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mortise and tenon semi takedown bench

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rich pierce:
I love Tom Caster's work bench in the Shop Tools section and hope to copy it with modifications.  I'd like to use traditional methods of joinery and yet make it possible to take it down later.  In other words no bolts or pinned mortise and tenon joints, but more solid than a true portable bench.

I roughed out a bench top of red oak, 12" x 4" thick x 4' long.
I roughed out 2 "legs" that are 12" wide x 2.5" thick x 42" tall.
I would use a stringer or shelf to stabilize it.

I was thinking of using 2 "rabbit ear" tenons on the legs that would come all the way through the top of the bench, stick up an additional 2" and be fastened by wedges

Kinda like this but I never took drawing.

rich pierce:
I love Tom Caster's work bench in the Shop Tools section and hope to copy it with modifications.  I'd like to use traditional methods of joinery and yet make it possible to take it down later.  In other words no bolts or pinned mortise and tenon joints, but more solid than a true portable bench.

I roughed out a bench top of red oak, 12" x 4" thick x 4' long.  This is HEAVY, mister.
I roughed out 2 "legs" that are 12" wide x 2.5" thick x 42" tall.
I would use a stringer or shelf to stabilize it.

I was thinking of using 2 "rabbit ear" tenons on the legs that would come all the way through the top of the bench, stick up an additional 2" and be fastened by wedges

Kinda like this but I never took drawing.  Do you have other suggestions?  Am I much better off making it permanent by using true mortise and tenon and trunnel construction?  This is a green wood project.

t.caster:
Can't wait for your drawing to arrive, and you are modifying it already.
Maybe I'll have to make up a second drawing as suggested. What I would do (maybe) is something different than the two tennons to hold the top on. These might break easily. I would take another piece similar to your shelf and mount it vertically (on edge) up under the top, attach it to the top permanantly however you want. Now cut a mortice through the legs near the top and fix with wedges, like the shelf is. Make any sense? I need to think this out in my head a little more.
I like your idea of having it break down...so you can take it to Dixon's & set up there, or any other show for that matter. We did that in the past, but it takes awhile to bolt it all together and take apart, this might be quicker.
I have built a number of tables and benches, even a water keg stand with this joinery and you are constantly tapping the wedges to keep them tight and stop the wobblies! So I am not sure how good it would be for a workbench...good design and fit is always crucial!

Brian:
Your idea should work fine Rich.

I like the basic concept as well, and in fact got a copy of the plans and then made some modifications of my own to better suit my intentions.

The only "issue" I still have is with it's stability.  It's not very wide, even at the base, so it's going to be "tippy".  If you were doing any serious work on it (sawing, heavy rasping, etc) I am a bit concerned about it moving around a lot or even falling over.  Any movement at all is not going to be conducive to good cuts.   I"m thinking about making the base larger and detachable (for storage), and possibly even come up with some way to "lock" it into the floor when in use.  Bolts and drop pins - something like that?

Dunno - still working on the idea.  I love the basic idea of the bench though.

t.caster:
Rich, see my comments to this in the "shop tools" section.
Did you know this topic is posted twice?

Brian, maybe you need some outriggers! ;D  Yeah I can get it to rock sometimes, but not that often, so MOST (95%) the time it's not a problem. Of course I used rough sawn oak and it must weigh 80-100 lbs.

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