Author Topic: How to Make a Stirrup? (Read 7888 times)

gwill · « **on:** March 14, 2015, 04:23:43 PM »

I just realized I have a problem that others have encountered in the past with my L&R Durs Egg lock. The stirrup extends below the bottom of the plate. I've read from past posts that the recommended fix is to make a new shorter stirrup. Is that the best approach - and if so any suggestions on how to do this?

I also plan to contact L&R but wanted to find out if this was an easy fix since I've modified my lock plate and it's already inlet into the blank. Thanks in advance for any help.

Robby · « **Reply #1 on:** March 14, 2015, 04:51:22 PM »

One easy quick fix would be to solder a shim piece onto the cock's shoulder stop. That kind of thing is frustrating and shouldn't happen. nuff said!!
Robby

Dave B · « **Reply #2 on:** March 14, 2015, 05:13:12 PM »

Just as Robby has pointed out the shimming of the Cock shoulder would do it. I believe additional shimming of the tumbler at the point of contact at the top bridle bolster to take some of the strain off the neck of the cock.

gwill · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2015, 06:17:33 PM »

Thank you Robby and Dave. You nailed it. Problem solved.

Jerry V Lape · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:14:10 PM »

Why not contact L&R and see if they will fix it.

gwill · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2015, 07:54:04 PM »

Good question Jerry. I sent L&R an email this morning and I'm sure they'll respond next week. However the fix turned out to be simple enough that I could handle it.

I hope no one thought I was complaining about L&R as that wasn't my intent. I bought this lock from a forum member and it throws a ton of sparks. Just needed a tweak. Now that it's fixed it's being inlet into a walnut stocked southern mountain rifle today!

Gaeckle · « **Reply #6 on:** March 15, 2015, 03:20:34 AM »

Quote from: Jerry V Lape on March 14, 2015, 07:14:10 PM

Why not contact L&R and see if they will fix it.

L&R should be aware of this before having the end user references the issue.....they most likely are aware of the problem.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #7 on:** March 15, 2015, 04:59:03 AM »

I realize you solved the problem with a shim but to answer your first question, I drill with the correct size wire drill 2 holes the appropriate distance apart in a piece of flat stock then cut 2 pieces of drill rod for the stirrup axles. I harden and temper them and then soft solder them in place. then I cut the piece from the parent flat stock and file to shape.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #8 on:** March 15, 2015, 06:55:13 AM »

A new stirrup's gotta be made from solid, because no solder will take the strain that will be on the pins, especially soft solder.

Ky-Flinter · « **Reply #9 on:** March 15, 2015, 08:16:35 AM »

Tom,

Unless I'm missing something the spring tension is pulling the pins against the flat stock. The solder would just be to keep the pins from sliding out of their holes.

-Ron

Bob Roller · « **Reply #10 on:** March 15, 2015, 02:05:35 PM »

Quote from: Acer Saccharum on March 15, 2015, 06:55:13 AM

A new stirrup's gotta be made from solid, because no solder will take the strain that will be on the pins, especially soft solder.

The half lap stirrup is a trick to make even with years of experiences and a good
milling machine.I don't use them on new locks because they take too much time
to make and there is another option available.
Also,I am surprised that a lock with such a noticeable error would be shipped to
a customer.
Bob Roller

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #11 on:** March 16, 2015, 04:32:26 AM »

Ron, that is what I say. The mechanical joint of the pin through the transverse hole would work as long as it's under spring tension. I soft solder so the pins don't fall out when you disassemble the lock. The last one I made I made with a pin for the bottom for the spring hook and I made the tumbler arm with a through hole slotted for the stirrup flat stock and made a little screw / pin that threads into the outside of the tumbler arm only with the pin through the stirrup and into a corresponding hole in back side of tumbler arm.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #12 on:** March 16, 2015, 04:43:49 AM »

Here is a picture. Here is how I did it but I don't pretend to be a lock maker, I just muddle along trying to learn as I go. I would take Mr. Roller's word on anything in this line.

jerrywh · « **Reply #13 on:** March 16, 2015, 04:52:13 AM »

I did the same thing except I made a screw that came through from the back side.
The head was countersunk. Mans gotta do what a mans gotta do.

Dphariss · « **Reply #14 on:** March 16, 2015, 04:54:20 AM »

The mainspring may be a little too far forward. Would really look at the lock but it might be fixed by moving the mainspring pin hole back .050 or so. But would have to really look at the lock to be sure.
http://www.cablesfarm.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/lock-inside-original.jpg

Note the angle of the link and the location of the mainspring "hooks" in relation to the pin in the tumbler arm.

I would have the cock TIG or Mig welded if I were going add metal to stock the cock higher.
Dan

Bob Roller · « **Reply #15 on:** March 16, 2015, 06:30:06 AM »

Quote from: David R. on March 16, 2015, 04:43:49 AM

Here is a picture. Here is how I did it but I don't pretend to be a lock maker, I just muddle along trying to learn as I go. I would take Mr. Roller's word on anything in this line.

This lock looks very useable and you did well on it.

Bob Roller

gwill · « **Reply #16 on:** March 22, 2015, 08:08:23 PM »

I wanted to give you an update on my lock. As mentioned in my original post I contacted L&R (by email) last weekend. They replied promptly on Monday morning and offered to fix my lock. I was a little nervous since I had modified the lock plate before inletting it into the stock and it is a "snap fit" in the inlet. However Tim assured me they would get my lock plate back to me. I shipped it out on Tuesday and had it back in my hands fixed on Saturday. That's a 5 day turnaround. The lock now has a new spring and the stirrup is now well inside of the lock plate - much better than I had been able to achieve. Unbelievable customer service considering I had bought the lock here on the forum. I am very grateful for the service L&R provided. This was a warranty repair so there was no charge to me.

Robby · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2015, 11:47:20 PM »

Glad it worked out for you will!!!!
Robby

WadePatton · « **Reply #18 on:** March 23, 2015, 08:49:21 AM »

Quote from: gwill on March 22, 2015, 08:08:23 PM

I wanted to give you an update on my lock. As mentioned in my original post I contacted L&R (by email) last weekend. They replied promptly on Monday morning and offered to fix my lock. I was a little nervous since I had modified the lock plate before inletting it into the stock and it is a "snap fit" in the inlet. However Tim assured me they would get my lock plate back to me. I shipped it out on Tuesday and had it back in my hands fixed on Saturday. That's a 5 day turnaround. The lock now has a new spring and the stirrup is now well inside of the lock plate - much better than I had been able to achieve. Unbelievable customer service considering I had bought the lock here on the forum. I am very grateful for the service L&R provided. This was a warranty repair so there was no charge to me.

And that's how small bidness is done!

good deal.

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Author Topic: How to Make a Stirrup? (Read 7888 times)