Cant get double set triggers to work on CVA Hawken Kit gun.

[cowboys1062]

 A while back ago I bought a partial complete CVA Hawken Kit on GB for $36.00. Most all the parts were there and I ordered anything else I didnt have from Deer Creek. I finished up the barrel and did the wood work and the Brass and it came together real nice. Fit and finish a nice looking little 50 Cal. Hawken real cheap. Now the Problems..........The Hammer wont stay cocked or half cocked. I adjusted the screw between the trigger and set trigger. That didnt help. I then notice a small alan head screw behind the set trigger on the trigger bar. I started to adjust that and was able to get the rifle to cock and half cock and fire using the front trigger only! I then took the triggers out to see if they would function properly out of the rifle. I still couldnt get the set trigger to work and while messing with it, the thin wire trigger spring went flying across the room. I looked everywhere for it and could not find it, so I gave up looking for it. I then ordered a new Trigger Mech. from Deer Creek and it will be here Monday. I need help in making everything work and function properly. What steps do I need to take to make sure the hammer cocks on half cock and full cock and that both triggers fire , set or unset. I dont have alot invested in this rifle but I sure would like to fix it and put some PRB down range with her. Any suggestions, advice, or comments would greatly be appreciated. I need help! Respectfully, cowboys1062

[whitebear]

Look on the inside of the lock at the tumbler, there should be a screw in the tumbler that adjust the amount of sear engagement in the half and full cock notches.  If this is screwed too far down it will prevent the sear engaging in the notches in the tumbler.  Back the screw out some and see what happens you may have to do this a couple of times to get the correct adjustment.

[Captchee]

A few things you might look for .
  With the  lock  out , does it work . If no then look to what whitebear mentioned .
 If yes then  place the lock back in the stock  and screw the block bolts in/down . don’t over tighten .
 Does the lock work . If yes then it’s  probably the triggers . If no then your sear hole needs to be opened up or possibly depends . Take the lock out , use a inletting black or some type of transfer color  and coat the sear . This will tell you where wood needs to be removed .

I find ,CVA trigger sets are kind of an odd duck . They are tall , easily come out of adjustment . The front trigger is also often held under tension by a spring that’s little more then what  seems at times to be a paper clip thats held in by  a crimped hole  in the trigger plate .. A good upgrade is to replace it with a small piano wire spring .
Without that spring the front trigger will not hold the set trigger down .

 The small screw between the trigger adjusts the engagement between the two triggers .
   The rear screw that your talking about is a main spring adjustment .  This reduces the amount of pressure the  trigger main spring can apply to the rear trigger .
 Basically it’s  a simple interrupter that blocks the spring from its full movement .
 The farther you screw it in  the less upward force is applied to the rear trigger .  Thus if the trigger set is inlet to deep , the sear spring cannot over come that pressure and the trigger hold the sear away from the tumbler . IE not ½ or full cock ..
BUT by reducing the trigger main spring pressure , the sear spring can  work  or just start to work . But you can reach a point where the trigger adjustment has went to the point  that there is not enough force to  pop the sear from the full cock notch  or in the case of the from screw , been adjusted so deep that the two triggers cannot engage each other 

 Some things to look for
a) triggers set to deep  and blocking the sear .  Ship the trigger plate lower or  file the top of the triggers down alittle to get clearance for the sear
b) Trigger inlet not  allowing that front wire spring the freedom of movement it needs
c) adjustment  : back the adjustment screws out tell you get full engagement. Then slowly turn them back in in ¼ to ½ turn increments  tell you achieve the desired results ..
d)  sear catching on lock inlet .

 i think you will probbaly find it  eather a or b to be the case

 

 



 

[cowboys1062]

 I will be getting the new trigger mech. in the mail tomorrow from Deer Creek. I will do my best to remember and try what you all have advised. I hope I can figure it all out. The advice that you all gave me is good advice and should fix my problem. Im just worried because Im mechanically challenged at best. I will read this post over and then probably over again. I will do my best and cross my fingers and hope I do all the right things. Thankyou all for the input. I will keep you adviced on the out come. cowboys1062

[mark esterly]

magnets are good for finding lost screws and springs. 

[Bob Roller]

A while back ago I bought a partial complete CVA Hawken Kit on GB for $36.00. Most all the parts were there and I ordered anything else I didnt have from Deer Creek. I finished up the barrel and did the wood work and the Brass and it came together real nice. Fit and finish a nice looking little 50 Cal. Hawken real cheap. Now the Problems..........The Hammer wont stay cocked or half cocked. I adjusted the screw between the trigger and set trigger. That didnt help. I then notice a small alan head screw behind the set trigger on the trigger bar. I started to adjust that and was able to get the rifle to cock and half cock and fire using the front trigger only! I then took the triggers out to see if they would function properly out of the rifle. I still couldnt get the set trigger to work and while messing with it, the thin wire trigger spring went flying across the room. I looked everywhere for it and could not find it, so I gave up looking for it. I then ordered a new Trigger Mech. from Deer Creek and it will be here Monday. I need help in making everything work and function properly. What steps do I need to take to make sure the hammer cocks on half cock and full cock and that both triggers fire , set or unset. I dont have alot invested in this rifle but I sure would like to fix it and put some PRB down range with her. Any suggestions, advice, or comments would greatly be appreciated. I need help! Respectfully, cowboys1062

It sounds like you found a mainspring tension screw that adjusts tension on the rear trigger only.
IF you adjusted it by turning it in too far then the rear triggers impact on the sear will be reduced or
negated entirely so the front trigger will be the only way to fire the lock.Several years ago I was in
a gun shop that had a new Sharps 1874 with this problem and the dealer was going to return it to
the distributor and I told her that I could fix it in about 30 seconds with a small screw driver.I showed
her and an employee about this rear trigger spring tension screw and fixed the Sharps. Your CVA has
the same problem.Check the new triggers as well as the old one and make sure there is a little slack
in the rear trigger.It should "float" a little and when striking the sear,it should drop back away so
the lock can be cocked without setting the trigger.

Bob Roller

[cowboys1062]

 I got the new trigger mech. from Deer Creek on Monday. I cleaned and oiled them up and installed them into the muzzleloader. It half cocks and full cocks the way it should. The triggers fire set and unset the way they should. Everything is working just fine. I didnt have to make any adjustments at all. It feels great when everything comes together the way it should! Thank all of you for your replies and advice. It was very helpful and a learning experience for me. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

[Pete G.]

Glad to see that you worked out the problem. Now compare the new trigger assembly to the old to find the differences. You a have a learning opportunity here.