Lock plate bolts

[theodoredante]

First off, I am new to this site and gun building also.(first one) My question is, does the lock plate need two bolts to secure the lock? My small problem is that I got an Isaac Haynes Lancaster kit from TOW with a preinlet stock and I missed the web drilling the front lock plate hole, hence the ramrod will not seat all the way into the stock, I can live with that but would rather not. Thanks, you guys seem like a good bunch with a whole lot of knowledge.

[KentSmith]

Several options - you can thin down the middle of the front lock screw by placing the screw in a drill and filing as it turns.  This may give you enough clearance to let the ramrod pass.  But if it works you must remove the ramrod to remove the bolt.  Also I've seen a fake bolt used so that only the rear bolt holds the lock in place.  Or you can get a dowel the same size as the hole and epoxy in the hole - dowel should be short enough not to project into the ramrod hole.  Last is a problem if you have already drilled the sideplate.

[David Rase]

Depending on how much your lock bolt pertrudes into the ramrod hole you can also taper the ramrod.  If you are using a 3/8" ramrod you can easily taper the portion that fits into the forestock to 5/16" and gain additional clearance.  I always taper my ramrods regardless.  Tapering the ramrod,  thinning the lock bolt or a combination of both might give you the clearance you need.
DMR

[Benedict]

On my current build, I had a similar problem and was able to move the hole in the wood up with a chain saw file and needle files.  I had not drilled the lock plate or made the side plate so it was only the stock wood.  Just another option.  Depending on how much off the hole is, there will be several options with some good ones already  posted.

Bruce

[theodoredante]

Wow, you guys are quick with a response and good ones at that, I really appreciate the help, I think I'll try the combo. Thanks for the replies!

[theodoredante]

Oh and by the way, I already have the holes in the lock plate, Thanks again.

[Jerry V Lape]

depending on the space at the nose of the lockplate, you may be able to plug the existing hole with a tight fitting bolt, cut off the excess and finish the ends.  Then drill a new hole in unused space on the nose of the lock in a location which will allow you to move the bolt into the web eliminating the problem that way. 

Another way is to use a fake bolt on the sideplate and put a hook on the lock which locks behind a pin in the wood on the lock side of the gun. 

[Roger Fisher]

Your problem is a common occurence!  Your answers are already posted, except the first one.  Yes the rear bolt is all that is needed IF inlet for the lock is not wobbly.

Suggest you try fitting that frt bolt as suggested.  The bolt could also be thinned rounded in the center so you do or would not have to pull the rod to remove said bolt. Little pressure on that frt bolt so you can go fairly thin...! And taper the rod of course.!
So you can get more length when you get a patch stuck while cleaning the breech, fit and pin a female end on the big end and carry a jag in pouch (steel stud not ever brass) fairly long jags are available and save a headache possibly..

If she will be a looker rather than a shooter it doesn't matter.  But if she will be a shooter and a looker then these small thingees can keep your blood pressure in line!

[Karl Kunkel]

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt - welcome to the club.

All suggestions above will work, it may even require various combinations. 

I had such a problem with the front lock bolt on my first build, that I ended up pluging the stock holes with dowels, the lock plate with a bolt, and filed all smooth.  Then I tapered the ram rod, and reduced the front lock bolt to a 6-32.  Between the relocated hole, skinnier ramrod and smaller diameter bolt, I finally got the clearence needed.  I'm sure there was a simpler way, but that's the road I took.

It's been said in this forum before . . . the difference between good and great is not the mistake, but how it's corrected.
 

[Long John]

Theo,

Remember that you can fill the holes in the lock plate and side plate!  For the lock plate thread the hole. Then take an unplated steel screw of the proper thread size, flux it real good and screw it into the hole.  Now use a little tin-silver solder to solder it in place.  Now cut off the screw front and back. The hole is filled.  Peaning the filler with a small ball-pean hammer will swell the screw in the hole and the fix will be permanent.  You can use the same method for the side plate.  Whittle a small wooden dowel and glue it into the erroneously drilled hole through the stock.  Trim it iff nice and flush.

Now you can carefully locate your lock bolt hole.  Often times I try to get it high enough that I have to file a bit of a groove across the bottom flat of the barrel.  On a swamped octagon barrel there is plenty of steel near the breech so a 1/32" groove across the bottom flat is of no consequence.

We have all made this error.  that's why we all knwo how to fix it!

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[theodoredante]

Thanks to all who've replied. Well I tried to skinny up the bolt and taper the ramrod to no avail, so I ended up moving the hole in the lock plate back and up, luckily I hit the web perfect (now why could'nt that have happened in the first place, ha), I made a new side plate for it also. I'm going to solder in a bolt in the lock plate like John mentions to fill the first hole. Roger thanks for the "first" answer. Once again thanks to all.

[keweenaw]

If your old hole doesn't overlap with the new one there isn't any need to solder in your repair plug.  Just countersink the hole a bit on both sides, screw in the plug, preferably made of soft steel line a nail or a piece of 12L14 and peen both sides.  When trying to make a hole like this go away, I thread the stud enough to screw through the plate but leave the taper cut by the tap on the stud.  Screw it in from the outside using some vise grips until it won't go any farther.  The taper on the threads will more adequately fill the threads in the plate than will simply cutting off a threaded rod.  After peening dress it off and when you're done you won't be able to see it.

Tom

[theodoredante]

Thanks Tom, I like that route. I'm at the Fire station today so I'll give it a try tomorrow.

[Dphariss]

You need a ramrod hole scraper. By scraping it simply moves the hole down enough to give rod clearance.
Much more elegant that filling screw holes etc. Its in shop made tools.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=258.0

Dan