A newby's experience with Aqua fortis and finishing (pictures added)

[davebozell]

I've been building a TOTW "kit" now for about 3 1/2 years now and finally got up the courage to put some finish on it.  This has definitely been the scariest part of the build for me.  I used Waukon Bay aqua fortis and am now applying Chambers Traditional Oil Stock Finish.  Will I need to apply another oil finish over the Chamber's oil?

 I would not have been able to put the Aqua fortis on this rifle without reading all the posts on this topic on this forum.  I mean really...the stuff comes out of the bottle yellow and quickly turns the whole thing "poplar" green.  Scared me to death.  I'm still trying to figure out how someone figured this all out 200+ years ago.  Thanks to everyone who shares/shared their experiences with this stuff.

[thimble rig]

That's sounds just like me Im also finishing my tow kit up little over 2 years.I f that going to work thing didn't get in the way I might get something done.Im trying the chambers oil finish also.Put the first 2 coats on with a bursh andlet it soak in then 6 light coats rubbed in with your hand.then knock the gloss off if you want a duller finish then wax .

[moleeyes36]

Dave,

If you haven't neutralized that Waukon Bay stuff yet with an application of household ammonia, I suggest you do that before applying any finish.  Most of the commercial solutions called aqua fortis are pretty acidic and can continue to darken the wood for weeks if not neutralized.

Chambers Traditional Oil Finish is excellent and all you will need to finish the stock.  Follow the instructions and don't put it on heavy.  If you want to take off some of the shine, wait a few days after the final coat and lightly rub it out with mineral oil and rottenstone. 

Mole Eyes

[davebozell]

Forgot to mention that I used ammonia to neutralize the AF.  Good thing too, as I could definitely see a reaction.  Chamber's instructions said to put on a heavy first coat and wipe off the excess, which I also did.  I applied it with my finger so that I could rub it in some as I went.  Looks like I'll put on several coats over the next week or so and see how it turns out.  Thanks for the advice.

[Dennis Glazener]

Will I need to apply another oil finish over the Chamber's oil?

No, Chamber's Oil is fine for a final finish. I love the stuff and how it looks when finished.
Dennis

[davebozell]

Okay, so here's some pictures of the progress so far:

This a is what the rifle looked like after the AF was applied.  More than a little yellow going on...

A little heat gun action...

After neutralizing with ammonia and drying overnight.  Yikes!

First coat of Chamber's oil.  This just might work out after all!

[Dennis Glazener]

Dave,
I know you don't want to hear this right now but unless its the photo it looks to me like you either did not get enough heat on the AF down near the toe or maybe there was not enough AF. You could probably fix the problem easier now than later.
Dennis

[Mark Elliott]

Dave,
I know you don't want to hear this right now but unless its the photo it looks to me like you either did not get enough heat on the AF down near the toe or maybe there was not enough AF. You could probably fix the problem easier now than later.
Dennis

I think it just didn't absorb as much AF.  I see some other similar areas.  Perhaps a touch up in the toe with some dilute AF might be in order.    One thing about a water stain,  it can be blended.    Also,  AF will penetrate a plain oil finish.   I don't know about Chambers.

[davebozell]

There did seem to some areas that absorbed better than others.  The toe that you mentioned is one of them.  I did apply two coats of AF, so hopefully I applied enough.  It is possible that I didn't get enough heat there as I was trying not to scorch anything.  As I mentioned earlier, I have several areas that are going to need some extra attention to blend in because of the repairs needed to fix my mistakes.  My current plan is to start doing the needed blending now that the first coat of oil has been applied.  Some of those areas are going to need more than just aqua fortis.  I also plan to "wear down" areas where the rifle would have seen extra handling.  I also plan to use water-based stain in the inlet areas.  Is my thinking reasonable?  Thanks for all the advice.

[Mark Elliott]

The thing about water stains like AF is that they aren't even.   That is both a blessing and a curse.   I find it allows the charm of the wood to show through.   Don't go to to much trouble to try to make it all even.   You do need to get AF hot to fully change, but you can overdo it and  char or crack the wood.     You probably applied the heat correctly.    Some use other types of finishes where they want a more even finish.   There are lots of approaches to finishing.    For period finishes there are water stains and oil varnishes,  and spirit varnishes.     

[davebozell]

Thanks Mark.  I won't stress over it too much.  I'll spend more time trying to hide my mistakes.  The AF has done a pretty good job of hiding some of my problems already.

[Mike Brooks]

Looks good to me. Just learned I was doing this wrong all these years. I always neutralize with a baking soda slurry...   I'll have to call Mark Silver and tell him he's been doing this wrong all these years.

[davebozell]

Mike, no matter how you finish your fowlers and rifles, I am sure I am not the only builder (there's a stretch) that aspires to obtain the finish that you do.  I was pleased with how easy the ammonia was to use compared to the baking soda method I have used to neutralize browning solution in the past.

[davebozell]

Here's some more pictures as I progress:

First coat sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and black simulated milk paint applied in strategic areas.  This is my version of Mike Brooks' flat black spray paint treatment.

Most of the black removed.

Third coat of oil applied.  Getting closer now.  (I think I took care of that light spot, Dennis.)