Author Topic: Staining a stock black  (Read 9079 times)

Offline David Rase

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Staining a stock black
« on: March 13, 2015, 06:09:48 PM »
I have a project that will be ready for finishing in the next couple of days.  The gun is stocked in a plain piece of hard maple with little to no curl.  I want to make this stock as dark as possible, almost black.  I have used aqua fortis in the past and with enough heat have successfully brought the wood to black or close to it.  I really don't like to heat up and dry out a stock that much to get it to turn black.
I am looking for other methods from you guys to take a maple stock past brown to black or almost black.
David 

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2015, 06:43:00 PM »
Ebonizing.  Tannic acid followed by iron nitrate.  Repeat.  Google "ebonizing and popular woodworking" and I think you'll find a decent article on the subject.  One of my blog posts talks about this as well.

Offline Robby

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2015, 06:47:52 PM »
Another option, though I like Jim's better.
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Robby
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Offline Daniel

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2015, 06:52:12 PM »
 I have used Tandy leather dye. Not the water based though.
Daniel     Ecc.4:12

kaintuck

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2015, 07:41:46 PM »
LEATHER DYE...... ;D
test on a small space 1st tho.....and I use a small rag to apply~ works wonders to 'age' plain cherry~~~~

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Offline WadePatton

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2015, 07:56:46 PM »
Ebonizing.  Tannic acid followed by iron nitrate.  Repeat.  Google "ebonizing and popular woodworking" and I think you'll find a decent article on the subject.  One of my blog posts talks about this as well.

This is the method i would try.  The leather dyes fade-and you don't want a stock getting lighter as it ages...well I don't.
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Offline LRB

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2015, 08:12:19 PM »
 While it is usually true that leather dyes fade, all black dyes and paints are made using carbon black. Carbon black dyes or paints do not fade. That said, I would try Jim Kiblers method first. Depends on how black you want. You will not get any blacker than Fiebings USMC black leather dye. May be too black.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2015, 08:15:09 PM by LRB »

Offline smart dog

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2015, 09:08:04 PM »
Hi David,
Jim Kibler's method works well and will not fade over time.  Depending on the wood and darkness you desire, you may need to repeat the procedure more than once.

dave
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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2015, 09:19:20 PM »
Logwood?

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2015, 09:20:55 PM »
Ebonize it, in my experience few leather dyes are sunlight resistant when applied to wood.

         Hungry Horse

Offline David Rase

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2015, 09:30:20 PM »
Thanks for the replies.  Thank you Jim.  I just read the Popular Woodworking article and decided to give the ebonizing a try.  Ordered me a half pound of quebracho powder to make the tannic bark tea and will wash up some steel wool and get it soaking in some home made vinegar I acquired from Steve Vance.  Looking forward to experimenting and checking out the results. 
David
Rest assured, I have no desire to use leather dye.  It just does not look right to me, regardless of whether it fades or not.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2015, 09:50:40 PM by David Rase »

Offline WadePatton

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2015, 12:33:17 AM »
Logwood?
Technically speaking (not), it's a close cousin to Treewood and in shorter specimens is commonly known as Firewood.
 ;D

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Offline Clark Badgett

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2015, 12:54:02 AM »
Logwood is very fade prone, at least in cloth. It will turn tan in a few weeks of exposure.
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Offline Gaeckle

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2015, 06:51:12 AM »
I was asked to darken a Pederosoli Brown Bess that had 'European hardwood", basically a birch. I used aqua fortis, followed up with black oil artist paint that I rubbed into the stock by hand. I let it set for a week, applied dark brown leather dye to take the edge off the harshness of the black (it helped reduce the opaqueness of the paint). I then rubbed back certain areas to give an aged appearence and oiled it up. It looks like old black walnut.

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2015, 08:04:48 AM »
 ;D
While it is usually true that leather dyes fade, all black dyes and paints are made using carbon black. Carbon black dyes or paints do not fade. That said, I would try Jim Kiblers method first. Depends on how black you want. You will not get any blacker than Fiebings USMC black leather dye. May be too black.
Blacker than a bruised crow,maybe? ;D

Bob Roller

Offline littlefat

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2015, 02:24:23 PM »
I used dark blue Ink on a Les Paul knock off  guitar kit for my son. It was dark but still transparent enough to see some grain.  black ink might work. never used it on a rifle

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2015, 02:33:56 PM »
I used dark blue Ink on a Les Paul knock off  guitar kit for my son. It was dark but still transparent enough to see some grain.  black ink might work. never used it on a rifle

Tom Dawson used India ink to create a mineral streak in a copy of the Medina/Modena Hawken
 and it looked good.

Bob Roller

Offline Osprey

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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2015, 07:12:14 PM »
Laurel Mt Forge makes an ebony, alocohol based stain in that line, pretty darn black.  I've been using it a lot lately as a first coat, then sanding back before the color stain to make the dark curl have higher contrast.  I remember reading a tip in Muzzleblasts about roofing tar soaked in kerosene to do the same thing.
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Re: Staining a stock black
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2015, 07:50:01 PM »
Ebonizing.  Tannic acid followed by iron nitrate.  Repeat.  Google "ebonizing and popular woodworking" and I think you'll find a decent article on the subject.  One of my blog posts talks about this as well.

Thanks for the info Jim.  My first "CC class" rifle has a straight-grain maple stock and I also want to get a "past brown to black or almost black" stain like Dave is looking for.  Read the article and the blog and ordered some Quebracho Powder for myself.  :)