Author Topic: learning how to forge a tomahawk (Read 13093 times)

David R. Pennington · « **on:** July 19, 2015, 04:45:07 AM »

I am trying to learn how to forge tomahawks. First one is satisfactory, if not too pretty. I have put it through the paces intentionally abusing it to see how it will hold up. So far so good. It is wrought iron with a piece of plow steel forge welded in for a cutting bit. Second one welded up

but not finished. I learned how to get the eye tapered better on this one. I need a good drift I guess. Lots of fun. All done in traditional manner with coal forge and wood and leather bellows.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #1 on:** July 19, 2015, 04:48:13 AM »

Really good job on the eye!

BOB HILL · « **Reply #2 on:** July 19, 2015, 10:17:28 AM »

Looking good. Keep at it David. Bob

Don Steele · « **Reply #3 on:** July 19, 2015, 02:02:19 PM »

A very "Business-Like" implement, which I enjoy seeing as much the museum-quality show pieces typically presented.
Those are very nice...and quite pleasing to the eye, but a working piece built with traditional tools and methods that will take the use and sometimes..abuse without failing is a pleasant thing as well.
Thanks for sharing.

B.Habermehl · « **Reply #4 on:** July 19, 2015, 03:34:24 PM »

Impressive, when I had forge in my garage, I stuck more irons together by accident than purpose. I ever got the technique of forge welding figured out. I was working with cold rolled steel rather than iron though. Nice work.BJH

wattlebuster · « **Reply #5 on:** July 19, 2015, 03:56:27 PM »

Now thats just downright cool. I like it

Nordnecker · « **Reply #6 on:** July 19, 2015, 04:05:35 PM »

It looks like you are well on your way….Years ago, before my shoulders gave out and I had more free time, I was pretty obsessed with blacksmithing. While attending a forge-filled weekend, Peter Ross and Ken Swartz of colonial Williamsburg demonstrated forging an axe head. I watched with intent.
I know a tommahawk is a little different but they prepped the blank by fullering from the top. They left a mass of iron for the poll in the middle, thinned/ shaped the cheeks, and left a step where the bit would come together in front of the eye. After forge welding the eye shut, the forward part of the bit was left open. They held the head poll down on the top of the anvil and used a square piece of metal on the diagonal to open up two sides of the bit. In other words, the piece of tool steel for the bit edge was not a flat piece (as you used) but a square piece maybe 3/4"x 3/4".
The next step really blew my mind- They brought the two pieces out of the fire at welding heat and tapped them together with the head upright on the anvil. The light taps required to weld the two didn't even deform the cheeks- it stuck and back into the fire it went. After another heat, it came out of the fire and the finished forming it flat on the anvil. This made the weld in the middle of the bit first and gave plenty of thickness of tool steel to be forged out afterwards. No void at the weld.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #7 on:** July 19, 2015, 10:30:45 PM »

Quote from: Nordnecker on July 19, 2015, 04:05:35 PM

The light taps required to weld the two didn't even deform the cheeks-

One of the things to learn in forge welding is that it takes very little force. It is more about the correct temperature. The metals are nearly at the melting point and almost fluid so very little force is required to join them. Heating two separate pieces of wagon tire to weld together into a barrel skelp I have had them stick together in the fire. And yes wrought iron forge welds much more forgivingly than steel.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #8 on:** July 19, 2015, 10:33:07 PM »

And thanks for the encouragement. Just wish I could find more time to "play" with this stuff. I do want to try some welded up polled axes.

Gun Butcher · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2015, 11:45:27 PM »

Very nice Dave. You just keep adding to your already extensive repertoire.

Ron

patiodadio · « **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2015, 03:05:59 AM »

Looks great, two thumbs up !

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #11 on:** July 26, 2015, 09:51:27 AM »

Quote from: BJH on July 19, 2015, 03:34:24 PM

Impressive, when I had forge in my garage, I stuck more irons together by accident than purpose. I ever got the technique of forge welding figured out. I was working with cold rolled steel rather than iron though. Nice work.BJH

Pretty much you have one shot with steel, and you have to keep it completely oxidation free; i.e. lots of flux applied early and often.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2015, 03:35:06 PM »

Sandwiching steel between wrought iron like I did on this makes it easier. the wrought is not as temperature sensitive as the steel and protects the steel. You can see how the extra steel bit has burned off some on the rough welded blank I pictured.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2015, 06:04:23 AM »

Here is the finished hawk no. 2.

KC · « **Reply #14 on:** November 17, 2015, 05:23:15 PM »

Where did you get the wrought iron? I've done a little looking but all I can ever find is small bits on Ebay.

grabenkater · « **Reply #15 on:** November 17, 2015, 07:07:25 PM »

Quote from: KC on November 17, 2015, 05:23:15 PM

Where did you get the wrought iron? I've done a little looking but all I can ever find is small bits on Ebay.

http://www.realwroughtiron.com/

http://www.oldglobewood.com/real-wrought-iron.html

KC · « **Reply #16 on:** November 17, 2015, 08:07:13 PM »

Grabenkater,
Thanks. I've looked at Real Wrought Iron but always figured shipping from the U.K. would be way to expensive for small quantities. I'll have to look at Old Globe Wood though.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #17 on:** November 18, 2015, 12:34:24 AM »

I scour the junks shops and antique stores and buy up old junk. Wagon tires, old plow and wagon hardware etc.,. North central part of my state yields some old oil and gas well hardware that is good wrought iron, I bought a bucket full of old wagon hub bands the other day. You learn to recognize it after a while.

John Archer · « **Reply #18 on:** November 18, 2015, 12:54:33 AM »

I believe Old Globe Wood used to be called Wisconsin Woodchuck. I bought some 5/8" wrought iron rod from them a few years ago and was very pleased with it. I also bought some 3/4" wrought rod and it was red short. I let them know and they replaced it with another shipment of 5/8". A good company to deal with.

John.

B.Barker · « **Reply #19 on:** November 19, 2015, 05:26:58 AM »

Dave it looks like you have a pretty good grasp on making the wrap around axes as I call them. You are right the iron will protect the steel bit. I like to keep the bit a tad smaller than the iron. That way its harder to burn the steel. The biggest thing with welding is knowing what welding temps are and look like. The next thing is you have to pay close attention to your work. I've burned a lot of projects because I was not focused on the job at hand. Also good drifts save time in the finish shop. I need to make a good set for myself.

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #20 on:** November 19, 2015, 11:23:24 PM »

B. I just ordered a set of those factory drifts so I can make axes for folks who want to buy those factory handles. I learned if you pre bend an arc in the piece that will wrap the handle before you wrap then you automatically get a good tapered hole. That was one of those revelations I got while lying in bed one night thinking about how to do it.

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Author Topic: learning how to forge a tomahawk (Read 13093 times)

patiodadio