Gene's Black Powder Seasoning Gun Lube

[axelp]

http://www.southparktraders.com

Anyone here use Gene's Black Powder Seasoning Gun Lube? The maker makes some very specific claims as to its performance. Its advertised in Muzzleloader and Muzzleblast.

Are their claims legit?

[WadePatton]

I'm going to repeat what I've seen posted here before about 1001 times over the years-

no, bore SEASONING is hogwash.

also I'll add this freebie:  If it's good, you'll find out real quick from users, NOT sellers.

[volatpluvia]

Yeah, beware of someone informing you that has something to sell you

[jamesthomas]

I'm going to repeat what I've seen posted here before about 1001 times over the years-

no, bore SEASONING is hogwash.

also I'll add this freebie:  If it's good, you'll find out real quick from users, NOT sellers.

 Your right, the only thing you can season is a cast iron pot or skillet.

[Dewey]

Or perhaps an old original iron barrel ... but NOT a modern steel one.

[axelp]

That is why I posted here. I hope to connect to people who have used the product.

I have found that the barrels of my guns that I shoot a lot, tend to be easier to clean. The ones that I do not shoot much, are harder to clean. Not sure if that is "seasoning" however.

My main skepticism is regarding the idea of cleaning a barrel sufficiently with only three spit wet patches... I have a pretty good simple cleaning regimen. I use tepid water and non-petroleum lubes... Not much different than Gene's prescribed process except I plug and fill the barrel with water and let it soak... On my best day, it takes me at least 10 patches, on my worst about 20-25.  Three patches? pretty hard to believe.

To be fair, I will be testing it this month, and will report back.

K  

[Daryl]

That is an interesting, claim, Ken. 3 patches. It takes me 4 to 6 normally.
1 to clean and 3 to 5 at the most to dry, normally 3 or 4 to dry and re-oil. I use a water flush method, pumping the water into and our of the barrel that has it's breech submerged in a container of water. I am currently using a Folger's plastic coffee can as a water container.

[axelp]

if you read their website, they claim that three "spit only" patches will clean the barrel with no pouring water down the barrel at all.  Daryl, 4-6 patches is pretty good! I am lucky if I use twice that number.

My technique is very similar to yours... I flood the plugged bore with tepid water and let it soak a little. Then I pour out and repeat until clear water comes out. Then I swab with a water sopping wet patch, changing patches a few times until the patch comes out clean. I then dry the bore with a couple of patches, and use a couple clean patches soaked in WD40 to displace whatever moisture is left and protect the bore.

I think I could probably get away with using fewer patches than I do---I tend to change to a clean patch quicker than I might need to. But I use patches from old t-shirts and they are thinner. I fold or double them up too.

[hanshi]

Yes, it's a myth, and a sneaky one at that.  And it lives on and on like a vampire.

[Pete G.]

Most miracle cleaners all guarantee a clean gun if you follow the directions, and invariably the last point is:

• Repeat as necessary

[axelp]

Yep. I thought the same thing when I read the directions on the website. Only three patches, repeat as necessary... LOL.

[bgf]

Sounds too good to be true!  I do think, however, that I could get by with 3 patches given a sunny day and a bucket of water: one patch to flush, one to dry (solar assisted), and one more to oil. It wouldn't be perfect job, but I bet the barrel would last longer and shoot better maintained that way than with a bunch of "seasoning" in it ! 

I did try wonderlube as a beginner and had some nice seasoning...  After a week of cleaning and polishing that barrel, I saved it and it is fine, but I can't stand the smell of wonderlube!

[bgf]

That is an interesting, claim, Ken. 3 patches. It takes me 4 to 6 normally.
1 to clean and 3 to 5 at the most to dry, normally 3 or 4 to dry and re-oil. I use a water flush method, pumping the water into and our of the barrel that has it's breech submerged in a container of water. I am currently using a Folger's plastic coffee can as a water container.

I use the big red Folgers plastic cans too!  Just the right size.

[Black Jack]

I use the big red Folgers plastic cans too!  Just the right size.
[/quote]

I flush my barrels in one also.
There are few things as useful as a plastic Folgers can. They are in the same category as duct tape.

[Daryl]

Funny thing, is I do not know where that Folgers can came from. We do not buy Folgers coffee.

[longcruise]

I found the TC 1000 to be a good patch lube and only stopped using it as a price issue.  The "seasoning" claim never made sense though.  I never risked my barrels to test it.

This Gene's lube may likewise be a good lube despite the seasoning claim.

[hanshi]

The reason a frequently fired barrel is easier to clean than a seldom fired one is that the frequently fired one gets smoother and smoother as it is fired.

Seasoning?  Who in the world really wants a crust formed in their bore with rusting going on underneath.  May be a good way to change a .45 to a .36.

[axelp]

In modern guns, "seasoning" a bore is a term used for basically polishing/burnishing the bore with the projectiles over a period of time, so all the burrs and imperfections of the manufacturing process are removed (fire lapping). To me, this makes sense. Some folks help this process along with scotch brite pads, lapping compounds etc.

