Inletting Question

[WV_Mountaineer]

In inletting my trigger, I have ran into a problem.  Both ends are flush or slightly below for sanding, but I have some exposure in the middle.  It is more exposed on the lock side than the other side.  I have already broken one of these cast plates trying to bend it.  Should I try to file down the plate in this already weak region or are there other approaches.  Or is it not significant enough to worry about because it is under the trigger guard?  I realize craftsmanship is a personal decision, but would like your opinions, as well.  I also want to Thank you, in advance, as this site and feedback are really appreciated.

[Larry Luck]

Your point about craftsmanship is well taken, and I may reveal my own shortcomings with my next comment.
It doesn't have to be perfect as long as it looks perfect.  There, I said it.  (Added comment:  I'm speaking of visually and not the mechanical aspects.  LEL)

It looks like the trigger plate is about 1/32 proud.  I have unabashedly filed away portions of set trigger plates to get them flush.  Maybe not quite this much, but I can't see for sure.

If I was uncertain about filing the plate flush, I think I'd cheat.  I'd probably inlet the plate a little deeper, maybe 1/2 to 1/3 of the difference, then adjust the wood on the ends, because you are only talking 1/64 or so-tapering the adjustment for a couple inches ahead and behind the plate, and maybe round the plate a little so the edges are flush but there would be a slight arc across the plate. 

And maybe just the last thing.  There will be some curvature to that part of the transition between lower forestock and wrist anyway.

Good luck,

Larry Luck

[wvmtnman]

When I have ran into this problem before I have just simply inlet the plate deeper into the stock.  I do not like to have any metal parts fitting proud of the wood at this stage.  If the forward part of the plate is all lined up on the bottom, (straight line to where entry themble will go) inlet the rear section deeper.  It is always easier to reshape the toe line. 
                                                                         Brian

[David Rase]

I have used two methods in the past to get the set trigger plate to line up with the curvature of the stock.  1. You can file the front and rear of the trigger plate from the underside thinning it until the center is flush.  2.  You can strip the trigger assembly down to the plate and re-bend the trigger plate to the curvature of the stock.  I have used the second methodmore often then the first.  Because the trigger plate is thicker in the area between the two triggers a little heat applied to the spot that needs the tweak helps out tremendously.  There is normally enough adjustment in the set catches to accommodate this small additional curve in the trigger plate
DMR

[David Veith]

I would do as David subject unless when I bend it it forms a gap that doesn't get cover by the trigger Gard At the same time I wouldn't be afraid to file it away in a heat beat.
Da

[T*O*F]

If you don't bend the plate right, you will throw the triggers out of phase, causing more problems than you want.  It will also throw your tang screw hole out of whack.  Proceed cautiously.

[rich pierce]

Real common problem.  For me, the best way has alwayse been to bend the trigger plate outside the regions occupied by the triggers and bend while red hot.  Then once it is close, file away till it's right.  Don't be bashful about giving the trigger plate a slightly rounded cross section either.

[max]

I had the same problem but was reluctant to file down the trigger plate as it would come too close to the trigger pins. Heating and bending was the answer, but a propane torch had too wide a flame and would put the areas where the trigger cutouts were in jeoparday. Fortunately I have a friend with a oxy acetylene torch who used a very small flame too localize the areas to be bent and it worked out beautifully. The trigger assembly had to be stripped of course, but once done it only took a few minutes.

[George F.]

I bend it best I can, then after the internals are removed I file it flush with the stock.  ...Geo.

[keweenaw]

Just heat the sucker red hot right behind the rear trigger and bend it.  The last one of these Davis triggers I put in had to be bent a lot  more than what you'll have to bend this one.   I always leave the pins in when I'm bending stuff like this to avoid distorting the holes.

Tom

[J.D.]

I have an old set of Davis triggers with an instruction sheet, of sorts, that says the triggers and plate are made of hardened tool steel and need to be bent with heat, as others have said. Davis also recommends rehardening those parts.

The instruction sheet also mentions that spare parts are readily available from Davis.
I wonder if he is trying to tell us something?

[keweenaw]

The Davis triggers are hardened, if you try to bend one short of red hot it will break.  The plate obviously isn't hard as if it were you couldn't drill and tap it for your tang screw, etc.  But the plate is thick enough that it is  much easier to bend hot.