Removing wood to midline of barrel

[SQRL-SNPR]

How do you remove the wood down, on a precarve, to the midpoint of the barrel in a controlled way in a timely manner? I used my rasp at an angle to my layout line, but the wood will tear out if I run it across flat and a file doesn't do much.

[MontanaFrontier86]

I use a handheld palm plane

[Mike Brooks]

#49 cabinet rasp.

[Dennis Glazener]

How do you remove the wood down, on a precarve, to the midpoint of the barrel in a controlled way in a timely manner?

I use what I call a long-boy. I find a piece of wood wider than the barrel channel (so you get both sides at the same time) and about 18 inches long. Then I either glue on a piece of 80-100 grit sandpaper or tack the ends (make it a little long and fold over the ends and tack it to the top of the board). Take it down where you want it then change to finer paper. I do not do this until I am close to being finished with thinning the side-rails to where I want them. (also have the nose cap on and include that in this process).

The long-boy is also good for making sure you don't have any dips in the side-rails, forearm and other long flat places. Better than to notice them AFTER you put the finish on!
Dennis

[oldtravler61]

Not my post Dennis but thanks for the tip. Will make one.

[SQRL-SNPR]

Thanks for the suggestions, all sound like good methods. Mike, how do you use the rasp where it doesn't tear the wood out and create a gap between the barrel and the stock? A #49 is what I was using. Am I using to much pressure, do I need to run it with the length of the stock and not at 90 degrees?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I rough shape the forestock, then draw the line to which I wish to cut.  I cut close to the line with a sharp chisel, constantly watching the grain direction.  Then I finish to the line with a 12" sanding block and 80 grit abrasive cloth.

[SQRL-SNPR]

Thanks Taylor. I'll try the chisel, looks a little precarious, but I'll take small bites. Where does Dennis get 18" sandpaper, rolls of emory?

[Mark Elliott]

I use a plane; either a block plane or a flat model maker's plane.    I taper that line.  It is a little lower than center line at the muzzle and tapers up to the lock bolster.   

[EC121]

I use a piece of metal in the barrel channel with jack screws as a gauge to cut the sides at the proper depth.  Then file the wood down til it just touches the metal which supports the edge of the wood.  Moving the metal down the channel as I file..  Last one I did was 3/4 across the flats so it was easy to get some 3/4" flat bar at Lowe's.  You can take two pieces of 3/4 and offset them to make any larger width.  I cut the wood just a shade below half a flat to show more barrel then feather it up from about the entry pipe to the lock bolster to let the lock line up with the touch hole.  Never see it from a moving horse.  After I get it cut down I true it with a long sanding block.

[thimble rig]

I just use fine files and then blocks of wood with sand paper.Takes a little while.But I'm not in a hurry and I don't have to worry about any tear out.

[Frank]

I get it close with a 10 inch Stanley Surform plane and finish with a 12 inch sanding block.

[Dennis Glazener]

Where does Dennis get 18" sandpaper, rolls of emory?

Beats me where I got it but I have a couple of rolls of sandpaper that someone gave me. It probably was for a drum sander of something similiar, actually its 16 inches. The emory that I have is not wide enough to bridge both side-rails.
Dennis

[SQRL-SNPR]

Dennis, just found some on O'reilly website. 2.75" x 25 yds. 80, 180, 320 grit self adhesive back.

[Lucky R A]

   Go to your local Auto parts store that handles paint and auto body supplies and ask for a long board.   They also have sand papers in grits from 40 to 120 that clamp to the board.  I think some of the new boards also accept self stick papers.  The long board has handles and is quite easy to use and relatively inexpensive. 
    Yes you can work down to your line with a # 49, and you should be keeping as much of the rasp on the wood as possible.  Rasping at a 90 degree angle on the thin edges of a forearm is asking for problems.  If you must rasp at a near 90 degree angle use light pressure and rasp from the inside of the channel to the outside...personally I would use a # 50 at this point.   Keeping as much of the rasp on the edge as possible also helps prevent wobbles.
     Keep in mind that most guns have in excess of half of the barrel exposed.  Exposing as much a 2/3 of the barrel contributes to a nice thin looking forearm..

Ron

[Nate McKenzie]

I start with my large horse hoof rasp [I call her Big Bertha] on the fine side and finish up with a #49 cabinet rasp.

[SQRL-SNPR]

Thanks for all the response. With all this advice I am sure to get it right. On second thought, I can destroy anything.

[Jerry V Lape]

I use a good block plane to get right down to the line marked on both sides.  Where the block plane can't reach I have found the Iwasaki rasps from Woodcraft to be a lot gentler on the edges of the wood and less likely to tear the grain.  They are large enough to act like a long board (get the bigger ones) and finishing up with an extra fine cut gives a really clean surface, almost like a scraper.  

[WKevinD]

I do similar to Dennis, double stick tape, 18" sandpaper strip and work from 50- 180 grit (I have three sticks) to the line then I finish shaping the forend- files- scrapers etc.
I get 2 1/2" wide rolls of cloth backed abrasive at Harbor Freight- cheep but strong. Double stick tape from insulation contractors.