Forward Lock Bolt / Sideplate

[frogwalking]

I am working on a rifle with a very small web between the bottom of the barrel and the top of the ramrod hole.  Fortunately, I have a few 6-32 lock bolts.  Even so, it looks like the bolt hole will have to have a gentle slant upward from the lock to the sideplate, and a slight groove may have to be filed in the barrel (.32 cal.).  Is this OK, or is there a better way.  I plan on making my sideplate, so exact location to hit a cast sideplate is not required.  Does anyone use cast sideplates?  If so, how do you hit the right spot, while missing the ramrod hole and landing in the right place on the lock?

[EC121]

I would put a fake front screw in the sideplate for looks and use one screw.  You could even put a fake screw end in the lockplate.   I have a rifle with the cut out front screw.  Not a big deal, but a PITA to keep it lined up.

[mountainman70]

ditto that thought!!!I have filed a notch in small barrels to do the same job.Like to use the dummy front screw idea.Dave

[E.vonAschwege]

A 6-32 is plenty strong for our current applications, and helps hold the lock more solidly than one lock bolt alone.  I don't use cast sideplates unless its a fancy European piece.  There's no golden rule that says lock bolts must be perpendicular to the stock - angle them up or down to suit function and aesthetics.  I don't think a small round notch in the barrel is a big deal, nor is notching the lock bolt if need be to clear a ramrod.  The latest rifle I made has an 8-32 bolt turned to a 6-32 diameter in the middle to clear the ramrod. 
-Eric

[B Shipman]

I'd rather have the minimal web and notch the screw or barrel than a wide web and issues of being to high in the forestock and lock area.

[Bob Roller]

I am working on a rifle with a very small web between the bottom of the barrel and the top of the ramrod hole.  Fortunately, I have a few 6-32 lock bolts.  Even so, it looks like the bolt hole will have to have a gentle slant upward from the lock to the sideplate, and a slight groove may have to be filed in the barrel (.32 cal.).  Is this OK, or is there a better way.  I plan on making my sideplate, so exact location to hit a cast sideplate is not required.  Does anyone use cast sideplates?  If so, how do you hit the right spot, while missing the ramrod hole and landing in the right place on the lock?

 The 6x32 is a wretched thread.WAY too coarse for the diameter and for years I have
  called them 32 fracture lines per inch.

 Bob Roller

[EC121]

To hit the spot on your sideplate, drill halfway from each side with a smaller bit.  You can use a larger bit in the pilot hole if they hit together or if necessary, you can work from the inside the barrel channel to open up the middle.

[James Rogers]

I'd rather have the minimal web and notch the screw or barrel than a wide web and issues of being to high in the forestock and lock area.

Ditto,
What is the web thickness at the front bolt location frogwalking?
Like Eric, I prefer to put a waist on the bolt as opposed to a notch.

[Dennis Glazener]

If so, how do you hit the right spot, while missing the ramrod hole and landing in the right place on the lock?

I use a depth gauge to measure the distance from the top of the barrel rails to the bottom of the barrel channel then work the math to determine where I want the screw hole to be so that the drill cuts a shallow groove across the bottom of the barrel. I then use the depth gauge to mark the center of where to drill the lock bolt hole (again measuring from the top of the barrel rails).

Depending on how brave you are you can allow the drill bit to cut the barrel groove or drill the hole with the barrel removed then file the groove so the screw clears the barrel. Haven't had to go to a 6X32 screw so far. Max depth of groove for me has been about .030" and with a 5/16" tip everything cleared fine.

I also have used single 8X32 lock bolts on flints and have not had a problem.
Dennis

[LehighBrad]

I just inlet the side plate and lock on a Lehigh style pistol I'm currently building and I did the 'ol "dummy front bolt" with the side plate. I agree only having one 8x32 lock bolt is plenty for holding the lock securely in the gun. And visually, no one is gonna know, much less care.  No need to add the extra headache and stress of proper front bolt placement, especially if it increases my screw up chances greatly! 

[David Price]

What I would do is ignore the ram rod hole for now.   Put the forward lock screw in where it should be.  If you have access to a milling machine, using a 3/8 inch round end  mill, go into the barrel channel with the end mill and lower the ram rod hole enough so that the loading stick will go below the lock bolt.  Then put the bolt in place.   Put a slight taper on the loading stick, coat it with wax,  and slide it in place under the bolt.  Next mix up some epoxy with fiber glass filler in it and pour it over the rod until it comes up level with the bottom flat of the barrel channel.  If you want to hide the repair completely, after the the epoxy hardens,  glass bed the whole barrel channel.  Be sure to pull  the loading stick out when the epoxy is just a bit thicker than hand soap.  A tapered metal rod works better than the wood rod, but the wood will work.

Using a pair of sheers , I sheer off about 1/6 of an inch off the edge of some fiberglass cloth and add the clippings to the epoxy.  That keeps the epoxy from running too much and strengthens the epoxy.

[frogwalking]

Thanks for all the replies.  Dennis, I made a poor mans depth gauge and did some calculations.  I located the 6-32 front lock bolt a little high on the lock.  Then located the hole on the sideplate side a little higher.  I drilled from each side using my spike in the drillpress table. and missed the ramrod hole and the barrel both.  I thought I was erring on the high side so I would hit the barrel channel rather than the (5/16) ramrod hole.   Wife and I went to a movie, so I will install the rear 8-32 bolt tomorrow.  I am retired, and if I rush to complete a gun, I just have to start another.