Author Topic: Rust bluing questions  (Read 8373 times)

rogerpjr

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Rust bluing questions
« on: December 30, 2015, 05:47:10 PM »
I few a few questions on rust bluing.

1. Can boiling water just be poured over the barrel or is it necessary to boil it for a while?

2. What do you guys use to boil long (42"+) barrels in?

3. How do you heat the water in long tank like above?

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2015, 05:59:11 PM »
Yes it does have to be immersed in boiling water. I use a tin chicken feeder with the end seams soldered up for a boiling tank. I now have a three burner Expedition three camp stove that works great. I used the gas range in our kitchen years ago by angling the chicken feeder so it had two burners under it. The wife was glad to let me buy the camp stove, just so I'd get the gun shop out of the kitchen.

   Hungry Horse

Offline L. Akers

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2015, 06:16:16 PM »
The barrel needs to be boiled for 20-25 minutes to allow time for the FE2O3 (red) to be converted to FE3O4 (black). Use only iron or stainless tanks for boiling.  Long tanks and heaters are available from Brownell's--see their website.  Be sure to card ALL the rust off after boiling.  Doing so will give you a more durable and more rust resistant finish.  I use a wire wheel with .005" diameter wires for carding.  Brownell's also has carding wheels.

Offline David Rase

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2015, 07:14:11 PM »
The wife was glad to let me buy the camp stove, just so I'd get the gun shop out of the kitchen.
 Hungry Horse
I had to laugh at your comment.  I also got to buy a 3 burner camp chef stove.  My days of angling a container across the kitchen stove are history.  :D
David

Offline L. Akers

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2015, 07:22:45 PM »
Hungry Horse is your tin feeder coated with anything?  I said use only iron or stainless because there are materials which will affect finish, ie copper, aluminum, zinc.  Tin opens other, cheaper avenues.

Offline davec2

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2015, 07:26:42 PM »
Don't need to actually boil the barrel.  Check out the information on this link:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=30151.0
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Offline snapper

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2015, 07:29:15 PM »
I use a down spout that is cut open with 90 degree elbows on the ends  you can make it as long as you want.

I use a LP camp stove

fleener
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Hemo

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2015, 08:00:02 PM »
I have done a semi-rust blue using LMF degreaser/brown, allowing a good coat of rust to form, then boiling a pot of water and scalding the finish by slowly pouring the boiling water over the length of the barrel, then carding off with rough denim patches. Result is not a blue-black, but generally darker than one can get with browning solution alone.
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Color comes out a deep chocolate after several repetitions. Barrel is then heated all over with a propane torch and oiled, waxed.

Good luck,

Gregg

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2015, 08:10:21 PM »
Gregg that barrel finish looks very fine.  Would love to see more of this rifle perhaps in a separate post.  Have you shown it here?

I use a length of end post for a chain link fence to boil the barrels to turn blue. Pop an end cap on the bottom, put the barrel in, fill with rainwater and stick it in a fire.
Andover, Vermont

Offline PPatch

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2015, 08:21:37 PM »
I use a length of guttering bought from the Big Box store. Sealed the ends with the caps sold with the gutter with silicone only. I boiled the (well water) over a two burner propane BBQ grill. City water can cause problems so store bought distilled water is recommended. My well water works fine. Small parts can be boiled in an old sauce pan, I go at least 10 minutes, give it a little more if I'm in the mood. There comes a point where it isn't going to get any darker.

There is a method of using PVC pipe vertically, the bottom sealed with PVC cement and a cap. The sealed barrel is placed in the pipe and boiling water poured in, repeat as you see fit.

What you'll get is a black coat with brownish undertone, there isn't any blue in it. It is very durable.

dave

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Offline jerrywh

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2015, 08:33:48 PM »
 I suggest you use distilled water.  Some places the water is ok but others not so.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2015, 12:50:15 AM by jerrywh »
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Offline flinchrocket

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2015, 11:16:47 PM »
I suggest you use distilled water.  Some places the water id ok but others not so.
I would not buy a cheap brand. I have tried that with not so good results.

Offline Kevin Houlihan

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2015, 02:33:23 AM »
Is there a formula or method one can use to obtain a finish that is more blue than black?  I've done a barrel using Wahkon Bay rust blue and the barrel was more "rust black". However it's very durable.
Thanks
Kevin

Offline FDR

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2015, 03:04:14 AM »
If you want blue go to Brownells and look at the solutions they sell to blue double barrel shotguns. They also sell the salts to fire blue small parts such as screws. Both work!

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #14 on: December 31, 2015, 04:13:46 AM »
I've never had any trouble using galvanized chicken feeder, with the end soldered up.

  Hungry Horse

Offline L. Akers

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #15 on: December 31, 2015, 06:45:26 AM »

There is a method of using PVC pipe vertically, the bottom sealed with PVC cement and a cap. The sealed barrel is placed in the pipe and boiling water poured in, repeat as you see fit.

What you'll get is a black coat with brownish undertone, there isn't any blue in it. It is very durable.[/quote]

The brown undertones are because the barrel was NOT boiled and all the FE2O3 was not converted to FE3O4. 

Offline SR James

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #16 on: December 31, 2015, 07:05:30 AM »
What you say is no doubt true. However, my technique of scalding the barrel with boiling distilled water in the horizontal PVC pipe (shown in my post in the link provided above by davec2) gives me a deep black with no brown undertones. I've blued a number of barrels this way and have never gotten a brown color. I use Mark Lee express rust blue. So, at least in my experience, it is not necessary to actually boil the barrel in a tank to get good results.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2015, 07:06:29 AM by SR James »

Offline L. Akers

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Re: Rust bluing questions
« Reply #17 on: December 31, 2015, 05:14:04 PM »
I'll have to give this method a try.  I think I'll insulate the pipe to hold in more heat.