New member First post

[wbradbury]

Hello all!

I have decided recently to stop procrastinating and learn how to build these beautiful guns. I have built a few rifles but I have not built a longrifle yet. I'm sure I will be bugging everyone here with incessant questions for a long time. I'll start with this: What metal finish was originally used for these rifles. I have rust blued before but I have read that this process was not used on longrifles. Was it browning? What is fire bluing and is it different from nitre bluing? Thanks, Will

[rich pierce]

Fire blueing is achieved by cooking the barrel etc buried in coals limiting oxygen that way. Done in a trench or in a trough and buried. Some worry about bore scaling.

Original flint guns pre 1780 normally were finished bright or fire blued from what is seen on underside of barrels on originals in good condition. If the barrels appear browned it I'd hard to determine if that was how they were when new or whether it just happened in use. Locks were generally case hardened and polished bright. Iron furniture on muskets and Euro guns was normally finished bright and maintained bright. Few iron mounted rifles pre 1780 here and we don't know what finish they had when new. Early Virginia "black" rifles may have had fire blackened finish on guard and buttplate. 

[wbradbury]

Thanks. I'm afraid to leave anything bright where I live (eastern NC) due to the humidity. What is commonly seen or used as a finish on modern day builds?

[Dennis Glazener]

My first choice is Chambers Oil Finish, its easy to use and makes for a really beautiful finish.

I used Danish oil for a long time but folks tell me its does not hold up to wet weather. Since I don't hunt or shoot in the rain I never had any problems with it.
Dennis

[JCurtiss]

My first choice is Chambers Oil Finish, its easy to use and makes for a really beautiful finish.

I used Danish oil for a long time but folks tell me its does not hold up to wet weather. Since I don't hunt or shoot in the rain I never had any problems with it.
Dennis

Isn't the Chambers Oil finish for the stock? Wbradbury is looking for suggestions regarding barrel finishes.

[wbradbury]

My first choice is Chambers Oil Finish, its easy to use and makes for a really beautiful finish.

I used Danish oil for a long time but folks tell me its does not hold up to wet weather. Since I don't hunt or shoot in the rain I never had any problems with it.
Dennis

Danish oil? Are you speaking of wood finish or metal parts? I've used Danish oil on walnut stocks and I like it too.
Will

[PPatch]

Thanks. I'm afraid to leave anything bright where I live (eastern NC) due to the humidity. What is commonly seen or used as a finish on modern day builds?

North Georgia here. "Bright" means polished and polished steel resists rust pretty well. Of course you have to keep a thin layer of oil on the metal. I have two guns that have polished locks on them and they have been out in the shop all summer with no problems. In fact I moved them out there this last spring just to see how they would fare. Whatever the humidity is outside it is the same in my shop.

dave

And oh... Welcome to the forum and good luck on your build.

[Dennis Glazener]

My first choice is Chambers Oil Finish, its easy to use and makes for a really beautiful finish.

I used Danish oil for a long time but folks tell me its does not hold up to wet weather. Since I don't hunt or shoot in the rain I never had any problems with it.
Dennis

What metal finish was originally used for these rifles.
Opps, not sure how I missed "metal" and thought stock finish! Sorry but if you ever ask about stock finish you have my answer

[dogcatcher]

My first choice is Chambers Oil Finish, its easy to use and makes for a really beautiful finish.

I used Danish oil for a long time but folks tell me its does not hold up to wet weather. Since I don't hunt or shoot in the rain I never had any problems with it.
Dennis

Danish oil is an indoor furniture finish, a better bet is Teak oil.  Teak oil is an outdoor finish, about the same type of finish but lighter in color.  It used a lot for wood trim on boats and lawn furniture.  I use it a lot for game calls, duck and predator calls, a good finish that will take a beating in the outdoors.  I have tried a lot of brands, but settled on Watco Teak Oil, available almost every where, even Wall World carries it.

[Swampwalker]

WBradbury,
I also live in the tidewater, but in Virginia - I dare say it's just as humid in the summer. 
I typically rust brown the barrels.  This holds up extremely well and is a versitle finish.  Locks are currently rust blued or browned, but I usually card them heavily to keep the finish fine grained.  In the future I plan to case harden locks which should make them quite rust resistant.

[wbradbury]

WBradbury,
I also live in the tidewater, but in Virginia - I dare say it's just as humid in the summer. 
I typically rust brown the barrels.  This holds up extremely well and is a versitle finish.  Locks are currently rust blued or browned, but I usually card them heavily to keep the finish fine grained.  In the future I plan to case harden locks which should make them quite rust resistant.

That's good. Now, rust browning is like rust bluing only without boiling, correct?

[PPatch]

That's good. Now, rust browning is like rust bluing only without boiling, correct?

You are correct.

dave