starting a New England fowler Updated Again

[smart dog]

Hi Folks,

I am starting to build a cherry-stocked New England fowler using wood that I logged and milled 37 years ago, a Getz 46" 20ga smoothbore barrel, and a 1720-1730s English flintlock that I built from castings provided by Blackleys.  I wanted to show how I secure such a long stock to my bench for planing and inletting the barrel.  I hold it between the leg vises and support the middle with a block of wood anchored to the sliding deadman with a holdfast.  I can move the support block back and forth wherever I need support.  My task lamp is mounted to a block of wood with a heavy dowel in it so it can be placed in any of the holes on my bench top and moved to where I need it.  I retrofitted the wooden leg vises with chain drives made by Boatman53.  They work really slick and I no longer have to manually adjust the parallel guides on the vise chops.  The stock is held absolutely rigid.  For those of you contemplating building a bench or shop space, I thought this example might give you some ideas.

dave  

[Mike Brooks]

Nice set up, beats mine. Nice job not hitting the center of that target, that's really hard shooting all the way around it like that..... I can do it too....

[Boatman53]

Hi Dave. I was wondering how those chains were working out for you.  I think most people once they get them installed and don't have to fool with the pin anymore, why the just forget they are there. And there is very little talk about them after the fact. Glad they are working well for you.
Jim

[wattlebuster]

That sure beats the old 3 dollar yard sale vice that I have used in the past. Darn nice setup. I really like it

[Joe S.]

I'll say,I'm jealous

[smart dog]

Hi Jim,
The chain drives are awesome. I had to do a little adapting because my guides are below the stretchers but installation was very easy.  My biggest challenge was that I rested the bench on its side to install the drives and then could not lift the beast up by myself.  I had to wait for my neighbors oldest sons to help me right it. Thanks a bunch for them.

Mike, it is a sweet set up and my target is actually much better than it appears. My rifle was initially roughly sighted in at 100 yards but that target was shot at 50 from a rest on a bench.  I had trouble with the barrel cutting the patches and causing blow by.  I lapped the bore several times and crowned the bore to soften the lands. Then I had to figure out the best patch thickness.  The scatter was caused by front sight adjustment to the left and using different patch thicknesses.  Finally, I got it all right and you can see a little group at 6 o'clock midway down the orange.  That is 8 or 10 shots with the point of aim at the bottom of the scoring area.  My next session will be back to 100 yards and I should have the rifle dialed in.

dave  

[Mike Brooks]

I was just funnin' ya. I spent alot of trigger time at the 100 yard bench this year, some days real good, some days not so much...

[smart dog]

Hi Mike,
I understand completely and believe me, feel free to rib me anytime you like.  I just wanted to let you know the details. That rifle, the Star of Bethlehem shoots really well now but the barrel needed some work. 

dave

[smart dog]

Hi,
This is the lock I am using.  It was made from a set of castings from E. J. Blackley in England.  Kevin Blackley produces beautiful cast parts.  This one is an early Griffin lock (Benjamin) from the period 1725-1740 or so.  I installed a frizzen spring from Chamber's small round-faced English lock and made the mainspring and sear spring.  I also made all of the screws.  The first photo below shows the lock in relation to Chamber's large round-faced English lock. The lock geometry is very good.  The mainspring came out great.  It is whippy and strong but has a light touch at full cock.   Bob Roller if you see this, I pay attention to what you say.  The internal parts are case hardened and of course the springs have been heat treated. I still have to polish everything and case harden the plate, flintcock, and frizzen, and harden all the screw heads.

dave

 

[Mike Brooks]

Cool lock. I like the shape of the lower edge, very early.

[Bob Roller]

Hi,
This is the lock I am using.  It was made from a set of castings from E. J. Blackley in England.  Kevin Blackley produces beautiful cast parts.  This one is an early Griffin lock (Benjamin) from the period 1725-1740 or so.  I installed a frizzen spring from Chamber's small round-faced English lock and made the mainspring and sear spring.  I also made all of the screws.  The first photo below shows the lock in relation to Chamber's large round-faced English lock. The lock geometry is very good.  The mainspring came out great.  It is whippy and strong but has a light touch at full cock.   Bob Roller if you see this, I pay attention to what you say.  The internal parts are case hardened and of course the springs have been heat treated. I still have to polish everything and case harden the plate, flintcock, and frizzen, and harden all the screw heads.

dave

 

Considering the time frame it operated in when new,this was as good as it needed to be and this one looks good to me.
I like the sear spring and the mainspring looks good too.The castings I have seen that came from England usually look like they were done in a mould made from mud. Did these parts look like this when you bought them or have you dressed them up as you made the lock. Back about 1968 I made a pair of Manton flintlocks for Tom Dawson to use on a double rifle and these parts were absolutely wretched.Plates were too soft and too thin and it took a long time to get them to fire right . Some foundry in England had made these for Dixie and they were advertised in their catalogs for years,
Good luck with the project and post as to the performance of the lock if you can.

Bob Roller

[rich pierce]

Outstanding work on that lock!  You have a real gift or have a ton of experience forging and shaping.  The springs are really elegant and look like their function should be superb.

