.40 cal recipe

[kudu]

I just got my .40 cal Flintlock together, (Rice Barrel square cut)  and am starting to test loads in it.

I have a .390 mould and am using .012 compressed patching with a dry lube "system" (Dutch Shoult"s)

I need just a touch tighter bore fit- about .002 or so. any suggestions?

I think a trip to the fabric store or a .395 mould and new thinner patching my be in order.

[smallpatch]

Thicker patch, larger ball.

[smokinbuck]

Agree with smallpatch. I shoot a .395 ball with .o15 patching, sometimes .400. Powder charges vary with range and type of match.
Mark

[Daryl]

Ditto above, but heavier patch yet.

[rhbrink]

.400 ball and heavy tough patch like Big Duck Canvas Army Duck start about 60 grains of powder and go from there. Your milage my vary!

RB

[WadePatton]

Thinner patch is almost always the wrong answer.  

BUT THEN you are working with the Dutch system which involves a wipe.

Those of us who prefer to let the patch we load with do ALL the wiping require a thick and well-lubricated patch.  

Go ahead and do the Dutch thing if you will*, but realize the that most of the replies here have to do with WET patches and thick ones that some of us (me for sure) LOVE to pick up and shoot again.

*I have a gallon of water-soluble oil around here somewhere myself.  I don't use it.

As to powder charge--every gun is unique and patching/lube/ball combination ALONG WITH bbl and fitments uniquities decide what exact powder charge works best.  ONLY your bench/table/chunk time can determine that.



wp

[smallpatch]

I use .395 and .020" patch.  It also shoots well with a .040 and .020 patch, but I like the way the .395 loads.

[L. Akers]

.395 ball, .015 patch, 50-60 gr 3F for target work, 25 gr for squirrels.

[kudu]

Daryl is helping me out,

 looks like Im scrapping the Dutch system, and going to cast some .395 balls and use a wet patch.

[Daryl]

I was bitten by the accuracy bug a LONG time ago, using suggestions from Ned Robert's old book, (The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle) to find a combination that allowed shooting all day without wiping, just as he noted.  When you load the next shot, it cleans the last.  That takes a tight combination, obviously.
 
It took a couple years of experimentation, trial and error, but once finding what was necessary, weran with it.  That was 1973/4 and very little, actually nothing, has changed in the loading methods and range of materials to this day.  We did find way back in the late 70's what was sold as "brushed heavy denim", a very soft, almost fluffy-one-side denim, 100% cotton & very strong, that lasted a couple years (bought 10 yards of it). It mic'd .022", compressed hard in the caliper jaws.  We used that until gone, then searched out other cotton, drill, heavy linens, heavy ticking and denim over the next 35 or 40 years, always looking for that compressed measurement of .022" that worked so well, but -  always experimenting again & again when changing one component or another.

The results on paper will tell you how well you've met the requirements of your rifle.

[WadePatton]

Daryl is helping me out,

 looks like Im scrapping the Dutch system, and going to cast some .395 balls and use a wet patch.

Wise grasshopper.  I think you'll be pleased with your results.  Either way requires dialing in for each gun, and the DS system will still be there if you ever decide to try that route for any reason.

[Don Adams]

My rifle likes a .395 with .18 thickness pillow ticking patch with Mr Flintlock's lube and 50 grains of 3F

[Vomitus]

  .395 RB, 20 thou cotton patch,windshieldwiper lube,50 gr. of 2F.  Both my forties love this load.
note" one rifle, the most recent one has a slight "cone". Makes it a little easier to start the ball. I still use a starter and it doesn't bother me that it's not P/C. A great little accuracy tool.

[smylee grouch]

I have several 40s and none start to shoot close to best untill I get 55-60 gr. of swiss powder, 395 or better yet 400 ball and 20-22 thousands patch. Best groups so far has been .6 in at 50 yd. center to center.

[kudu]

well I been tryin to get good groups at 50 just cant get it to happen. I have a good place to shoot with a bench and rest I even made two sets of sights front and rear to try to get the best "sight picture" possible.

Ive weighed my charges to get uniformity tried different ball dia. patch thickness etc.

Im starting to think Im just not that good of a shot even off the bench with this Flintlock thing.

 I used to shoot Prairie Dogs alot! and have a 22-250 that will shoot a 3/8-1/2 group at 100 yards so I cant be that bad?

[WadePatton]

How many different loads have you tried?  Or what range of powder charges have you fed it?  

I'd develop a good ball/patch combo first-thick and wet (not DS).  A combo that give reusable patches.  THEN work the powder charge through the increments.