I would never purposefully leave corrosive fouling in the bore of any gun. The process as described on the Gene's Lube website does include cleaning the gun with wet patches. It says that we should repeat the process until the bore is clean.

I seriously doubt this lube does anything different than any other natural lube would do.

K

[EC121]

In the kitchen "seasoning" is to keep your meat from sticking in a cast iron frying pan.  Maybe you can use the stuff for cooking.     I'm happy with using few more patches and some G96 to finish it off.

[Dphariss]

http://www.southparktraders.com

Anyone here use Gene's Black Powder Seasoning Gun Lube? The maker makes some very specific claims as to its performance. Its advertised in Muzzleloader and Muzzleblast.

Are their claims legit?

"Seasoning" instantly puts it in the snake oil category. I'll put "seasoning" in the name and....(Sigh.... Better just not to say it).
There are so many things that people can get, cheap, to use as patch lube, that have LONG standing reputations, I can't believe anyone buys any of this over priced "stuff".

Dan

[Dphariss]

In modern guns, "seasoning" a bore is a term used for basically polishing/burnishing the bore with the projectiles over a period of time, so all the burrs and imperfections of the manufacturing process are removed (fire lapping). To me, this makes sense. Some folks help this process along with scotch brite pads, lapping compounds etc.

I would never purposefully leave corrosive fouling in the bore of any gun. The process as described on the Gene's Lube website does include cleaning the gun with wet patches. It says that we should repeat the process until the bore is clean.

I seriously doubt this lube does anything different than any other natural lube would do.

K

I hang around with some pretty serious shooters from time to time and some run/work in a shop populated with accuracy types. One of which can shoot chunk gun targets that would be !@*%&@ good anywhere . I have yet the hear the term "seasoning" used other than some ML stuff seen expounded on in print.
If a ML barrel seems a little rough work it over with steel wool or fine scotch brite from an auto parts store (I would use 0000 steel wool as I think it will conform to the bore better) it with a tight jag and a little oil. This will remove any burrs created by hobby home barrel makers or some of the low end foreign made stuff. Or shoot it till they are gone. If this is not enough then lap it with a lead lap and some 320 clover followed by 600 and even finer if the need is felt. But this requires a rod with a true bearing handle the runs free whether pushed or pulled. Coating the inside of a barrel with ANYTHING other oil or other corrosion inhibitor that is removed before loading is invariably detrimental to accuracy. GOOD barrels are carefully made and the barrel maker assures they are correct, uniform state of temper in the steel, uniform in dimension end to end etc. Trying to add something to this, as I have seen "seasoning" described in the past, is just snake oil.

Dan

[axelp]

I have tried it as patch lube and it works fine--good actually.

I am in the process of testing it as a bore preservative, but it will have to perform better than my usual home made lube, or I'd have no reason to buy it.

If you clean your gun thoroughly after shooting and use a decent natural lube to protect it and avoid petroleum solvents and lubes, your gun should be easier to clean--and get easier the more you shoot it? This seems to be the case for me.

I suspect Gene's lube is fine for that purpose--I will report back after I have given it a fair test.

K

[axelp]

Update: I found Gene's lube to be a good patch lube for shooting, but in my experience, it did not have the rust protection I require, so i had to conclude the tests without being able to prove the maker's three patch cleaning claim.

Other people might have different results of course.

[Dphariss]

I have tried it as patch lube and it works fine--good actually.

I am in the process of testing it as a bore preservative, but it will have to perform better than my usual home made lube, or I'd have no reason to buy it.

If you clean your gun thoroughly after shooting and use a decent natural lube to protect it and avoid petroleum solvents and lubes, your gun should be easier to clean--and get easier the more you shoot it? This seems to be the case for me.

I suspect Gene's lube is fine for that purpose--I will report back after I have given it a fair test.

K

I have never, ever, had a problem with petroleum preservatives causing problems of any kind with BP firearms.
The problems occur when the shooter leaves fouling in the bore, oils the bore so the fouling soaks into the stuff then continues to use the firearm, never getting it clean. Adding more and more oiled fouling that is turned into black concrete by the heat and pressure of firing. Usually in the breech.  If the shooter CLEANS the bore and properly oils it (standing the firearm muzzle down over night to let the excess oil drain out is part of this) there is no issue. This is based on starting to shoot MLs in the mid 1960s. I suspect that this problem is promoted by attempting to clean with some of the goo that is on the market as "cleaner and patch lube" rather than actually washing the fouling away with a liquid that is all or almost all water. Various concoctions with water soluble oil (for example) were proven to cause problems with poor cleaning way back in the 1970s. But people keep trying to reinvent the wheel even when its square.

Dan

[axelp]

I use water to clean and then use natural lubes or spit for patching.

I protect my bore in storage with WD40 but only after the bore has been thoroughly cleaned. There are other products that might be better than WD40, but it is what I have on hand and it works good for me. I used to use the old Lehigh Valley Lube formula for a rust inhibitor and it worked quite well but I ran out of it. Ballistol worked good for me too.

K