[smart dog]

Hi Bob and Mike,
Thanks for looking and commenting.  Bob, the castings from Blackley were very good. I cleaned up and of course file fitted the parts but Kevin Blackley does a good job.  His plates and flintcocks are usually mild steel maybe 1018 and his frizzens are 1095.  I do not know what the internal parts are made of but I case harden them regardless.  I used 1075 steel bar for the springs.  The lock originally had "Griffin" engraved on the plate and the casting preserved that engraving very nicely.  I will of course engrave "Smart Dog" in that spot instead.

Thanks Rich,  with the exception of my programmable heat treating oven, my set up is shockingly simple: MAPP gas torch, ball peen hammer, pliers, hack saw, files, and polishing stones. I turn my screws and other parts using a wood lathe, files, and stones.  I use the hand skills my dad taught me ages ago in lieu of machines.  But I am slooowwwwwww.

dave
 
 

[PPatch]

I will be following your build Dave and thank you for posting your progress so far. Looks like you have a good start, love that bench and the vice arrangements. One thing I have picked up on is the lamp with a peg that can be moved where ever using the holdfast holes - you clever devil you!

dave

[Acer Saccharum]

The ALR team is going to have to make an on-site inspection of this project.....

[Bill Paton]

Last month, I was forced into the duty of an ALR on-site inspection of Bella’s (Smart Dog’s) shop. It turned out to be a pleasant and impressive experience. The shop was roomy and sunny, warm on a snowy day, organized into separate wood and metal working areas, and in spite of an obvious high output of work, was tidy and clean. The annealing and tempering oven was demonstrated successfully. Impressive views of Vermont’s mountains were wonderful bonuses. The obviously intelligent dog was friendly and welcoming, as was her companion, the “Person” (pun intended). It was worth the drive from Alaska, Acer!

 ALR Trip Report respectfully submitted by Bill Paton, Anchorage, Alaska.

[smart dog]

Hi Folks,

Thanks Bill and Acer.  Bill you forgot to mention that Smart Dog is a passable cook.  We really enjoyed your visit and I hope you get that book published. Please come again and If I make it to Alaska again, I'll be ringing your doorbell.

Well, the barrel, barrel tang, ramrod groove and hole are done.  I'll post some pics soon, but I have a question.  The gun is for a very active re-enactor, living and published historian. It is supposed to represent a gun made no later than 1755 so it can represent a firearm carried during the F&I war and by a minuteman during Lexington and Concord.  Anyway, what do you guys suggest for a buttplate.  The stock will be modeled after the "Cookson" fowler with an upgraded lock.  I originally thought of making a simple buttplate by beating a piece of sheet brass into an "L" and doming it slightly.  The Cookson fowler has a simple buttplate extension.  What do you think?

dave  

[Mike Brooks]

Sheet brass. Refer to Glenslade's Fowling Gun book.

[smart dog]

Thanks Mike,
Sheet brass it is.  Looking at Grinslade's book, it seems that many were flat but a few were domed slightly. I think my preference is to dome it a little.  When I shoot my 17th century fowler, which has a flat buttplate, I end up with a bruise the shape of a crease in my shoulder.  It also appears that most did not have a bulge at the heel.  They look like they were just bent in a right angle.  Is my impression correct, Mike?

dave

[Mike Brooks]

Thanks Mike,
Sheet brass it is.  Looking at Grinslade's book, it seems that many were flat but a few were domed slightly. I think my preference is to dome it a little.  When I shoot my 17th century fowler, which has a flat buttplate, I end up with a bruise the shape of a crease in my shoulder.  It also appears that most did not have a bulge at the heel.  They look like they were just bent in a right angle.  Is my impression correct, Mike?

dave

For the most part you are correct. A couple hints for "domed" sheet brass BP's. ANNEAL! LOTS! Form your buttstock with the dome or curve you want to end up with. Then install your BP and beat it up against the stock so it assumes the curved shape of the stock. It always seems that disaster is right around the corner but with patience they have always turned out.

[Dale Campbell]

If I remember correctly, EK had examples of lead being poured into the hump after forming, but before fitting, to support the hump.

[Mike Brooks]

If I remember correctly, EK had examples of lead being poured into the hump after forming, but before fitting, to support the hump.

That's fine if you shape the buttplate independently  and then mount it to the stock. I don't do it that way, I shape the stock the way I want the BP to look then mount the sheet on the stock and screw it down then beat it down till it is in place , or something to that effect....actually not as easy as it  sounds...

[thimble rig]

That's a good looking shop  you have.Its set up so nice and its clean too.Thanks for the pictures.I learn a lot off you guys on here.Ireally appericate it.

[smart dog]

Hi Folks,
I made some progress.  I am about ready to inlet the trigger guard and sideplate.  After that it is file, scrape and finish.  I still have quite a bit of wood to remove and the lock panels will eventually be so narrow that they almost disappear.  I also will carve around the barrel tang.  I made all the hardware except the barrel and trigger guard.  I loved beating the sheet brass buttplate into submission.  That was fun.  I attached it with screws, which will be partially counter sunk and the heads filed off.  Or maybe I'll leave little sharp nubs that will cause great pain to the shooter.  Just a thought. The stock has bad run out at the wrist.  I wish I could have tipped the muzzle further down to improve the grain direction but the plank was too narrow.  So I will put 2 big bubba wood screws under the trigger guard, which should take care of that issue.

dave

[Mike Brooks]

Could I have that when you're done? I want to build one of those but don't have the time.