? 4 D T SAPERGIA

[MScott]

Do you use Circa1850 tung oil full strength on first coat? Have you tried their1850 danish oil which is described as an oil/varnish? Thanks . Mark

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I've never cut the oil with anything - use it straight up.  I slather it on the bare wood - everywhere, for about five minutes, and then let it soak up for ten, then slather it on again and let it take up as much as it will.  After about fifteen minutes, I wipe off as much as I can with a dry cloth, and let it cure for 24 hours.  then it's one thin wipe every day for as long as I feel it needs to get the finish I want.  Sometimes, I cut it back with oooo steel wool, and apply a few more coats.  I find it to be one of the best waterproofers I've found, and gives a nice mellow finish.
I will look for Circa 1850 Danish Oil, on your suggestion.

[Feltwad]

You will find that a good oil finish does not come overnight it takes many months , some quicken the process buy using a dryer .
Feltwad

[smart dog]

Hi Mark,
I thin my first 2 coats of polymerized tung oil 50% with mineral spirits.  Then I proceed with unthinned oil just as Taylor described.  I did some testing on hard sugar maple and American black cherry, and found the thinned oil penetrated deeper into the wood.  I logically assume that is a good thing but perhaps it really does not matter with repect to sealing the wood.  Anyway, it probably does not hurt.  I use Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil.

dave 

[Dphariss]

You will find that a good oil finish does not come overnight it takes many months , some quicken the process buy using a dryer .
Feltwad

Depends on the oil being used, the wood species, the surface preparation and the eye of the beholder.

Dan

[Dphariss]

Thinning a natural oil with perhaps as much as 25% real turpentine that has been aged, exposed to the air in a shallow pan for a few days, will increase penetration, add some resin to the oil and decrease dying time. Too much may not allow the oil to penetrate properly.
I do not consider mineral spirits a good idea they add nothing to . They are added to modern finishes as a cheap thinner the evaporates away faster. Its also toxic with inhaled.
Since I usually use a pretty heavy oil I thin the seal coat, once this is done thinning is a wasted effort and simply increases the time needed to finish a stock.
Dan

[Daryl]

I use Circa 1850 Tung Oil. I have used Circa 1850 Danish Oil (with tung oil) and see little if any difference. Maybe I'm blind. These are fairly thin oils and take longer to build a finish than some others, like True Oil, but seem more water and wear proof.

[armsmaker]

Daryl, the restorator at the Norwegian Military Museum told me to try adding Danish Oil to the Tung oil with a slight dose of pure boiled linseed oil. I've been doing that since for years. My main problem used to be the build up in the carving from the modern finishes. This Norgegian mix seems to be wonderful giving time for the oil to penetrate and pop curl while giving plenty of time to use a toothbrush to clean out the carving if necessary. Have you ever tried something like this?

[Mark Elliott]

I have been using an equal mix of Danish oil, tung oil, and BLO for a long time without any complaints.   I also add Japan drier.   It builds up fairly quick.   Once I get a semi-gloss finish with it, which mean there is too much oil applied, I rub back to a satin finish with a white Scottbrite pad.  I am going to try Tried 'n' True on the next rifle.   

[Daryl]

Haven't gone to mixing stock oils, but did, for a time, use Pumice to rub back a finish from gloss (Linspeed or True Oil) to a matt finish - looked & felt great.