Cutting stock blanks

[moleeyes36]

I don't have access to a band saw to cut a stock pattern from a blank.  With the limited number of guns I'll likely build before crossing the river, I can't justify laying out several hundred dollars to buy one.  I'm sure some of you cut stock patterns from a blank without a band saw; what do you use? 

Do any of you use one of the more powerful jig saws like this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004323NPK/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p469_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=1GBAHKQFQE73AQAFEB1P&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2084660942&pf_rd_i=desktop

Or perhaps one of those Japanese woodworking saws of some sort?  Feedback appreciated.  Thanks.

Mole Eyes

[bob in the woods]

I have a " buck saw " blade that I mounted on a simple frame that I built.  It saws pretty fast and is good enough for what I use it for.  It doesn't take that long to cut out a stock blank.  I also have a german made rip saw [ hand saw ] that is great for some of the  straight cuts.  I do own a band saw but it is set up for use in my instrument building, and I just don't think that it's worth while setting up to support the stock board just for that one job.  Besides, I take a break from power tools when building guns. 

[P.W.Berkuta]

I've used that model but the one without the top handle when I had a plank that was too large for me to handle by myself. I called the Bosch people and told them that I had a plank of hard maple 2-3/4" thick and wanted to cut out a muzzleloading rifle stock out of the plank. They told me what type & size of blade to use. It was slow going but I did cut out the rifle's profile from the plank. After it was out of the plank any additional trimming was done with the bandsaw -- so the answer is yes but you need the right blade for the wood -- call up Bosch and tell them what you want to do. I even cut 1/4" thick  plate aluminum with it - good tool.

[David R. Pennington]

I use an electric chain saw to rough out blanks from a plank.

[T*O*F]

Years ago before I had a bandsaw, I used a Sears sabre saw.  It worked fine except it cut on a slight bevel towards the bottom so I had to hold back off my lines.

[Bill Ladd]

Mole Eyes - I bought one of these used (found on Craigslist) for less than that jig saw costs new.

[Mark Elliott]

I have done it with two handsaws, a 26" rip saw and a 26" crosscut saw.   You do need to make a set of saw benches and a bench with a good wood working vise to do it properly.   You also need to know how to properly sharpen and use hand saws.  You cut out the buttstock with a lot of short cuts.

I replaced a table saw and a 8" jointer with a jointers bench, two saw benches, two hand saws, and a jointer plane.   The benches cost $200 in materials and a LOT of work.   I am pretty sure you can buy a used band saw for $200.   I have learned that there is no such thing as Easy and Cheap, and there is usually no such thing as Easy or Cheap.        

If you want to build with all hand tools,   Mark Silver has a video on that very topic.

[bob in the woods]

I have that video by Mark Silver, and recommend it .  One good example of hand tools vs power tools and efficiency is the ram rod groove. Rather than set up and fire up my router, I can do it by hand with less noise and mess.

[pushboater]

I've cut out my last two rifles with a reciprocating saw, aka (sawsall).  They work great in a pinch.

Capt David

[Bill Ladd]

Mole Eyes - don't want to keep carping on bandsaws, but I just checked Space Coast Craigslist and found a handful on bandsaws that'll do the job for around $100-$150.

I'll hush now.

Bill

[Mark Elliott]

I have that video by Mark Silver, and recommend it .  One good example of hand tools vs power tools and efficiency is the ram rod groove. Rather than set up and fire up my router, I can do it by hand with less noise and mess.

I stopped using a router a long time ago for that very reason.   

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/japanesesilkyhibikiryobasaw.aspx
I have used one of these a couple times until I got a bandsaw.  Works great.  Cuts on the pull.

[moleeyes36]

I retired a few years ago, sold my big house on the beach and moved a little inland to a typical Florida retirement community of newer manufactured homes.  I have very limited space for a work area (no garage, carport only).  I'm revamping part of my 10 x 10 mini-storage unit to put in a nice woodworking bench where I can also mount my pattern makers vise.  Since I already have to make a sturdy stand for my shop vise and table top drill press, a stand alone band saw just takes up too much room there for the few times I'd use it.

Base on the positive inputs about using a good handheld electric saw (like I linked to in my original post) and Dr. Tim-Boone's feedback on using a good quality Japanese saw, those too methods seem to work just fine.  They also fit my space constraints quite well.  I really appreciate all the feedback, thanks. 

Mole Eyes 

[Dennis Glazener]

Do any of you use one of the more powerful jig saws like this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004323NPK/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p469_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=1GBAHKQFQE73AQAFEB1P&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2084660942&pf_rd_i=desktop

I have a Bosch similar to that one and I use it and a regular circular saw to cut out my stock blanks. I also have a 12 inch Sears band saw and NEVER use it for cutting stock blanks. Its just too hard for me to man handle the heavy boards that I am cutting blanks from. Even after you cut off the excess it much easier to cut with the Bosch saw while the blank is laying down than to have to wrestle the heavy blank on the small band saw table.

I usually cut the straight cuts with the circular saw and if the blanks are thicker that the blade will cut I use the Bosch to finish cutting through the 1/4" or so that the circular saw misses. I think the Bosch blades that I use are the longest most aggressive they sell but it does a great job with Cherry, walnut and all but the hardest maple. With real hard maple I just have to take it slow.
Dennis

[moleeyes36]

Thank you, Dennis.  After reading the other inputs, I'd decided to try it the same way you described.  It's good to hear you do it that way all the time with such good results.

Mole Eyes

[WadePatton]

...

