Stock finish question

[Bill Ladd]

Have a couple rifles on the bench now. Working on approximating this one, except in flint:





I've done a bit if wood finishing in the past and recently got a dark finish on my NC rifle that I'm quite pleased with.

I have a bunch of tiger stripe scrap with which to experiment since I'm cutting from blanks.

How should I best get this light/orangish finish and still have the stripe show up so well?

Thanks fellow enthusiasts

[rich pierce]

Beautiful honey color. Much like the Marshall rifle in tone. Dilute AQF or ferric nitrate crystals would be my choice of stain.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I concur.

[Mike Brooks]

Is that an original Deep River NC gun?

[T*O*F]

I think Dangler used to sell a honey/golden brown stain.  Whomever is selling his products now probably carries it.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I think Dangler used to sell a honey/golden brown stain.  Whomever is selling his products now probably carries it.

Muzzleloader Builders Supply is carrying it.  I just recently used a dark Dangler stain and love it. 

Coryjoe

[Bill Ladd]

Is that an original Deep River NC gun?

Not sure Mike.  It's in the museum here:  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4162.0


So will the Dangler stain make the curl appear well by itself? Or would it follow an AF application?

On my first build, I applied two coats of Track's AF and wound up with this:

[Bill Ladd]

Beautiful honey color. Much like the Marshall rifle in tone. Dilute AQF or ferric nitrate crystals would be my choice of stain.

rich - would you recommend dilution of a commercial product (I just got another bottle of Track's AF)? Or would I be better served to mix some of the homebrew you and others are discussing in the aqua fortis thread?

[bgf]

Is that an original Deep River NC gun?

Not sure Mike.  It's in the museum here:  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4162.0


So will the Dangler stain make the curl appear well by itself? Or would it follow an AF application?

I applied two coats of Track's AF and wound up with this:

Just my opinion, but you are darned close by the time you put on a finish.  The finish brings out the stripes and "chatoyance" of the maple more.  Did you try finishing a scrap stained the same way?

[Bill Ladd]

I haven't yet, but, like I said, i have a ton of scraps from cutting out two blanks. I will be able to do a lot of experimenting.

[bgf]

I haven't yet, but, like I said, i have a ton of scraps from cutting out two blanks. I will be able to do a lot of experimenting.

Will be interested to see what happens.  Excellent looking rifle, too!

[rich pierce]

Bill I would cut commercial AQF in hallf with water. That makes a big difference.

[Squirrel pizza]

Hey Bill, Did you see the pictures Jim Kibler posted under "Some Recent Carving"? Is that the color you're talking about? Maybe Jim could hook you up.

[PPatch]

Wet the off-cheek butt side with water and see what a finish will likely do. Looks to me like you are done with AQ.

dave

[Bill Ladd]

I'm sorry guys. The rifle laying on the old boat is already finished. I just posted that to show what my first effort with aqua fortis delivered.

Sorry if that was misleading.

It's too dark and too brown for what I'm trying to achieve.

This is what I'm shooting for:



It's a ways away.  I've got the stock profile cut out and recently got a 44" .32 barrel from Rice, but that's it.

Just looking for some expert advise on getting that honey blonde finish.

[Bill Ladd]

Hey Bill, Did you see the pictures Jim Kibler posted under "Some Recent Carving"? Is that the color you're talking about? Maybe Jim could hook you up.

I did, but had forgotten about the color.  I will send him a PM.  Thanks.

[JB2]

weren't there some threads (with pics) about using an orange, or yellow stain or dye before using AF and finish?  A couple of years ago?  Or maybe orange without AF?  can't seem to search properly this morning...my fault, not ALR.

[Mike Brooks]

weren't there some threads (with pics) about using an orange, or yellow stain or dye before using AF and finish?  A couple of years ago?  Or maybe orange without AF?  can't seem to search properly this morning...my fault, not ALR.

Maybe it was me. I used to use jim Klien's orange toner as a base then go with some of his browns. I have just started to go with a yellow base and like it a lot more.

[dogcatcher]

Most of this dye, stain etc., is over my head, but if you want some very interesting reading about dyes and wood staining to get various shades and colors go to the pipemakers forum Finishing Techniques section.  http://www.pipemakersforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=35 

There are several days of reading, and taking a lot of notes.   It may not even be a "shade" close to being a period correct method, but the results can be dramatic.   I use some of their techniques on my callmaking, makes inexpensive plain looking wood look expensive.

While on that forum, check out the pipemakers version of "carving" using disc and belt sanders.  It is another process that has been perfected over centuries by pipemakers.  Today they use electric power, but somewhere I read that it was pedal, water and steam power before the electric power came along.  So most of the tools/tooling could be considered period correct.   For this I won't suggest a specific section of the forum, but start with tools and tooling and then stummels.  Again I advise anyone looking to take notes, and reference the sources, if you don't you will waste time looking for it the next time.

[PPatch]

One thing you have to take in to consideration Bill is that no two pieces of curly maple are the same or react quite the same to AQ or even other stains. You said you had plenty of scrap to play with and that is what I would do.

Sneak up on the AQ by diluting it, then perhaps play with a weak brown if your reddish brown tones don't develop with the AQ. Maybe try a stain having yellow in it,  Come to think on it Iodine might work.

Just putting thoughts out there...

dave

[Mark Elliott]

weren't there some threads (with pics) about using an orange, or yellow stain or dye before using AF and finish?  A couple of years ago?  Or maybe orange without AF?  can't seem to search properly this morning...my fault, not ALR.

Maybe it was me. I used to use jim Klien's orange toner as a base then go with some of his browns. I have just started to go with a yellow base and like it a lot more.

I remember reading that a red violin varnish gave the best result when applied over an initial coat of amber varnish.  I guess the same applies to dyes and stains. 

[Mike Brooks]

weren't there some threads (with pics) about using an orange, or yellow stain or dye before using AF and finish?  A couple of years ago?  Or maybe orange without AF?  can't seem to search properly this morning...my fault, not ALR.

Maybe it was me. I used to use jim Klien's orange toner as a base then go with some of his browns. I have just started to go with a yellow base and like it a lot more.

I remember reading that a red violin varnish gave the best result when applied over an initial coat of amber varnish.  I guess the same applies to dyes and stains. 

Works well with a "worn" of "patina" style finish as you can scrub back through the colors in wear areas.