Which glue will work best for this repair?

[Jerry V Lape]

About half way into the inlet for the breech plug bolster the corner of the wood which forms the corner at the tang and barrel chipped off.  And I was being so careful around those corners!  Which glue will survive in this place best?   I am concerned since  the chip extends into the breech contact area and will have to hold up against recoil and the routine removal and replacement of the barrel periodically.  The chip is sort of an upside down 3 sided pyramid approx. 3/8" tall with the base of the pyramid forming the corner.  There is probably 1/4 of a square inch of contact in the break. 

[smallpatch]

Wood glue.  Don't overthink this.  I prefer Titebond over Elmers, but both will work.

Keep your chisels sharp!!! 

[GANGGREEN]

I'm going through the same thing.  I have a strange grain going through the lockplate area on a gun I'm building and I had issues with the same spot you're talking about and the area just in front of the frizzen where the wood meets the side barrel flat.  I don't think it was an issue with dull chisels in my case, I think I just had wood that was going to split darn it.  The area to the rear of the fence isn't too bad and I'll figure something out to mend it, but the area in front of the frizzen chipped and broke off a couple of times.  I just laid it to the side until I was done with the lock inlet, removed the lockplate and then glued with Titebond and clamped it.  I haven't done anything with the stock since then and hope that it took.  Good luck with yours.

[smokinbuck]

I would agree with the Titebond.
Mark

[JCurtiss]

I used Titebond for chip-out I had recently.

If you're interested in using a "period" adhesive, then I'm guessing that hide glue is your best bet.

P.S. Don't get hide glue wet.

[Acer Saccharum]

Pre-stain the joint before gluing with a non-oil based stain. The glue will prevent this joint to stain when you go to finish your gun. Pre-staining takes care of that. You just gotta decide on the final color way in advance. 

[L. Akers]

I'd use Titebond III.  It holds like the dickins and is water proof.

[longcruise]

Super glue.  Use a tiny amount and put it on one surface only.  All the caveats regarding stain apply.

[bob in the woods]

Titebond, either 2 or 3

I use titebond 2 for my instruments.  I glued the boards together for my outdoor sign with titebond 3 some 11 years ago.  The joints are all still solid.

[FDR]

"Which glue will survive in this place best?   I am concerned since  the chip extends into the breech contact area and will have to hold up against recoil and the routine removal and replacement of the barrel periodically"

Non traditional but I would stain first and then use Acraglass from Brownell's on the chip. I would also glass bed the tang area, only, to reinforce that area for recoil mitigation. Should outlast the gun!

[Daryl]

"Which glue will survive in this place best?   I am concerned since  the chip extends into the breech contact area and will have to hold up against recoil and the routine removal and replacement of the barrel periodically"

Non traditional but I would stain first and then use Acraglass from Brownell's on the chip. I would also glass bed the tang area, only, to reinforce that area for recoil mitigation. Should outlast the gun!

X2

[Jerry V Lape]

When you say reinforce the tang area with the acraglas, could you be specific about how to do that without the acraglass showing on the surface?  On modern rifles there is usually a place for the excess squeezed out to go.  I don't see that with a flintlock breech.   

[smylee grouch]

I have fixed up about three of those types of mis hapes  and the stain before and acraglass  after with the glass bedding after did the trick, some of those fixes were over 20 years ago and are as sound as the day they were fixed.

[FDR]

When you say reinforce the tang area with the acraglas, could you be specific about how to do that without the acraglass showing on the surface?  On modern rifles there is usually a place for the excess squeezed out to go.  I don't see that with a flintlock breech.  

The rifle I repaired was a cap lock Hawken Jerry. Think Swiss cheese. You want to create unseen space for the glass while maintaining the original inlet. I carefully cut away wood with a ball cutter or dental burr in a Dremel tool and then filled the voids with glass bed. The biggest mistake folks make with glass bed is trying to do the complete job in one mix.  I break the job up into small steps and them complete each step. I also use the Acraglass gel which does not run everywhere. FYI Johnson's paste wax  is an excellent release agent. I have also repaired and returned to service several SXS hammer double gun stocks  that were badly split out using the technique described above. Work with the barrel/tang and stock only and use modeling clay to contain the glass from traveling into areas where it is unwanted.
Hope this helps!

Fred

[Hungry Horse]

 I personally prefer Titebonds hide glue. It isn't waterproof, but if you get your gun wet enough for this stuff to let go, you have problems way beyond a little chip out, or crack. I used this stuff on the chairs in our dining room, and it held better than any other produce, even gorilla glue.

  Hungry Horse

[Daryl]

Hide glues can be very strong, Horse - when tested by bowyers, they went 44psi strength in sheer.
I've use hide, fish and Gorilla glue for gluing maple lam backs on self bows - & 20 (or more now)years old and still shooting - so they all are good.   Proper clamping pressure is necessary - not too much as to squeeze the joint dry, but only enough.