Trim Router?

[WKevinD]

I have been using a trim router to inlet locks with Roto-Zip bits. Any thoughts on using these? Aside from not being historically correct any negatives. I don't know if this is a "general practice".After outlining and cutting the border I typically install plate then piece by piece and finish fit with my chisels.

[Pete G.]

Works fine until it gets away from you. One slip can ruin a stock in the blink of an eye.

[PPatch]

Personally I don't see any advantage in using a power tool for this, and like Pete says you do have the risk of zipping the heck out of your wood. Not telling you how to run your business however, for some I can understand that they might be comfortable using a power tool.

My technique is that once I determine where to position the lock (I'll know beforehand because I've drawn it), I simply hold the lock plate in place with finger pressure and exacto knife around it lightly being sure to hold the knife vertically. I then go around again using a bit more pressure. Next I chase around the inside of the exacto cut with a small V gouge staying about an eighth of an inch from the defining cut while using a small brass hammer to chase the gouge. Once that V gouge cut is done I use a very sharp 5mm wide #3 sweep to remove wood from the V up to the exacto cut. No hammer.

Further inletting of the lock plate goes pretty fast after that.

dave

[Mark Elliott]

I am not sure that is really any faster than what I do, which is the 18thC equivalent.   First off,  I finish the lock, including engraving and tuning, and inlet it whole.   I use a depth gauge(made by our very own David Crisalli)  and drill holes (with an 18th C brace and spur bits) to depth for the sear bar, all the screws, main spring, tumbler and bridle.   The rest is done with chisels.   Wallace Gusler once made fun of me for doing it this way, but it works for me.  I take it, he just uses a gouge, but he never actually showed me how he did it.  My problem with electric rotary tools (and I do use them for some things) is that they can get away from your very fast, and like someone else said, ruin a stock.     

If you wanted to do this the completely modern way, to perfection;  a numerically controlled router would be just the ticket.   

[T*O*F]

I've used em before and they work great.  Outline your lock plate and stamp it in.  Then back cut to your stamp line to remove wood all around, creating a gutter.  Set your Roto to 1/2 of plate depth and go in small circles removing wood.  Then back cut, gutter, and set to plate thickness and do it again.  Five minutes max.  Now you have to go by hand until your bolster hits the barrel.

1.  Keep your dust clear.
2.  When you hit your gutter, that last sliver of wood will pop free and you'll be within 1/4" of your edge.  Stop there.
3.  Always keep your platen tight against the side panel.  This can be tricky at the gap created by the bolster.
4.  Don't try to do the guts.  If you get the bit extended too far, it will snap off instantly.

[WKevinD]

I've used em before and they work great.  Outline your lock plate and stamp it in.  Then back cut to your stamp line to remove wood all around, creating a gutter.  Set your Roto to 1/2 of plate depth and go in small circles removing wood.  Then back cut, gutter, and set to plate thickness and do it again.  Five minutes max.  Now you have to go by hand until your bolster hits the barrel.

1.  Keep your dust clear.
2.  When you hit your gutter, that last sliver of wood will pop free and you'll be within 1/4" of your edge.  Stop there.
3.  Always keep your platen tight against the side panel.  This can be tricky at the gap created by the bolster.
4.  Don't try to do the guts.  If you get the bit extended too far, it will snap off instantly.

I usually inlet half the bolster to get the plate flat on the panel and then use a depth gauge (Dave C) to measure the bridel/tumbler depth then sear and spring and last the main spring the roto zip bits are cheap and I use a new one for each lock, I very cautious around the gutter (I use a foot control switch so I can shut off instantly).
I don't have much contact with other builders, except here, so I question my process and how it measures up to others. I like a clean inlet, especially at the lock where it is viewed every-time the gun is cleaned. My clean up and final fit is always with chisels/gouges, probably need that final fit because I'm too cautious with the power tool.
Mark- I'll have to try drilling the screw locations and mainspring with brace and bit and see how that works out slower always seems safer, I just need to see if ends up as clean. Thanks!

[KLMoors]

I did carpentry for a loooong time and am very comfortable with a router. I use a 1/4 diameter straight bit and cut all of the depth for the lock plate, and most of the depth for the guts, with the router. I cut the last 1/8 inch or so by hand and do all the final fitting by hand. The steps I use are pretty much as TOF stated.

Before I do any routing for the guts, I drill some holes to the proper depth for the various parts and use these as a guide as I start getting close to where I want to be.

[Scota4570]

Be careful to use bits that do not cut at light speed.  The ones that look like a rasp or the fine tooth carbide ones are better.  The ones that look like a little router bit are a disaster in the making.  

A milling machine works really well for inletting locks.  I bought a "knee mill"  It is about half the size of a regular bridgeport.  Made by INDEX, A model 40, it is a ca 1940 machine.  Lots of cast iron all around.   I use it a lot.  It is a mill, precision drill press, ultra precise wood router,  I can use a flycutter to thickness plain wood, spindle sander, on and on.  These old mills get no respect but can do a lot of useful work. If one can fit it in the shop they are well worth having.  They are cheap as most folks want CNC.  "We don't need no stinking CNC!"

[KentSmith]

I just use chisels and gouges.  Bolster first, then the plate then add in the guts.  Use a candle and soot.  Must be something wrong with me.  It's half the fun.  I guess if I was stocking a 30.06 I do it differently.  Doesn't make sense to me to use so many power tools but that's just me.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I have been using a trim router to inlet locks with Roto-Zip bits. Any thoughts on using these? Aside from not being historically correct any negatives. I don't know if this is a "general practice".After outlining and cutting the border I typically install plate then piece by piece and finish fit with my chisels.

Many years ago I made a router guide & template for my Dremel tool thinking it will save me time and do a great job to boot . Well it took only one try to convince me this was not a good idea along with buying a new stock and extra hours in re-doing all the barrel inletting and stock work on a new stock . Hammer & chisle is the way for me .

[KentSmith]

I have tried power tools and others are more skilled at that approach than I.  by the time the setup is complete and I have removed the wood, I could have inletted two locks, barrels, etc.  Takes me longer to set up than it does to hog it out.  Besides for me, that is part of the fun.

I realize that if Wm Antes had had a router he would probably have used it.  I do and I don't.  But then I am no Wm. Antes.