If you're getting un-blown/burnt/cut patches off the ground, and you've worked through all the charges you can imagine with your powder.  Try a different powder (brand, granulation, lot#-each constitutes a different powder).  [Same as developing a load for the turn-bolt at that point.]

If that doesn't show you some different spreads, then I'd guess there's a technique or loading issue.

Are you now or have you ever been a flincher?  

[thimble rig]

You will get it.Just have some patience.This black powder shooting isn't like modern shooting guns.Just remember to have fun and practice.Listen to the fellows on here they have already been in youre shoes.

[smylee grouch]

Shooting off the bench has a few quirks to learn so try different barrel positions and take and compare notes. Write this stuff down because you probably wont remember all the combinations.

[rhbrink]

well I been tryin to get good groups at 50 just cant get it to happen. I have a good place to shoot with a bench and rest I even made two sets of sights front and rear to try to get the best "sight picture" possible.

Ive weighed my charges to get uniformity tried different ball dia. patch thickness etc.

Im starting to think Im just not that good of a shot even off the bench with this Flintlock thing.

 I used to shoot Prairie Dogs alot! and have a 22-250 that will shoot a 3/8-1/2 group at 100 yards so I cant be that bad?

Is it windy where you shoot even a mild breeze will ruin a great group at 50 yards especially if it is switching from 9:00 to 3:00 back and forth? You might hang a couple of wind flags between you and the target to get an idea of just how much wind you are dealing with? Good luck!

RB

[Daryl]

Concentration and follow through give you the best potential (I like that word) for best accuracy. Sights that you can see also add to the potential. Shooting at too large a 'mark' will open groups. Fliers are usually caused - wind, cut or burnt patch (too thin or weak) lack of concentration or lack of sight definition. Poor bench technique - watch some stool shooter videos. Yes - boring but useful technique lessons can be learned - look at their feet, height above the bench, etc.  Where you rest the rifle matters a great deal with many rifles. These are all questions & techniques one must work out - loading and shooting idiosyncrasies. Follow through is a biggie- the lower velocity of these rifles, like shooting rim fires, demands longer follow through than modern rifles as the ball is still in the barrel as the gun recoils. It must do this - recoil, the same each shot. The lighter the charge, the longer the follow through required.

[kudu]

well I been burning some powder
I think i got the best combo I can
I ended with 48grs FFF .395 cast ball and .018" compressed patch.

I now use a wet patch witha moose milk made up of 1part Ballistol 22 parts water 1part pine sol.
The pine sol is just to get rid of the smell of the Ballistol.

If? the pics show up I shot them off a bench at 50 yards.

It would be Sac-religious to mount a scope on a "Longrifle" but the thought has crossed my mind
to somehow get one on temporary and then test some loads and remove it before someone see's it.
well its been a task and a real learning curve and i hope to keep making smoke for
years to come.
I made a bunch of other tools, patch cutters. ball moulds, and a pile of sights i may post some pics later this photobucket thing is real slow on my computer it locked up twice posting these photos but I dont know how to use it too well.

[Ridge]

I use a .395 ball and .018 patch, lubed with olive oil/bees wax. 50 grains of 3f behind it and it's more accurate than me.

[Daryl]

I use a .395 ball and .018 patch, lubed with olive oil/bees wax. 50 grains of 3f behind it and it's more accurate than me.

How do you know it's more accurate than you are? Did someone who shoots more accurately than you, shoot it and get better groups than you can, or are you just guessing that it might be more accurate than you are?
Just wondering - I've seen that statement in print many times.

[kudu]

I use a .395 ball and .018 patch, lubed with olive oil/bees wax. 50 grains of 3f behind it and it's more accurate than me.

How do you know it's more accurate than you are? Did someone who shoots more accurately than you, shoot it and get better groups than you can, or are you just guessing that it might be more accurate than you are?
Just wondering - I've seen that statement in print many times.

my point is that also- ther is a member on hear that goes by "Blacksmoke" I think his name is Hugh.
 I like to talk to him  about what he uses for a sight. i know he "places" the barrel in a fixture and/or shoots  just the barrel with a breech plug that uses some type of fuze. and shows amazing groups at 100 yards

how does he sight it with no dovetails cut in barrel- lugs, sights or otherwise?
he probably has a clamping set of rings over octagon rings Im thinking one piece like the figure "8" round top octagon bottom.
 

[Ridge]

How do you know it's more accurate than you are? Did someone who shoots more accurately than you, shoot it and get better groups than you can, or are you just guessing that it might be more accurate than you are?
Just wondering - I've seen that statement in print many times.

Just a figure of speach.