

[Acer Saccharum]

I never saw an original American longrifle with engine turned insides. More appropriately used on modern shotguns.

Cratex is abrasive-filled rubber for purposes like this. comes in stick, rounds and square, and on 1/8" shanks in various shapes like ball, cylinder and pointed.

[Daveco]

When I was in high school, I was lucky enough to be able to take machine shop for the second half of the day both my junior and senior years. Some of the graded projects required jeweling, and for that we used a 3/8" or so wood dowel in the drill press with an abrasive paste (something akin to valve grinding compound) to provide the cutting action. If you got too "Gorilla" on it the tip would flare, but as I remember it worked pretty well.  They don't bother to teach such things anymore- around here anyway.

Dave.

[Hungry Horse]

 I decided I wanted an engine turned dash panel in a car I was building, but had no idea how to do it. I fooled around, and ended up, cementing a rubberized polishing wheel designed for a Dremel tool, to an old valve out of a lawnmower. I lubed it with plain water, and chucked it up in my drill press. It worked fine, and left no residue like cutting compounds do.
 Please tell me you aren't jeweling the inside of a CVA Hawkens lock.

            Hungry Horse

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

exactly my plans! I still have the shotgun to build and want it snazzy.

[tuffy]

www.midwayusa.com

go to bottom of page and click on video library, click on Gunsmithing, click on metal work & finishing, click on page 9, click on Upgrading a pair of L.C. Smith locks.


                   CW

[Turtle]

OK, How about an easier finish for the exterior than hrs of mirror polishing?
                                                        Turtle

[WadePatton]

take a new pencil,
super glue a piece of sandpaper to the eraser,
chuck it in the drill press,just move it from spot to spot
...

can load the eraser with abrasive compounds too. like if you're all out of super glue and haven't run out of clover compound yet.  (does anyone ever?)

OK, How about an easier finish for the exterior than hrs of mirror polishing?
                                                        Turtle

Why would you want a mirror polish anyway? A mirror-finished pan and breechplug is functional though.  It's easier to just stop short by several grades of paper and buffing, but that's after cleaning and smoothing everything up.  Even if i force pitting- for character, I'm going to start with cleaned and smoothed castings. 

White can be bright without mirror.  Current lock is 1000+ grit finished and that's about as bright as I'm going.  Resists corrosion well enough and is easy to keep bright.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

I will try the pencil and drill press tomorrow.

If you use a round pencil and a paper hole punch, you can make a  bunch of sand paper discs that are perfectly flush with the pencil!

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

awesome! the pencil with a piece of sand paper glued to it works really well. I will buy the tool though as I am sure its better.

Looks like I can do some jeweling on cva locks now.

[Scota4570]

"Dremel makes a wire brush, 1/8" shank and about 1/4"dia."

That is what I use.  Also stack some little O-rings on the brissels to prevent them from splaying out.  I use #320 clover grease based valve grinding comound.  The brush idea works better than more rigid tools because it follows any contour irregularities better.  You also need a way to hold the part and move it in a repeatable way.  That could be a ruler fixed to the drill press with a hash mark on the work holder.  A milling machine works better though.   

[Brookville]

Try to keep the "grinding" time and pressure equal for each circle.

[Long Ears]

All that for a CVA lock?

[docone]

Another option for the brush technique, is to use heat shrink tape on the bristles.
I have found, the O rings will slide up and on the metal part. Even though the bristles are metal also, the compound causes expansion.
The Heat shrink tape, or tubing, will not ride as high and keeps the bristles intact for the polish.
You will like the effect. The overlap makes the patterns really fall into line.
I made a fixture that I measured 3/16" lines. I clamped the bolt I jeweled and moved it according to the marks.
When it was done, I was pleased. First time came out well also.
Good luck on that. Keep the pressure the same from start to finish.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

All that for a CVA lock?

Check out my post in the muzzleloading area and you'll see why.

This was just a test lock to see if I could do it or not. Nothing to be stoked over but still a great learning process. I will have to do more reading up on it though when I have some bandwidth.

[Flint62Smoothie]

"Dremel makes a wire brush, 1/8" shank and about 1/4"dia."

That is what I use.  Also stack some little O-rings on the brissels to prevent them from splaying out.  I use #320 clover grease based valve grinding compound.

Same here! Although I had started with the pencil and glued on paper trick.

You also need a way to hold the part and move it in a repeatable way.

Simple! Graph paper of 3/16" or 1/4" squares taped to the drill press table works SLICK! What I do is make a jig to hold the part and the base of the jig is square or rectangular ... so one edge of it can be used to follow along the squares. Try it, it works GREAT!

[tuffy]

FM ..... Now all you need is one of these. You can get them on flea-bay for under $50.




                   CW

[Bob Roller]

All that for a CVA lock?

Check out my post in the muzzleloading area and you'll see why.

This was just a test lock to see if I could do it or not. Nothing to be stoked over but still a great learning process. I will have to do more reading up on it though when I have some bandwidth.

 I have been told this "jeweling" or engine turning was developed
 by watch makers to hold a film of oil like contour plowing holds
 water.

 Bob Roller

[Captchee]

All that for a CVA lock?

 Not to bad for a first attempt  but see what I was getting at about consistency  in line and overlap .
  You should not be able to see a full complete circle  even  when completing your last row as part of those circles will be off the item . Unless of course your doing a round object like a gun bolt . In which case I  hide the full circles on the back side  or bottom
  Its also very important not to go back and try and fill in a spot . Doing so will leave that complete circle  which always sticks  out  like a sore thumb .