Gun made by Rob in NZ

[JTR]

I'm posting these pictures for him.

[Willbarq]

Details, looks like it has been finished a while.

[greybeard]

Is it a fowler or a rifle??     Bob

[Rob]

Details, looks like it has been finished a while.

It is a smoothie and yes it has been used a bit but most of the marks you can see  was done after the build and  has been done in the gun cupboard ( police requirement and it has to be locked ) was caused by other gun stuff being moved in and out  I am not looking for compliments just let me know what is bad and if there is anything that is close enough for jazz  .. Rob

[bob in the woods]

Lots to like, but there is way too much wood left to take off.  Look at some of the guns of the period, and compare yours to them and you can see how and where to slim it down. Or....you could build another one 

[Dave B]

Rob its great to see what others around the globe are doing to feed their inner Gunsmith.  What is the bore size of the piece? The bee hive transition of the octagon to round section is very different. It makes the impression that its a two piece barrel. I assume there is an under rib though there might not be one. I could see how it would be difficult to transition to that bee hive section with the under rib. Is your barrel tapered from the breach to the hive section? I have worked with some barrels that were all most straight given the taper was so mild from breach to wedding band. so the area that goes forward from the wedding band ends up looking weird as it is tapering forward to the muzzle. I would suggest making more of a taper from the octagonal breach to the transition hive transition area and not such a large drop in barrel size. What did you use for the end of the fore stock? It looks like it could be a whale tooth. I see you made and extension of wood between the entry pipe and the fore end. The color match is pretty close so not so noticeable from a distance but is at closer inspection. I have had to lengthen some of my stocks due to running out of stock at the muzzle end of longrifes and have spliced the stock but covered it up with the muzzle cap on two occasions. You have to make sure your able to get the wood to accommodate the barrel length. My last barrel that caused the trouble was  51.5" over all. The wood I got for the project was short by an inch.   It only takes a little more wood and glue to make it all right.

[Rob]

Hi Dave , the barrel was bored 5/* of an inch and is not tapered at the breech end and the bit at that you can't see is left round  ..Looking at originals here is not much of an option they are about as rare  here as martian women  .. the bit at the muzzle is bone and  yes my bit of wood was just that much short  .part of the problem is  I put it all together without a drawing I know ,  not a good way to do things , but working by the cut and ruin method just comes naturally to me  I will try and curb my enthusiasm in future  ...I am stated on making a half stock rifle  the but this time I do have a dimensioned  drawing of an Alex Henry ..  I have started on the lock ,got the plate cut out the mainspring frizen and cock made .but am stalled for a bit getting my rifling rig sorted  ..  I am on my own with nobody closer than the Austrlia or the US  to lean on and looking at pictures just does not fill the bill thanks for the positives  Rob

[flinchrocket]

You can get good information on rifling from Toad Hall Rifleshop (Steve Bookout ). Looks like he will
trade a copy of his dvd for an old license plate from  New Zealand.

[Rob]

You can get good information on rifling from Toad Hall Rifleshop (Steve Bookout ). Looks like he will
trade a copy of his dvd for an old license plate from  New Zealand.

Thanks for the heads up but I have previously rifled several barrels  using several sine bar configurations  ,the one I am building at the moment is mark 4  The first  barrel was made from an old time ford steering column in high tensile steel it was .69 cal and an underhammer  still have the barrel but the rest has gone   Rob