OK to tip the lock slightly?

[ShutEyeHunter]

Re-locking and re barreling an old rifle.  Existing lock is too far gone to repair. (No half cock notch--must have bought it at the old time equivalent of Walmart.  The list goes on from there...)

I'm fitting the metal to the stock instead of the usual stock to metal.  I want to keep it original but still be able to shoot it.

The Davis Goulcher lock was a drop in fit.  Problem is that the side panels aren't square to the top flat of the barrel.

The bolster ends up parallel to the barrel flat fore and aft but tipped in the up-down direction

Seems like all I need to do is add some steel to the bolster (silver solder or MIG) and fit it to the side flat.

Figure I'd need to bend the hammer and maybe the sear extension.

You guys have been have kept me from making a number of design mistakes.

What can go wrong with this idea?

[Mark Elliott]

We need some pics, but I would hazard to guess from what you have said that the rifle and lock didn't start life together.    If it is an original rifle with a flint,  you can bet the lock is not original to the rifle, having no other information.  

[ShutEyeHunter]

It was probably flint about 1835.  Looks like a full stock version of a Vincent Ohio rifle.  Was built about 50 miles upstream from their shop

At least I think it was flint--Two screw lock holes and more erosion of the barrel and stock than I'd think you'd get with percussion

Converted badly to percussion with a really cheap second lock.

I have stock taped and clamped to repair some large cracks in the ramrod channel, so can't easily take pics today.  If it's helpful I'll take some next week.

[ShutEyeHunter]

In lieu of pics...

Should have mentioned that I'd be adding about 1/32" or less at the bottom of the bolster. None at the top

[JTR]

With something like this, pictures would be helpful.

Also, I'll think you'll find there is a lot more erosion to wood and steel with a percussion, than with a flint. If it was ever flint, you should find a small cut out area in the wood between what would be the shoulder of the flint cock and the side of the barrel tang.

John

[ShutEyeHunter]

Thanks!

Question on hold until I can take some pics. I'll look up the in letting you mention in Shumway etc.

[smallpatch]

Are you positive that none of the internals are keeping the lock from sitting square?
To answer your question, NO, it's not ok to tip the lock. It can't possi be properly supported without full contact, or line up with the nipple properly.

[Dennis Glazener]

What about filing/milling the top of the bolster instead of adding a 1/32 on the bottom?  Most old lock bolsters were thinner than modern locks that are thicker in order to clear today's cast main springs.

Check closely to see if the main spring on the new lock is hitting the bottom of the mortise or barrel.
Dennis

[ShutEyeHunter]

What about filing/milling the top of the bolster instead of adding a 1/32 on the bottom?  Most old lock bolsters were thinner than modern locks that are thicker in order to clear today's cast main springs.

Check closely to see if the main spring on the new lock is hitting the bottom of the mortise or barrel.
Dennis

Good idea on filing the bolster.  I'll make some measurements. Probably going to have to bend the hammer to get the nipple in the right spot on the drum anyway, so that will save time vs. adding material.

I'm 99% sure that the lock internals aren't touching-I'm using in letting dye (gold). I did have to remove a 1/64th here and there, particularly around the mainspring.

The problem is ( which I probably didn't describe well) is that when the lock is set in the side panel so it looks right, it's not perpendicular the the top barrel flat--or another way of saying it--doesn't sit perfectly on the side flat.  It's tipped at an angle to vertical.

So my choices were ( I thought) to either inlet the lock deeper at the bottom or modify the angle on the bolster so it sits flat on the side flat.

Trying to avoid any more stock mods than I have to so I don't have to match finish. Would be a problem if I had to pare down the side panel moulding for a deeper inlet.

Thanks for all the replies!