Base on the positive inputs about using a good handheld electric saw (like I linked to in my original post) and Dr. Tim-Boone's feedback on using a good quality Japanese saw, those too methods seem to work just fine.  They also fit my space constraints quite well.  I really appreciate all the feedback, thanks. 

Mole Eyes 

I've not tried it on a rifle blank yet, but recently bought an inexpensive "knock off" of the Japanese style saws in the Irwin brand.  ONCE you get the hang of cutting "backwards", they work GREAT-precise, small kerf, good finish.  My collection of refurbished hand-saws now goes neglected.

I expect most of my human-powered cross-cuts and rips to be pull-stroked from now on.

But then I see a powered bandsaw in the future too.  Craigslist is dripping with them.

[gunmaker]

Dennis, take a piece of that slick melamine shelf mat'l. and use it clamped to band saw table to support your big blanks.   

[David R. Pennington]

Mark I have used the hand saw method as well with good sharp rip and crosscut saws plus good sharp hatchet. My saw benches were much less expensive.  I made them from split log halves, auger bored holes and split legs and shaped with hatchet. Hewed tops flat.
I had a truck load of planks to convert to blanks so I opted for the chainsaw method to rough them out.

[Mark Elliott]

Mark I have used the hand saw method as well with good sharp rip and crosscut saws plus good sharp hatchet. My saw benches were much less expensive.  I made them from split log halves, auger bored holes and split legs and shaped with hatchet. Hewed tops flat.
I had a truck load of planks to convert to blanks so I opted for the chainsaw method to rough them out.

David,

The saw benches didn't cost $200.   They had about $20 worth of pine boards in them.  I figured out how to get a single saw bench out of a single 12"x96"x3/4" board.  The $200 estimate was for the materials for the saw benches AND an 8', 400lb, Nicholson bench.   You could park a car on top of that thing.   

[Dennis Glazener]

Dennis, take a piece of that slick melamine shelf mat'l. and use it clamped to band saw table to support your big blanks.

  Am sure it would help a lot but I don't have any and to tell you the truth when I finish with the blanks that I have dried I will not be doing anymore! It's not worth it to me even when I get "free" walnut/maple/cherry. By the time I put gas in my truck so I can pull my trailer (about 12-14MPG with trailer), go load the logs, take them to the mill then bring them home and find a place to dry them for 3 plus years its bad enough. Then when I figure the time/work it takes me to cut the blanks out (often having a almost perfect blank turn into a half stock or no stock by the time its cut out (due to hidden imperfections) its cheaper for me to buy them from Dunlap!
Dennis

[bob in the woods]

I know exactly what you mean, Dennis.  Most of the last 2 "free" cherry logs a friend gave me ended up in my wood stove
My free maple is looking like it will likely provide a life time supply of pistol stocks.  Maybe .

[Mark Elliott]

Dennis, take a piece of that slick melamine shelf mat'l. and use it clamped to band saw table to support your big blanks.

  Am sure it would help a lot but I don't have any and to tell you the truth when I finish with the blanks that I have dried I will not be doing anymore! It's not worth it to me even when I get "free" walnut/maple/cherry. By the time I put gas in my truck so I can pull my trailer (about 12-14MPG with trailer), go load the logs, take them to the mill then bring them home and find a place to dry them for 3 plus years its bad enough. Then when I figure the time/work it takes me to cut the blanks out (often having a almost perfect blank turn into a half stock or no stock by the time its cut out (due to hidden imperfections) its cheaper for me to buy them from Dunlap!
Dennis

I thought we were talking about cutting a stock out of a stock blank.   That is what my responses addressed.   If you are cutting blanks out of rough lumber,  that is a whole other kettle of fish.   I would leave that for someone with an industrial size jointer and bandsaw.    I have a good 14" bandsaw, but if I had to cut blanks out of rough sawn lumber,  I would probably use my reciprocating saw.   I have it for those big sawing jobs, wood or metal.


   

[bama]

I have used a ruff cut hand saw to cut out a blank and it will do an OK job until you get to the bottom of the wrist area. Here i made several cross cuts across the blank down to my cut line then used a sabre saw to finish that area. This was a lot of work and made really apreciate the Jet band saw when i bought it. I no longer dread cutting out a blank since i got it.😍

I understand your space limitations, i think i would look for a retired buddy down there that has a band saw. It didn't take but once cutting out a blank by hand to teach me the value of a band saw.😁

[P.W.Berkuta]

Back in 1974 when I was young and strong I went to a local LARGE lumber mill in Allentown NJ and asked the owner for a curly sugar maple log to be cut up into 3"thick planks. He pointed to a PILE of maple logs that varied somewhere from 30" to 35" in diameter and said "pick one".  With limited knowledge of what I was looking for I picked a log and itdid have a fair amount of curl to most of it. They slab cut it along it's lenght then cut it in thirds so I ended up with 20 planks that averaged 3" X 25" X 65". I air dried them for 4 years before working them (I have two planks left). I got my walnut from a friend who's father had a farm outside of Easton, PA which had a walnut grove on it - mostly straight grain wood but some nice crotch figure - I have a few planks of that left also. To cut out the stock profile in those younger years of my life I used a skillsaw, a hand saw, & a chain saw because that was all I had at that time. Since I past the 50 year old mark a while back I can no longer heft that kind of wood up on to a bandsaw so I use other power hand-held saws to rough out my stocks so that I can handle them without hurting myself. For all you that can "muscle" those large planks I tip my hat to you - but remember there will come a day that you too will not be able to do it .

[Mike Brooks]

The bandsaw I'm using now I paid $10 for at an auction a couple years ago. Big floor model, Works great. I think this is the 3rd band saw I've had in 35 years of gunbuilding, wore the first two out.