How to install barrel staple?

[Clifton Hicks]

I tried searching this subject but couldn't find specific info on the process.

I have installed the typical underlug/pin but have never done the staples. Would very much appreciate if someone could explain exactly how it's done or point me in the right direction.

[Kevin Houlihan]

Track of he Wolf sells a double punch and a staking tool to use when installing staples. First use the punch to locate the locations for the staple legs. Next drill a SHALLOW hole the diameter of the staple legs at each punch mark. Lastly, push the staple legs down into the holes and using a flat punch or the staking tool push the barrel metal around each leg in toward the leg. This will pretty effectively keep the staple from coming out. Done correctly the staples are very strong. Just make sure the holes in the barrel are SHALLOW and no bigger in diameter than the largest part of the staple leg.
Good luck
Kevin

[flehto]

Made  staples out of large nails and formed them over a "U" shaped steel block. Laid out and drilled the 2 holes to suit the staple leg distance....used the lockable spindle stop to ensure the proper depth. The first drill had an angled point and the second was a flat bottom drill. Lightly pounded the staple into the holes and scribed  each staple leg at the bbl surface and then filed a groove into each leg. Inserted the staple and w/ a small angled faced punch, peened steel into the grooves.  When first starting to build LRs, always used  staples and wedges but now use pins and  lugs.
The staples could also be soldered in....Fred

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Some careful planning is needed prior to drilling your holes.  At the lug location, measure the barrel's diameter, and subtract the bore including the groove depth X 2.  Now divide that dimension by 2 and you have how much steel there is from the surface to the bore.  Eg:  swamped barrel in .50 cal. with .012" deep rifling.  Diameter at the staple is .870".  Subtract the bore of .50 cal. = .370".  Groove depth is .012" x 2 = .024".  Subtract this from .370" = .346".  This includes metal  both above and below the bore, so divide by 2 = .173".  At this location, you have .173" of steel from the surface to the bore.  The leg on your lug is likely only about .097" or 3/32".  Drill your holes .100" deep and you still have .073" of steel between the end of the hole and the bore.

How much is too much?  The pounds per square inch of bore pressure on the end of that hole is practically insignificant.  Still, you don't want the bore to dimple from outward pressure, or from hammering the barrel metal into the hole either.  So I'd stop drilling at ~.060".  If your barrel is too skinny for this type of fastener, use a dovetail or solder on a lug.

Finally, I use a nail set ground flat on the bottom and with a flat side (so I can place the set right up against the staple) and drive in three places...end and each side forming a cloverleaf.  The tool TOW sells is theoretically great, but requires too heavy a hammer blow to move enough steel into the cavity, thereby jeopardizing the bore.


I edited my dimensions thanks to the eagle eye of a sharp patron.  And that simply shows that he understands the concept and can do math better than I.  It also shows that you have to double check your math before you drill!!

[Naphtali]

Then it's not a great idea to soft- or silver solder staples to barrel, and equally not great to affix them to underrib?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'm missing something with that last post...fixing staples to an under rib?  I don't solder staples to my barrels.  The mechanical joint does it all.

[sqrldog]

Taylor you might want to recheck the math in yoru post. Unless I'm bad wrong .870 minus .500 equals .370. Tim

[rich pierce]

Keep in mind there have been a number of posts over the years from folks who have accidentally drilled into the bore when using prefab staples and the drilling method.  I don't believe this is a period technique, having never seen and original with staples embedded into a round hole.  So, for me, high risk and not a period technique = I'm not interested.  Who knows how many have drilled into their bores and been too embarrassed to mention it here?  Just a caution.

[Clifton Hicks]

Good Lord. Sounds pretty rough to me, boys. I'm gonna stick with the dovetail lug for now! Thanks for the input.

[Benedict]

I don't use staples because of the risk of drilling into the bore.  But I have wondered about installing the staples closer to the edge of the flat.  It appears that all these discussions talk about installing them on the center of the flat.  The center is the thinnest place and if you move close to the edge you have more metal and less chance of drilling through.  Is there some reason not to do this?

[flehto]

When I mentioned that the staples could be soldered, the staples legs are in the holes and soldered in ...this is in lieu of staking or in addition to staling. I just stake .

Either a drill collar, a lockable spindle stop or both can be used to prevent drilling too deep.  The flat bottom drill yields maximum useable depth. ....Fred

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Thanks Tim:  I went back and re-did my math.  Goes to show that even when you think you know what you're doing, if your math is wrong, you might end up with a steel flute.