Author Topic: trigger question  (Read 5770 times)

Offline Joe S.

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trigger question
« on: July 12, 2015, 09:07:47 PM »
Going thru old posts about this but figured  I will ask for  new perspective.  After inletting lock with the internals and the trigger plate.The double set bars are way above the sear bar .If you put the trigger pack in place and try to put lock in place sear bar hits the trigger bar.I know they make them for adjustment  but what's the best way of doing it? Install the  double  triggers and then see where     the sear bar hits and start filing?just need the proper instruction do it at half cock,?how much below the sear bar should the trigger bars be? ect.If there's a totorial on this let me know thanks ,Joe

Offline PPatch

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2015, 09:59:56 PM »
"The double set bars are way above the sear bar"

How far above the sear bar? Can you shim the trigger bar front and back a few thousandth and make it work? There only has to be a tiny gap between the top of the trigger bar and the sear bar. Enough that when you go through the half and full cock rotations the lock isn't triggered.

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Offline Joe S.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2015, 12:23:13 AM »
looks to me I'd have to file down a good 1/8 and probably more just to get the sear bar thru the channel to get the trigger pack to sit in its inlet.Set trigger being the worse of the two.Do folks end up filing these things down that far?

Offline sqrldog

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2015, 12:40:11 AM »
Joe are you talking about the triggers in the set or unset position? If you have one, Track of the Wolf catalog has a page of instructions on installing set triggers. The next question is what triggers are you using. Often it is necessary to fiddle with set triggers to get them to work. On skinny rifles with small locks and 3/4" atf barrels you may need to reduce the overall height of the triggers as set. If it's the set trigger in the unset position carefully remove a little off the set trigger spring to lower the set trigger in the unset position. It is also often necessary to bend the trigger bar to fit the profile of your stock rather than shaping the stock to fit the bar. Tim

Offline Joe S.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2015, 01:39:39 AM »
L&R late English style lockand L&R set triggers for hawken long stock flint.I did bend the bar abit to help but those triggers are way up in there.I will try to see if I can pull up the online track catalog via adobe reader?

Offline Joe S.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2015, 02:00:09 AM »
track shows Davis trigger and its bar has a way lower profile and looks like it would be perfect.How much can be filed off an l&R set.quess I could go with Davis trigger it has a longer,wider plate and do a do-over in a worse case senerio. There how to is also a Davis set

Offline frogwalking

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2015, 04:24:15 AM »
The L&R  Hawken triggers are significantly thicker, top to bottom than the Davis no. 4 or the Ron Long Hawken double sets.  I have built several Tennessee style skinny rifles using the Davis without a problem.  I still sometimes have to file a little off to make them work.  Oh.  before you start filing on the spring, most triggers either have a spring adjustment screw or just back off the screw holding the main spring a little.  If you have already inletted the big Hawken triggers, you may need to glue some wood back in and re-inlet the Davis triggers.  Luckily, this area does not show much, so if it is done carefully, no one will notice.  (I am an amateur, so if one of the more knowledgeable pros tell you something different, do what they say.)
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Offline sqrldog

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2015, 06:12:10 AM »
Joe I typed and thought I posted another response. I think you can remove a lot of height off the L&R triggers. Should be able to do it with a file. I have a set of L&R Hawken triggers and a file will work on them. Just don't take the triggers down low enough to cause the notch and blade to fail to safely funtion. I have examined original triggers that had a depression filed in the trigger blades to clear the sear. Sure woul beat trying to inlet and make another set trigger work.

Offline Joe S.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #8 on: July 13, 2015, 12:43:45 PM »
Thanks, will do some measurements to see just how much and make sure its going to work without causing problems

Offline Pete G.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2015, 03:50:06 PM »
I believe they made a design change a few years back and started making those triggers with a lot of extra stock in order to fit as many applications as possible. File them down to fit your application. If worst comes to worst, you can always order replacement parts and start over.

Offline Dave B

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #10 on: July 14, 2015, 08:34:36 AM »
I ran into this problem on one of my rifles. This is how I fixed it. Triming down the trigger bar to its best point then bending up the sear bar on the lock. It works real well now.



« Last Edit: November 17, 2020, 08:06:24 PM by Dave B »
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Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #11 on: July 14, 2015, 04:53:08 PM »
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
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Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #12 on: July 14, 2015, 07:47:51 PM »
If you make slim rifles like I do, then fitting double set triggers can be a real challenge.   I usually have to grind the bars down to less than 1/4" high.  In addition to that,  I quite frequently have to bend the sear bar up.    Of course,   the sear must be bent red hot and then re-hardened and tempered.  It takes a good bit of bending and fitting to get the sear bar bent just right.    It has to be bent in the right place and usually must be bent both up and forward.   If grinding down the trigger bar and  bending the sear bar up doesn't quite do the trick, then I will add a travel limiting screw to act as a stop for the spring.   Usually, this screw goes in the trigger plate between the bow spur and the grip rail.   If you just need to take some pressure off sear bar,  the additional adjustment screw in the trigger might be the best first step.   How you proceed just depends on your particular lock, barrel, and trigger combination.       

The most time consuming adjustment is bending the sear bar, but may be necessary with some small barrel and large lock combinations such as a Chambers Late Ketland with an A or B profile barrel.   That combination doesn't give you much space if you make the barrel channel web as thin as it should be.   By doing all the things I mentioned,  I can get an arrangement that is safe, provides a couple ounce set pull and a two pound unset pull.   

Offline Joe S.

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Re: trigger question
« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2015, 08:47:21 PM »
A little update.Have plenty of metal to work with and should work fine once I'm done.Having never done this before its good to have folks to bounce questions off of before a big oops now what,thanks,Joe