Iron Nitrate

[JCurtiss]

Well, I'm getting to that point in my rifle project where I need to apply Iron Nitrate to the stock. 

My question is: how should I apply it? Should I use a paint brush, a dobber, or perhaps a cloth of some sort or...?

How do you all apply Iron Nitrate to gun stocks?

Thanks!

Jason

[davebozell]

I wore rubber gloves and used "make-up" pads that I swiped from the wife.  They're about 2" in diameter and about a 1/4 inch thick.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I tear a piece of old bath towel about 2 1/2" wide and five inches long, fold it into three and hold it with hemostats.  I slather the juice on the wood, let it dry, and blush it with a good heat gun.  Careful around edges and corners for fear of scorching the wood black.

[moleeyes36]

Muzzleloader Builders' Supply has inexpensive swabs that work well for this and other things http://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/mbs3cart/agora.cgi?cart_id=2735784.562&p_id=16960&xm=on

Mole Eyes

[JCurtiss]

Thank you all for the suggestions!

Jason

[smart dog]

Hi Jason,
I simply use a small (3/4") artist's paint brush.  The brush makes it easier to slop the stain in and around carving and corners.  My ferric nitrate is dissolved in water so a water rinse cleans the brush.  I also wear latex or nitrile gloves.  A heat gun on low to moderate heat works the best although a propane torch with a spreader nozzle will do the job with care.  Finally, thoroughly blush the stain.  It may take a little time under heat to bring out the full color.  Just keep the heat source moving slowly but constantly to prevent burning.

dave

[JCurtiss]

Thank you for the small-brush idea there Smart Dog; that's what I used.

So do I need to neutralize the Iron Nitrate after it's been applied? And if so, will brushing on a solution of baking soda and water be the way to go?   

Thanks!

Jason

[smallpatch]

If you're using ferric nitrate from crystals, there is no need to neutralize.  
It works the same as aqua fortis, without the hassles.
Either way, don't neutralize before you blush.

[smart dog]

Hi Jason,
Wipe the stock with ammonia or paint it with baking soda and water.  Theoretically, once you blush the stain with heat, the hydrogen ions should be gone and there is no need to neutralize the stain.  However, I wipe with ammonia just in case. 

dave

[Pete G.]

I use the wool daubers that are sold for leather dye. Neutralize with ammonia and you won't have to worry about brushing white baking soda out of every small crack and crevice.

[JCurtiss]

Thank you for the ammonia tip, guys! 

[Mark Elliott]

I use little foam applicators that I buy by the bag off Amazon.   http://www.amazon.com/Swab-its-Rectangular-Foam-Cleaning-Detailing/dp/B004FJOOGI/ref=b2b_pd_bia_a1_4_p?ie=UTF8&pf_rd_i=b2b-desktop&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2211842782&pf_rd_r=0Z0VMEXRMSQBBVJQRFGM&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_t=B2BGateway&refRID=0Z0VMEXRMSQBBVJQRFGM   I use them for apply all sorts of liquid finishes on wood and metal.