Nitric acid stain

[rogerpjr]

Thought you all may want to watch this video I just watched about using dilute nitric acid for woodworking stain. It is about 25 minutes long and he demos on 8 different woods. I'm not real sure about why he makes negative comments on it's use on highly figured woods at the end, but overall it was good info. Here's the link:

Www.shopsmithacademy.com/ss_archives/ss103/ss103_nitric_acid_stain.htm

[JCurtiss]

Is it just me, or is the link not working?

Also, what is the advantage of an acid-stain over a dye or pigmented type-stain?

[rich pierce]

Is it just me, or is the link not working?

Also, what is the advantage of an acid-stain over a dye or pigmented type-stain?

Not working.  Advantages of an acid stain is that is what was commonly used originally, so the results will be like originals.  It is also color-fast and does not bleach out over time.

[JCurtiss]

Thank you for the reply there Rich.

So other than the fact that the original rifles were acid stained and acid stain will not fade, are there any other advantages?

Also, I'm keen to know if you can achieve that same rich red-brown color with a dye or pigment stain as you can with acid; is it possible?

Thanks,

Jason 

[Bill Ladd]

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS103/SS103_Nitric_Acid_Stain.htm

[JCurtiss]

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS103/SS103_Nitric_Acid_Stain.htm

Great video on finishing wood with nitric acid!

As the original poster of this link stated, the video does not recommend nitric acid for curly maple.  According to the video, nitric acid will dull the contrast between the curl and the rest of the wood.

Have any forum colleagues found this to be the case? 

Jason

[Ky-Flinter]

....  According to the video, nitric acid will dull the contrast between the curl and the rest of the wood.

Have any forum colleagues found this to be the case?  

Jason

Just the opposite.  In my experience nothing makes maple curl "pop" like nitric acid stain.  Many here praise stain made with Ferric Nitrate crystals, but I haven't tried that yet.

-Ron

[JCKelly]

First day of chem lab Autumn 1958 the instructor with cotton gauze over where his eye had been lectured us on safety.

Whilst swabbing that 10% nitric solution do continue to wear the face shield. Better have it on always. Do not treat nitric acid in a casual manner.

After staining the wood there will still be some acid in it. i recall looking at a rifle in the late 1960's, made by one of the legendary contemporary Maryland makers. The brass patchbox was rimmed in a dull red color. Because residual acid had removed the zinc from the brass. I do not know whether or not he had neutralized the acid, even as a dumb youth I knew better than to discuss this matter with The Master.

And storage. Whatever bottle you have, if you store it long time it will give off enough fumes to rust your favorite whatever (rifle, clock &c) in the vicinity. Don't have a good solution but keep the stuff far away from any fine metal objects.

I don't recall how I liked the finish from nitric. Probably did, I liked to play with such stuff. But do treat nitric acid with respect.

[rich pierce]

Thank you for the reply there Rich.

So other than the fact that the original rifles were acid stained and acid stain will not fade, are there any other advantages?

Also, I'm keen to know if you can achieve that same rich red-brown color with a dye or pigment stain as you can with acid; is it possible?

Thanks,

Jason 

In other discussions it's clear that many are more than satisfied with using ferric nitrate crystals which they dissolve in water instead of the saturated aquafortis solutions they make or purchase.  A lot of folks use aniline dyes and like them but some say they fade.  On my first longrifle in 1978 I used a water based stain, Birchwood Casey Colonial Red.  It worked great and has held up.  so there are many approaches.  I enjoy doing it like they did when that is feasible and achievable for me, so use iron saturated AQF.