I do the same, or simiar, without the Murphy's oil soap, which has proved to be not necessary - at all. The oil seems to help 'some' with lubricity, however in the winter time, is not necessary either. The Winter windshield washer fluid we use merely to prevent freezing when shooting the trail in the winter time.
Taylor tried straight Neetsfoot Oil one winter to get away from the deathly cold of handling wet patches with bare fingers in sub-freezing temps. The oiled patches are no where near as cold as those with alcohol and water in them. Due to the patch combinations we use, we NEVER have to wipe nor do we EVER get burnt, cut or blown patches. Indeed, the patches are re-usable if collected and relubed.
I used Track's Mink oil one Sunday in my .32. Seems to me, IIRC, that I was using the .311" cast balls (Lee Mould) with the railroad (red/lblue/white) mattress ticking patches my calipers measure tightly squeezed at .0235". The last shot of the day, probably # 50 or even 55 to 60, loaded more easily than the first one which was pushed down the clean bore. I used the rifle's 5/16"hickory rod for loading as I forgot the range rod I usually use to save having to pull out the rifle's rod and replace it each shot. This rifle requires 5gr.; MORE powder (40gr. vs 35gr.) when using an oiled patch, as opposed to a WWWF+N-oil patch, just to get the same speed and point of impact.
I should note here, that we all (at PG) have slighlty different lube combinations that ALL they work perfectly - NONE of us has to wipe for a day's shooting - up to 100 runs at least.
The AA" trick", if there is such a thing as a trick, is to load a decent combination. No, you will be able to load it with a thumb;
anything worth while takes some work. In this case, not much, but more that is described by some.