Author Topic: Busy on the Forge (Read 17146 times)

jcmcclure · « **on:** October 18, 2015, 05:26:41 AM »

The temps have been cooling off and I have been taking a little time to forge some blades that will be my bad weather projects this winter. Opinions and comments are welcomed.

okieboy · « **Reply #1 on:** October 18, 2015, 06:25:55 AM »

I think the forging looks great. I think that you deserve an anvil in better condition. Proves that a craftsman can do better work with the tools he has than a noncraftsman can do with the best tools money can buy.
I look forward to seeing the finished product.

jcmcclure · « **Reply #2 on:** October 18, 2015, 06:31:36 AM »

Quote from: okieboy on October 18, 2015, 06:25:55 AM

I think the forging looks great. I think that you deserve an anvil in better condition. Proves that a craftsman can do better work with the tools he has than a noncraftsman can do with the best tools money can buy.
I look forward to seeing the finished product.

I am constantly on the lookout for a better anvil. This was my first and, so far, only anvil and I have just made due. Spotted a few today, but they were all more anvil than I needed and thus out of my price range also lol.

Joe Schell · « **Reply #3 on:** October 18, 2015, 07:09:43 AM »

Those look real good. The only thing I'd change is to offset the tang so the back of the handle will line up with the spine of the blade, but thats just my opinion.

spiderman852 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 18, 2015, 02:29:36 PM »

I'm new at 'smithing as my question will show. Are used files something I would hold on to for future projects? Like making knives?

Mike

Old Ford2 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 18, 2015, 03:19:45 PM »

It looks as though you have a few good projects waiting for you.
What material are you using for the blades? Leaf springs? English, American, or German files are very good.
There is nothing wrong with your anvil, that a milling machine, or a surface grinder couldn't fix. Much cheaper than another anvil.
Some of the deep breaks or gouges will have to remain, or you can modify an edge break to your liking with a grinder.
With a flap sander on the grinder, you can rejuvenate the tip of the horn, and also the existing radius edges.
Fred

jcmcclure · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2015, 06:13:43 PM »

Quote from: Old Ford2 on October 18, 2015, 03:19:45 PM

It looks as though you have a few good projects waiting for you.
What material are you using for the blades? Leaf springs? English, American, or German files are very good.
There is nothing wrong with your anvil, that a milling machine, or a surface grinder couldn't fix. Much cheaper than another anvil.
Some of the deep breaks or gouges will have to remain, or you can modify an edge break to your liking with a grinder.
With a flap sander on the grinder, you can rejuvenate the tip of the horn, and also the existing radius edges.
Fred

The pictures of the cooled blades on the anvil are old Nicholson files and the blade with color was a piece of 1085 that a friend sent me.

jcmcclure · « **Reply #7 on:** October 18, 2015, 06:14:44 PM »

Quote from: spiderman852 on October 18, 2015, 02:29:36 PM

I'm new at 'smithing as my question will show. Are used files something I would hold on to for future projects? Like making knives?

Mike

I love using old file...three of the four blades in these pics were done with files.

Robby · « **Reply #8 on:** October 19, 2015, 01:43:08 AM »

Is it possible that you could refresh the surface of your anvil by having it milled or ground back to a flat surface? Nice little anvil, be a shame to lose it.
Robby

jcmcclure · « **Reply #9 on:** October 19, 2015, 02:14:51 AM »

Quote from: Robby on October 19, 2015, 01:43:08 AM

Is it possible that you could refresh the surface of your anvil by having it milled or ground back to a flat surface? Nice little anvil, be a shame to lose it.
Robby

It would be a lot of grinding. I have thought more than once about having a flat surface welded on to the old face. That would seem to be a bit easier, but I am not sure as to what an appropriate surface to attach would be.

marcusb · « **Reply #10 on:** October 19, 2015, 03:28:18 AM »

Nice blades, is that anvil a vulcan?

Gaeckle · « **Reply #11 on:** October 19, 2015, 04:39:18 AM »

Quote from: jcmcclure on October 19, 2015, 02:14:51 AM

Quote from: Robby on October 19, 2015, 01:43:08 AM
Is it possible that you could refresh the surface of your anvil by having it milled or ground back to a flat surface? Nice little anvil, be a shame to lose it.
Robby

It would be a lot of grinding. I have thought more than once about having a flat surface welded on to the old face. That would seem to be a bit easier, but I am not sure as to what an appropriate surface to attach would be.

I had an anvil that was just as bad, if not worse, so I welded a piece of 1/2 steel plate on it. I have about a 1/4 inch over hang from the original edge....works pretty good.

jcmcclure · « **Reply #12 on:** October 19, 2015, 05:35:27 AM »

Quote from: marcusb on October 19, 2015, 03:28:18 AM

Nice blades, is that anvil a vulcan?

No it is a FISHER

jcmcclure · « **Reply #13 on:** October 19, 2015, 05:36:27 AM »

Quote from: Gaeckle on October 19, 2015, 04:39:18 AM

Quote from: jcmcclure on October 19, 2015, 02:14:51 AM
Quote from: Robby on October 19, 2015, 01:43:08 AM
Is it possible that you could refresh the surface of your anvil by having it milled or ground back to a flat surface? Nice little anvil, be a shame to lose it.
Robby

It would be a lot of grinding. I have thought more than once about having a flat surface welded on to the old face. That would seem to be a bit easier, but I am not sure as to what an appropriate surface to attach would be.

I have a close friend who has been welding for a number of years...I will have to talk with him and see what he thinks.
I had an anvil that was just as bad, if not worse, so I welded a piece of 1/2 steel plate on it. I have about a 1/4 inch over hang from the original edge....works pretty good.

