Lehigh Valley Lube

[bones92]

Track of the Wolf has Lehigh Valley Lube, about $10 per 8 oz bottle. I ordered a couple, which will probably last me the rest of my days, given how little I get to shoot.

I'm new to this forum, but I've seen others here lament the cessation of LVL availability a few years ago.  So I figured some of you might be glad to hear it's available again.

[leadslinger62]

  Just happened to see that while browsing TOW Website. Also ordered two Bottles. Sure hope it is the same Formula. 

[leadslinger62]

 Received My Two bottle of LeHigh today. Sure does smell like the original stuff! Hope it works the same....

[billd]

Who is making it?

[Longone]

Lestom Labs.

Longone

[bones92]

I got two bottles in the mail.  I'm guessing that should last me a long while.  I'll probably use it more for patch lubricant than as bore cleaner, given that there are other (less expensive) oils for cleaning and protecting the bore.

[loneranger44]

I did some searching around and it looks like the original inventor of LVL is back! I found a website http://www.lehighvalleylube.com/ and it says that it is Tom bringing it back. I am going to have to look into ordering myself some!

[acorn20]

You fellows must have missed the first post under this heading..."Patch Lube News From The Grapevine."

[The Goose]

I just got 2 bottles from TOW. Is it better to soak the patch in it ahead of time or just spritz the patch at the time of use?

[jamesthomas]

 I spray my liquid lubes on the patch just before I load my rifle. If you pre-soak your patches you will need to put them in a leak proof container or you will have a mess in your shooting bag or box.

[Daryl]

I spray my liquid lubes on the patch just before I load my rifle. If you pre-soak your patches you will need to put them in a leak proof container or you will have a mess in your shooting bag or box.

We use a Sucrets or other make of lozenge tin. I burn off the paint, however grinding itoff with a wire wheel will allow the tin to go longer before it gets too rusty inside to use.

 Even if cared for, a few years, they'll have to be replaced due to rust if you also use them with water based lubes like the WWWF and oil.

[Nit Wit]

 Since I am a veteran I will Stick with Mr. Flintlocks lube, Google Mr. flintlock lube
 and then google Tom Decare .
George is honorable.
Nit Wit

[FDR]

I spray my liquid lubes on the patch just before I load my rifle. If you pre-soak your patches you will need to put them in a leak proof container or you will have a mess in your shooting bag or box.

We use a Sucrets or other make of lozenge tin. I burn off the paint, however grinding itoff with a wire wheel will allow the tin to go longer before it gets too rusty inside to use.

 Even if cared for, a few years, they'll have to be replaced due to rust if you also use them with water based lubes like the WWWF and oil.

Coat the tin with Tung Oil inside and out and let it dry before using it.  Should help with the rust!

[Vomitus]

   I wish I had a gallon of the Old Original! I have about 4 oz's left that I use as a tattletail when cleaning with cold water. When I think the barrel is cleaned, I run a soaked patch down with LHV. Then dry thoroughly and then shoot WD40 down the bore for 5 seconds. Then a clean patch and shove the rod down hard to make sure there's no moisture in the vent and liner.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Your patch must be soaked through and through, no matter what lube you use.  A spritz on the surface is inadequate.  The lube's job is to dissolve ALL of the fouling left in your barrel, right to the bottom of the grooves, every time you load.  If you leave fouling in the bore, you will eventually have to clean it in order to load again...completely unacceptable.  IMMHO!

[Daryl]

Your patch must be soaked through and through, no matter what lube you use.  A spritz on the surface is inadequate.  The lube's job is to dissolve ALL of the fouling left in your barrel, right to the bottom of the grooves, every time you load.  If you leave fouling in the bore, you will eventually have to clean it in order to load again...completely unacceptable.  IMMHO!

Well stated Taylor - however, if you wanted to lube right before shooting, then saturate the patch by spritzing long enough to do this and you have a well lubed patch. Of course, if you wipe every shot and shoot thumb-pressed-in loads that barely touch the tops of the lands, we cannot help you - you might as well use dry patches or just lick them & save your money, no lube is going to help your shooting.

