Lock moulding question

[conquerordie]

Ok. I'm currently building a Type G from a plank. When I have done the  lock panels on previous guns, they always have a beavertail or some kind of carving that helps me blend the panel into the wrist. On a Type G it just slightly tapers to the wrist at the rear of the lock. This seems like the simplest place to shape, but I'm not sure what took to use here. I know I just don't stab down with a chisel as it will not look right. Again seems like a simple part of the project , but I've never done just a simple lock moulding termination like that. So do you gouge around the tail to create the slight taper? Thanks for the help,
Conquerordie

[Mark Elliott]

I shape my lock panels with a pattern makers rasp.   You just use the small round part of the rasp to form the point of the lock panels where it blends into the wrists.   You do it this way regardless of the moulding/carving.   The moulding/carving is added after this shaping is done at the front and rear of the lock panel.   I use a rat tail file to rough shape the front of the lock panels.   I finish up the lock panels with round scrapers; specifically Jerry Fisher stock scrapers available from Brownells.  Again, the moulding/carving including the beaver tail is done AFTER the lock panels are fully shaped and finished.   The blending with the wrist is done as part of the basic shaping of the lock panels and not as a part of the carving.  

 I hope that makes sense.    Pictures would help here.   Refer to the Gunsmith of Grenville County on this.   Peter has good diagrams explaining how to shape the stock.   Just remember that beavertails are part of the decoration, not part of the architecture.    

[conquerordie]

Thanks Mark. I'll review that section in the book. Looking at other Type G's they just appear to have the slightest taper from the height of the lock panel at the very end of it at the tail to the final dimension at the wrist where they meet. Haven't come this far to screw it up now.
Greg

[Acer Saccharum]

Don't cut the panels in with a chisel, but slowly define them with shape...use a rasp sparingly, look, turn the stock in good light, and slowly develop the shape.

I wish I had a series of photos that show the shape as it changes from block to finished form.

[rich pierce]

Spokeshave at the rear.

[Topknot]

Tom, that's a good idea.  Sounds like it would make a good tutorial!

                                                         topknot

[Acer Saccharum]

It would make a great tutorial, I just don't have good photos.

[L Moler]

Wait for a Mike Brooks comment.  He is a Type G man.  (Has a tutorial on them on his website if he hasn't removed it..
I have only made one Type G and I used Mike's tutorial to get it right.
http://www.fowlingguns.com/carolinatutorial.html

[Mike Brooks]

Wait for a Mike Brooks comment.  He is a Type G man.  (Has a tutorial on them on his website if he hasn't removed it..
I have only made one Type G and I used Mike's tutorial to get it right.
http://www.fowlingguns.com/carolinatutorial.html

I just shape them the way I do every other gun I build.  Like Mark, I shape my panels with a pattern maker's rasp.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I use a pattern maker's rasp to rough shape the lock panels and wrist. The lock panels form naturally as you shape the wrist, tang, trigger, and forestock areas.  Once the basic profile is done, I use finer half round and full round files to refine the radii of the lock panels.  Then I move to curved scrapers to finish the job. After that is all done and the stock is almost ready for final scraping and stain, then I cut in or outline lock moldings and cut beaver tails.  It does not take very long at all to rough shape the lock panels and wrist of a squared up stock blank using a pattern maker's rasp.  I think Acer has a cell-phone video of me doing this at Dixon's.

dave

[conquerordie]

Well I should have the tools, and with everyone's help I have the know how! I'll post pictures when the gun is complete. Thanks again,
Greg

[okieboy]

 I feel completely ignorant reading this. What is a Type G? What is a Type A, B, C, D, E, or F for that matter? Are these fowlers or trade guns?

[Joe Stein]

Hi,
I use a pattern maker's rasp to rough shape the lock panels and wrist. The lock panels form naturally as you shape the wrist, tang, trigger, and forestock areas.  Once the basic profile is done, I use finer half round and full round files to refine the radii of the lock panels.  Then I move to curved scrapers to finish the job. After that is all done and the stock is almost ready for final scraping and stain, then I cut in or outline lock moldings and cut beaver tails.  It does not take very long at all to rough shape the lock panels and wrist of a squared up stock blank using a pattern maker's rasp.  I think Acer has a cell-phone video of me doing this at Dixon's.

dave

I got to see Dave's demonstration at Dixon's this year.  Fro all I've read, and all the pictures I've seen, nothing showed it as clearly as watching Dave for the short time it took him to shape the lock panels and wrist with a rasp.  It was very enlightening.  Thanks, Dave.  Now if we can only get Acer to put that video up on Youtube and post a link here.
-Joe Stein

[Mike Brooks]

I feel completely ignorant reading this. What is a Type G? What is a Type A, B, C, D, E, or F for that matter? Are these fowlers or trade guns?

Trade guns for the most part. Read Hamilton's "Colonial Frontier Guns".

[okieboy]

 Thanks Mike.