I have a close friend who is a great welder. I will chat with him and see what he thinks.

rich pierce · « **Reply #14 on:** October 19, 2015, 06:05:52 AM »

The main surface of the anvil should be hardened, unlike the horn or ledge. So it is not so simple as welding on a plate and having a like new anvil.

jcmcclure · « **Reply #15 on:** October 19, 2015, 06:22:57 AM »

Quote from: rich pierce on October 19, 2015, 06:05:52 AM

The main surface of the anvil should be hardened, unlike the horn or ledge. So it is not so simple as welding on a plate and having a like new anvil.

I have been doing a good bit of reading and I a well aware that it is more than putting on a new table. It is going to be a project any direction. Just looking at the different options out there.

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #16 on:** October 19, 2015, 02:26:07 PM »

Somewhere I saw a video of resurfacing the Face of an anvil. It involved putting it on a fire to soften the Face, then milling the Face and Table back, then reharding and tempering it back, again on a fire. Unfortunately I can't find it. Ring any bells for anybody?

Tim C.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #17 on:** October 19, 2015, 02:30:04 PM »

Quote from: Tim Crosby on October 19, 2015, 02:26:07 PM

Somewhere I saw a video of resurfacing the Face of an anvil. It involved putting it on a fire to soften the Face, then milling the Face and Table back, then reharding and tempering it back, again on a fire. Unfortunately I can't find it. Ring any bells for anybody?

Tim C.

About 40 years ago I resurfaced mine with a surface grinder. I still have it
but use another one.

Bob Roller

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #18 on:** October 19, 2015, 08:34:49 PM »

There was a pro blacksmith at at function I went to last spring. He had a beautiful anvil that rang like a church bell. The face was as flat and smooth and almost as reflective as a mirror. I mentioned that mine look horrible and he said I should have seen his before he rebuilt it. He welded (I think with a special rod) it up and then, if I remember right, milled it with a carbide end mill. It sure looked and sounded nice.
Dennis

al56 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 19, 2015, 10:05:01 PM »

You can use hard surfacing rod like you would use on a dozer blade or rock crusher teeth to build it up. At least that is what I have been told. I may try it here at school as our 2 anvils are shot.
Al

okieboy · « **Reply #20 on:** October 20, 2015, 01:20:04 AM »

The economics of anvils are complicated. In the past year, I have added a 100 lb. Peter Wright and a 150 lb Trenton to my shop for a total cost of $505.00. They are both in good condition,ready to go. I picked these up locally (no shipping charges) and consider myself fortunate to find them (I searched devotedly).
There are GREAT new anvils made in the U.S. and Europe; $505.00 would make a small down payment on one of these.
It is possible to rebuild an anvil. To do it right is not a small task. Like rebuilding an abused longrifle, the anvil needs to justify the investment. Why put $300.00 into an anvil that was mediocre when new. A Fisher, a Mousehole, Trenton, Hay Budden, or Peter Wright might all justify the effort, but many old abused anvils are now just curios.
If one decides to invest in restoring a worthy anvil, then reading Robb Gunther's article is a good place to start, though not the only way to do it.
And I really do think that your skills,JM, justify and will be well served by superior tools as you can obtain them.

http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm

Topknot · « **Reply #21 on:** October 20, 2015, 06:50:24 AM »

I cant believe some of you guys, the man was asking about how his forgings looked and wanted everyones opinion on how he was doing but you guys started right off by putting down his anvil. He knows that he could use a new anvil, but cant afford one. He has simply made do with the one he has. I for one think his forgings look great and will make good knives, JMO . Keep up the good work.

topknot

jcmcclure · « **Reply #22 on:** October 20, 2015, 03:38:26 PM »

Quote from: Topknot on October 20, 2015, 06:50:24 AM

I cant believe some of you guys, the man was asking about how his forgings looked and wanted everyones opinion on how he was doing but you guys started right off by putting down his anvil. He knows that he could use a new anvil, but cant afford one. He has simply made do with the one he has. I for one think his forgings look great and will make good knives, JMO . Keep up the good work.

topknot

Thanks for all the thoughts and opinions. I work as a deputy sheriff and it takes a whole lot to offend me lol. The opinions about the anvil have been good and I have learned somethings for the next anvil, but realistically I probably wont be doing any major restoration on this one because of a lot of cost factors.

I said "any" thoughts or opinions,so we are good. Thanks for all of the feed back!

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #23 on:** October 20, 2015, 06:03:30 PM »

Hey, J.C. don't worry about that anvil. I still have the one I started on, and it makes that one look like a cherry one owner. Mine had the horn broken off, and a big crack in the face.
I teach the Boy Scout metal working merit badge, and thats the anvil they all start out on. Its a big deal when they graduate to the good anvil, and the big forge.

Hungry Horse

KC · « **Reply #24 on:** October 20, 2015, 07:19:32 PM »

I like the blades. I have an old Hay Budden anvil and a ratchet forge that I've been wanting to get set up for use. I'm in the beginning of my first rifle build right now, so the blacksmithing will have to wait awhile longer. I actually have two anvils, one in need of a face resurfacing. I researched it a bit and came across a 2 part anvil restoration video posted by a guy from Raleigh, North Carolina. He restored one by building up the face with welds and then grinding it off. Part 2 of the video shows how he re-hardens the face. It's pretty ingenious and looks like a tough job, but with a helper, it could be done by a determined person. Here's a link to Part One.

News:

Author Topic: Busy on the Forge (Read 17146 times)