TKS FDR - I'll try that. 

Too - air-rifle pellet tins make good patch containers for the pouch. Some simply slide on and the Crossman type have screw lids.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I put all the patches I'm likely to use in one outing into a candy, lozenge, or Sucrets tin, and pour in lube until all the patches are soaked, and there's lube floating on top.  Then I pour off all the excess back into the bottle and squeeze gently on the wad of patches to get out any lube that is going to exit the tin.  Still, some comes out of the tin into the bottom of my bag, but that doesn't bother me at all.  A patch should squirt juice onto you and your buddies when you start your ball.  Again, just my way of doing it.

[Daryl]

It can be a bit disconcerting when he's spit patching it. SPRAYYYYYYY People learn quickly not to stand too closely - lol.

[teakmtn]

Taylor, I have converted to the wet patch system and do exactly the way you described. However I use Hoppes black powder solvent/lube. How does this product compare to Lehigh Valley or Mr. Flintlock? Actually, anybody may answer.

Doug T.

[Daryl]

I don't know that Taylor has used that as of late. A few years ago, I had a new bottle of Hoppe's #9 PLUS which shot with the same accuracy as LHV- and like LHV I had to increase my load to obtain the accuracy I enjoyed with a water based lube.
The new Hoppe's BP Solvent/lube should be the same as the old #9 Plus - however I do not know that it is.
The VERY bet thing for you to do, is to shoot both and use the one you like best, or rather, whichever one shoots best in your rifle. Do not be reluctant to adjust the powder charge up or down when experimenting.
Slippery lube usually demand MORE powder to shoot the same. My .32 - wants 5gr. more. My .40 and .45 both want/demand 10gr. more. My 14 bore does not care - shooting identically with both with the same loads.

[Mad Monk]

Since I am a veteran I will Stick with Mr. Flintlocks lube, Google Mr. flintlock lube
 and then google Tom Decare .
George is honorable.
Nit Wit

Your source in Google claiming that Tom DeCare is a phony soldier is total and utter nonsense.  The guy running that web site can't get his information straight.  Some was in the army twice.  His first time before I ran into him at the Gunmakers Fair before he developed his lube.  If he was never in the service one might ask how he collects a military disability.  Or his position in the local VFW where he lives.  Before you go after somebody's character you might want to check your sources.  I have known Tom since the mid-1980s.

Mad Monk

[Scout]

Taylor, I have converted to the wet patch system and do exactly the way you described. However I use Hoppes black powder solvent/lube. How does this product compare to Lehigh Valley or Mr. Flintlock? Actually, anybody may answer.

Doug T.

Hoppes #9 Plus is all I use now. It was suggested on this forum and after going thru many of the home made recipes and other products of somewhat reputable fame, I tried the Hoppes #9 Plus and have never looked back. The key is as others stated is to use a WET patch to dissolve fouling when loading to insure an easier/less fouled barrel to load the next time around.

As far as Mr. Flintlocks and the Lehigh Valley stuff, I have yet to try. I can't really see how much better it can be than the Hoppes Plus. As a curious person with an open mind as far as improving my shooting goes I'm sure at some point I will try it just to see what all the hoopla is about. 

[Daryl]

Scout- you should try them- and adjust the powder charge up and down from where you are for an accuracy check - off a rest, on paper. The results will show what is best in your rifle and what load.  Without shooting actual groups, you just do not know whether misses are your fault or the load's fault. (0f course, at times you make a huge flub and you KNOW why you missed)

[Scout]

Scout- you should try them- and adjust the powder charge up and down from where you are for an accuracy check - off a rest, on paper. The results will show what is best in your rifle and what load.  Without shooting actual groups, you just do not know whether misses are your fault or the load's fault. (0f course, at times you make a huge flub and you KNOW why you missed)

You are right Daryl, I will try them both at the range under controlled conditions along with the Hoppes. It will give me yet another reason to get out of the house for a day or two !!!