Author Topic: nose cap (Read 10845 times)

Rob · « **on:** July 07, 2015, 12:46:24 AM »

hi all , I am building a leman half stock and want to use a pewter nose cap but pewter is about as scarce as martian women here and more than a little expensive too the question is , is aluminium or stainless steel a suitable colour match for pewter

sz · « **Reply #1 on:** July 07, 2015, 12:50:05 AM »

"but pewter is about as scarce as martian women here "

So-----------where is "here"?

David Rase · « **Reply #2 on:** July 07, 2015, 12:50:46 AM »

Have you tried the Goodwill, garage sales or other second hand stores. I have found the best pewter by melting down old pewter steins, goblets and plates. Price is right also.
David

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #3 on:** July 07, 2015, 01:23:05 AM »

Check the local telephone directory to see if you have a pewter smith or someone that makes pewter products for sale. I have bought pewter from a local pewter smith off and on for years. She sells me re-cycled thin pewter disks at about 1/2 the going price. I haven't needed any for at least 2 or 3 years but I remember the last time or two the price had really gone up. Still buying enough for a nose cap or two shouldn't be too expensive.

Dennis

JoeG · « **Reply #4 on:** July 07, 2015, 01:29:21 AM »

50/50 solder lead /tin mix woks great, as you melt it add about a 1/4 more of straight tin solder . The extra tin it from becoming dull over time, I have been using this combination for 30 years on nose caps and knife bolsters. Pours great ,cheap an d and be found at any hardware store.

ken · « **Reply #5 on:** July 07, 2015, 02:28:50 AM »

the stuff is not that hard to find , Old cups and steins and the such. I have even used wheel weights in a pinch. and worked out pretty good. ken

Ryan McNabb · « **Reply #6 on:** July 07, 2015, 02:52:24 AM »

http://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-pewter-casting-metal-s/23.htm

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 07, 2015, 04:46:37 AM »

I've never poured a pewter nose cap but I'm facing that on the Gillespie I've just started. Is this stuff from Track of the Wolf any good? http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/801/1 I've long ago learned to take claims from Track of the Wolf with a grain of salt.

Mole Eyes

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #8 on:** July 07, 2015, 05:05:16 AM »

The 95-5 plumber's solder is very close to pewter. Cast it out of that....you can get it at Lowes' or on Mars.

retired fella · « **Reply #9 on:** July 07, 2015, 05:10:16 AM »

Acer ya' stole my thunder. Works great. Be sure to plug your ramrod hole just in case ya' get an oops and don't wear sandals.

Rob · « **Reply #10 on:** July 07, 2015, 10:25:25 AM »

thanks guys here is New Zealand for those who don't know that is in the south pacific about the only thing south of us is the south pole .. When you get here if you go any further you are on the way back .. You have to be very quick to get the pewter stuff at the marts etc is , because the cowboy action fans grab it to harden their bullets and there are a lot of those shooters after it Tin is also very expensive ..I went to the plumbers supply shop and asked if they had some yea he said how many sticks answer three , me I'll take them all , he then mentioned the price , when i recovered I opted for one , but the colour ( stainless or aluminium) match how about that

Turtle · « **Reply #11 on:** July 07, 2015, 03:00:58 PM »

I discovered that auto muffler cement works good bloc the cracks at the rear the molten metal runs out of. Ture

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #12 on:** July 07, 2015, 06:05:28 PM »

I use pure tin, most of the time. You can usually find a source from guys that cast their own bullets. But, I'm nothing if not frugal. So, when I found a pile of old lead free pewter flagons at the local recycler for cheap, I grabbed them up. Recycling centers are a great resource for all kinds of exotic metals. I also bought a pile af wrought iron grating, and wagon rims for scrap price to turn into wrought iron rifle furniture on the forge.

Hungry Horse

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 07, 2015, 06:16:46 PM »

Quote from: Turtle on July 07, 2015, 03:00:58 PM

I discovered that auto muffler cement works good bloc the cracks at the rear the molten metal runs out of. Ture

Don't you have trouble with the auto muffler cement sticking to the wood?

Mole Eyes

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #14 on:** July 07, 2015, 09:43:01 PM »

I use a section of cut off stock with the appropriate barrel cut into it, to cap the top of the barrel. I wrap it with file card material, tape it down with a wrap of duct tape, and plug any little gaps with regular modeling clay. If your metal leaks where the modeling clay is, you are overheating your metal.

Hungry Horse

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #15 on:** July 08, 2015, 03:30:30 AM »

I use high speed babbit metal for nosecaps. Years ago, I had a few friends who worked in lumber and pulp mills, and they supplied me with a life-time's quantity. I've cast about two hundred nosecaps of it so far.

Rob · « **Reply #16 on:** July 08, 2015, 10:09:32 AM »

come on guys what about the colour match can I fabricate one using stainless or aluminium

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #17 on:** July 08, 2015, 02:52:51 PM »

Not sure about the stainless look (also a LOT of work) but the aluminum will oxidize and will look "funky" -- I think it will look bad. I also use the babbitt metal - you could use lead worst case

.

bob in the woods · « **Reply #18 on:** July 08, 2015, 03:35:46 PM »

Stainless will look like stainless. Aluminum will oxidize and it will always look " off". CVA Mountain rifles had aluminum caps.
Get some wheel weights if you can't find anything else. Define "expensive " . Compare the cost of doing it right to the value of the overall piece.

JTR · « **Reply #19 on:** July 08, 2015, 06:23:45 PM »

Rob, Neither of those metals is going to have the same exactly color and texture as pewter, but in the long run, no one is going to care other than you. If you can live with the difference, then go for it!
If it were me, I'd use aluminum.

John

Scota4570 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 08, 2015, 06:25:51 PM »

In addition to the suggested alloys I can recommend Linotype. It flows great at low temperature. I use aluminum foil for the casting form. Casting a forend tip is the easiest way. Try it on a mock forend to get some practice and confidence. If you have a flaw you can touch it up with a large soldering iron.

Virginiarifleman · « **Reply #21 on:** July 09, 2015, 01:33:04 AM »

Track Of The Wolf sells Pewter beads by the bag.

Rob · « **Reply #22 on:** July 10, 2015, 01:47:42 AM »

thanks guys it took a while to get there .. define expensive $64 for one stick of tin definition enough ..
I will make up both and see which I can live with but could use brass which is not what I want but probably an ok choice

how does that sit with you guys

JCKelly · « **Reply #23 on:** July 10, 2015, 02:22:15 AM »

60 lead - 40 tin is the lowest melting stuff (really 63% lead 37% tin)
It should and ought to match the old guns much more than will modern pewter, which contains no lead.
It is the lead that gives it the dark patina.

In my personal view using stainless, or especially aluminum, on a Leman should be a felony.

JCKelly · « **Reply #24 on:** July 10, 2015, 02:36:40 AM »

BRAIN MALFUNCTION
Should have said 60 tin, 40 lead. This, or better 63% tin 37% lead, is the lowest melting point solder available. This makes life a touch easier when casting the nosecap.

Original half-stock rifle nosecaps were of some alloy containing lead. That is why they have a somewhat dark color.

Antique pewter contained lead, which gave it the same color when aged. It also poisoned those who liked to eat tomatoes from a pewter dish. So, modern "Britannia Metal" is an alloy of tin, copper and antimony, with no nasty lead in it. Makes a nice shiny nose-cap but that will look modern, not like the rifles Mr Leman made.

Please do no use aluminum.

News:

Author Topic: nose cap (Read 10845 times)

Rob

JoeG

ken

Rob

Turtle

Rob

Rob