bees wax stock finish?

[dave gross]

Does anyone here have advice on the use of bees wax as a stock finish?  If so how is the wax softened to he point where it can be applied?  Can it be melted with some other substance to accomplish this.  I tried bees wax on one of my older rifles by heating it to liquid and applying it but what a time I had to rub it out...but it did make a nice hard finish.  Help!!

Dave Gross
Way down east in Maine

[tallbear]

Dave
I've used it a couple of times.After staining you use a heat source to melt and drive the wax into the wood.A radiant heat source is recommended.Just heat the wood until the wax melts and is absorbed into the wood.When the wood won't take anymore your done.Beeswax does need to be touched up once in a while.I make a touch up wax by mixing grated(I use a cheese grater) wax with turpentine until it's the consistency of Vaseline.Apply,let dry well and buff off.

Mitch

[Jim Filipski]

In the past I have used a few concoctions of beeswax dissolved in turpentine also beeswax, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil mix for military muskets. I also use the later on my tool handles in my shop ( not bad on metal parts either). Beeswax will dissolve in turps or mineral spirits if you have patience. take a few chunks place in bottle with either solvent and shake up a couple times a day.
Jim

P.S. Note, It's not the best gun finish!...... just one of many alternate methods

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Jim, in your opinion, what is the best finish?

[T*O*F]

Note, It's not the best gun finish!...... just one of many alternate methods

Probably 15 or more years ago, I was at a craft fair and stopped by a wood turner's booth. He had a piece of black walnut with the most beautiful finish on it and I inquired about his method.  He used dark brown Kiwi shoe polish.

I finished a Hawken using his method.  Heat the wood and melt the polish in the tin.  Apply until no more was absorbed.  Allow to dry and buff vigorously with soft flannel.  I sold the gun last year and it would still bead water.  Once or twice a year I would hit it with a coat of brown Antiquax and buff it well.

[Jim Filipski]

Jim, in your opinion, what is the best finish?

A ha! There is none! ...............Just alternate methods of doing a similar thing.
You didn't think you catch me with that one did ya!

[brokenflint]

I know Gary Brumfield uses this from time to time, hopefully he will pop in and post his process.

[Jim Filipski]

Seriously, It is the finish that works best for your purposes.

I use a bunch depending on what & for whom I building for

If I'm building for myself and it is going to be more of a "looker" then a "beater" Traditional all the way Seed or button lac filler and an oil modified varnish on top.

If I'm building for a hunter or any heavy user, I used a poly modified /tung oil  (similar to a poly modified /linseed oil like permalyn but nicer finish in my opinion) May be difficult to get in certain areas http://www.ugl.com/zarWoodFinishing/zarTungOil.php
Of course I have my own method of applying it

If I'm reworking a reenactors musket ( especially an Indian one that must have been soaked in kerosene for a year before they shaped the stock!) I rub it down heavy with the beeswax,turp, linseed mix or soak it good with watco Danish oil  then wax after a few weeks. Even after removing all their finish the wood still feels greasy and oily so no since trying to apply a varnish or drying oil finish over those things.

So for me : every gun there can be a different finish
Jim

[t.caster]

Doesn't beeswax seep out of the wood and onto your hands and clothes on hot days?

[Jim Filipski]

Doesn't beeswax seep out of the wood and onto your hands and clothes on hot days?

Tom the way I apply it is nothing more then like using a paste wax, In other words I don't put it on heavy & not on bare wood. Just as a top coat for a stock that has questionable background ( read: not able to pull all the gunk out of it when refinishing) So I don't see the problem

Maybe the others who actually apply it with heat etc & use it as the full finish can say something about this

[tallbear]

Tom
I've never had any trouble with the wax in hot weather.It's buffed off like any wax so it's not sticky at all.I used the wax after talking to Gary Brumfield about it on my personal rifle as a test.After three years I'm pretty happy with it.Ido have to touch it up every once in a while!!

Mitch

[t.caster]

I currently use a home brewed wax. I was getting real low on my Big Johnsons Furniture wax and darkbrown Briwax, so I melted them together and added pure Beeswax just for fun. I use that on everything now for protection. Of course they already have an oil (permalyn) seal & finish on them. Haven't ever tried just wax as the only finish.

[Herb]

When I finish a rifle, the metal browned and the wood finished, perhaps with tung oil, I heat the metal with a propane torch (not having a heat gun) until the beeswax will melt after I have wiped it on.  Then I rub it with a cloth to remove the excess.  I do the same with the wood.  Rub the wax on the wood and then heat it with the flame.  Wipe it off.  I have never felt any stickiness from this finish.