Author Topic: Sett Trigger Finish  (Read 4780 times)

JCurtiss

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Sett Trigger Finish
« on: December 11, 2015, 10:31:12 PM »
I'm wondering what the finish should be on sett triggers for a flintlock based on the York school?

Should the triggers be blued, browned or left white? And if a blue/brown finish is recommended, I assume the trigger would need to be disassembled before applying the finish?  Are there any tips to driving out the pins on Davis sett triggers? I noticed the pins on one side are sanded/machined flush with the base of the trigger, but on the other side the pins are set slightly below the base. So should the pins be driven out with a punch on the unfinished side of the pins?

Thanks!

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2015, 10:44:53 PM »
I'm wondering what the finish should be on sett triggers for a flintlock based on the York school?

Should the triggers be blued, browned or left white? And if a blue/brown finish is recommended, I assume the trigger would need to be disassembled before applying the finish?  Are there any tips to driving out the pins on Davis sett triggers? I noticed the pins on one side are sanded/machined flush with the base of the trigger, but on the other side the pins are set slightly below the base. So should the pins be driven out with a punch on the unfinished side of the pins?

Thanks!

The reason for the unfinished side and short pins is to allow easier removal of them. I always short pinned
my triggers for this reaon.

Bob Roller

Online L. Akers

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2015, 11:24:05 PM »
 I would place the punch in the recessed side and drive the pins toward the flush side.  The pin holes are probably parallel so the pins will drive either way but the recess provides a guide for the end of the punch so the edge of the hole won't get boogered up.

JCurtiss

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2015, 11:38:54 PM »
Thank you there Bob Roller and L. Akers.

So should the finish on the trigger match the barrel or the lock or???

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2015, 12:00:33 AM »
Thank you there Bob Roller and L. Akers.

So should the finish on the trigger match the barrel or the lock or???
I just cold blue them. Reason? Easy peasy. nothing else.
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JCurtiss

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2015, 12:02:18 AM »
Thank you there Bob Roller and L. Akers.

So should the finish on the trigger match the barrel or the lock or???
I just cold blue them. Reason? Easy peasy. nothing else.

Will do; thanks boss!

Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2015, 03:17:21 AM »
Unless the gun is to be heavily aged as in most of the iron mounted guns I do,  I like to heat blue my triggers and lock screws.    I throw them in the heat treat oven and run the temp to 560 F.   The result is usually pretty good.   However, these parts must be polished to a mirror finish and degreased for the best result.    If you do this, the finish is pretty durable.  A heat blue looks like $#*! and flakes off unless the surface is perfect.   A cold blue would probably be easier, but it doesn't look the same.   Heat blued triggers and lock screws can really make a nice carved and engraved rifle pop.   

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2015, 03:20:15 AM »
I do as Mark does with the triggers themselves, and some of the gun's screws.  But the plate, I finish as I do the rest of the furniture.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2015, 11:33:47 PM »
I do as Mark does with the triggers themselves, and some of the gun's screws.  But the plate, I finish as I do the rest of the furniture.

Taylor,  I only heat blue the triggers and external lock screws.   I finish lock plates bright and then add patina as required.   One of these days soon, I am going to try a color case.    I have everything I need to do it except the courage.    ;)   

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2015, 11:49:44 PM »
Mark I was only referring to the trigger assembly.  I too finish locks bright, unless the plate and hammer are pack hardened.

Don't let fear or good sense stop you from trying pack hardening!!
« Last Edit: December 13, 2015, 03:30:38 AM by Acer Saccharum »
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2015, 03:32:03 AM »
Experiment on something that does not matter. It's not hard to do, and you'll learn a lot about the setup for successful pack hardening.
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Offline Mark Elliott

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2015, 03:38:06 AM »
Mark I was only referring to the trigger assembly.  I too finish locks bright, unless the plate and hammer are pack hardened.

Don't let fear or good sense stop you from trying pack hardening!!

I don't have good sense.   I build 200 year old guns.   ;D

Offline shortbarrel

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #12 on: December 15, 2015, 01:23:45 AM »
When I make a set trigger, I Polish the triggers to about 600 grit and case harden them. The plate, I usually leave bright or brown. The finish on the triggers is left as is.

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Sett Trigger Finish
« Reply #13 on: December 15, 2015, 03:21:18 PM »
When I make a set trigger, I Polish the triggers to about 600 grit and case harden them. The plate, I usually leave bright or brown. The finish on the triggers is left as is.
I don't think 600 grit paper has ever been in my shop! ;D
NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?