gloss to satin finish

[burch]

The only tung oil the hardware store had was Formby Gloss. Is there any way to get the sheen down to a satin or even a low gloss finish. I've put three coats on so far. The wife bought me a Jukar 45 cal pistol and I've turned it into a pet project. This thing was the most butt ugly example of a percussion pistol I've ever seen but she had good intensions. Anyhow, I'm having fun with it and I'm near completion. I'll add some before and after pics when I get it done. 
       Burch

[L. Akers]

Get some rottennstone and rub it down with that.  Most woodworking outlets carry it.

[smart dog]

Hi Burch,
Very fine steel wool or a very fine scotch-bright pad will also work as long as they are lubricated with linseed or mineral oil.  Same goes for rottenstone.  Take a small square of high density foam like the foam used in thermal pads for camping, and wrap it with cheese cloth to make a "rubber".  Dip the rubber in oil then the rottenstone and rub the stock until the slurry begins to thicken.  Then wipe off the slurry and repeat.  Do not press hard. However, the key thing is to let the finish dry AND cure before trying rub it back.  Curing may take over a week or more so don't rush to rub back the stock otherwise you will rub through the finish.

dave 

[Turtle]

 I satin finish Permylin by rubbing with fine steel wool and mink oil. makes kind of a buttery look.
                                                             Turtle

[Mark Elliott]

My favorite white Scotch-Brite pad will do that for you.   I usually apply finish until I get a gloss and then rub back to satin. 

[bgf]

Smart dog makes a good point about curing.  With the finish you are using, 3 days minimum before it is cured through, and a week or even two is better if you have the time.  Don't just wait until it's not tacky, it needs to feel DRY and Hard.

[burch]

What color scotchbright

[smart dog]

Hi,
I generally use the grey colored scotch bright pad for this purpose.

dave

[burch]

It's been curing for 4 days so far. I'll just let it sit for another week. I have other things to work on.

[Sweeney]

Would the same principles apply to Tru-oil?

[Mark Elliott]

Hi,
I generally use the grey colored scotch bright pad for this purpose.

dave

I am assuming that is the light gray?   The dark gray would most certainly remove all the finish. 

[smart dog]

Hi Mark,
Yes, light grey.

dave

[Sweeney]

Could you please explain the purpose of the oil (mineral, Linseed) in this process?

[BOB HILL]

Started using dark brown Briwax many years ago for everything from decoys to guns. Love the stuff. Last thing I do before it leaves me is one last coat. Don't use the clear on a painted surface it will take some paint off...Bob

[smart dog]

Could you please explain the purpose of the oil (mineral, Linseed) in this process?

Hi Sweeney,
The lubrication slows down the abrasion, smooths the scratches, and helps prevent you from rubbing through the finish. It is critical if you intend to have a fine finish.

dave

[Sweeney]

Thank you so much, Smartdog. Now it makes sense. I apply the oil to the very fine steel wool as I lightly scour the finish that is too glossy in its current state.
 And though I have never heard of Bri Wax, I will certainly research it.
 It is a bit nerve racking to get this close to finishing a project only to learn I have not prepped correctly to get the desired finish. Thanks to all for the help.

[flinchrocket]

Sweeney, birchwood casey makes a stock sheen and conditioner for true oil. I have never used it so I
can't comment on how good it works. I mix true oil with blo 50/50,steel wool the last couple coats and rub
out the last coat by hand. I think it looks good, your mileage may vary.

[rickw]

You can also use 0000 steel wool and any paste wax to give the finish a satin sheen. I've done this on furniture, and I like the sheen that it gives.
Smart dog's advice about letting the finish cure before rubbing out is right on.If you don't, the finish will smear or even peel off. Don't ask how I know that!
Rick

[Sweeney]

Gentlemen, thank you all for the great advice. I applied mineral oil to 0000 steel wool, brought down the shine, then applied Kelly's finishing oil (from Tip Curtis) and I am satisfied with the look for now. It will take more time and different types of lighting for me to be certain. And I hope to post photos soon. Thanks again.