Author Topic: How do I get Lighter finish  (Read 3288 times)

Offline Wyoduster

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 167
How do I get Lighter finish
« on: April 10, 2016, 11:38:05 PM »
I'm new to gun building...  ::)  I have a beautiful piece of culy Maple I'm ready to put on the finishing touches and ....Now what?? I read alot about aqua fortis.. looks to make a dark reddish stock.. I'd like a lighter stock so how do I go about it??? :-\??????

Offline smylee grouch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7856
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2016, 12:25:42 AM »
Some have diluted the aqua fortis and not put as many coats on. There are a lot of other staining options too.

Offline Wyoduster

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 167
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2016, 12:49:59 AM »
Some have diluted the aqua fortis and not put as many coats on. There are a lot of other staining options too.
OK Options??
 Why aqua fortis instead of aniline dye??

Hemo

  • Guest
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2016, 12:57:38 AM »
Dilute aquafortis would probably work, but aniline dyes are okay too. Laurel Mountain Forge makes a "Honey Maple" stain which is quite light, and could be diluted further, applied in several applications until you get the color you want. Test well on a scrap piece before you go to the finished stock!
There are those who say aniline dyes are not as color fast in sunlight as aquafortis, though I've not had problems with the Laurel Mountain Forge stains.
(Of course, aquafortis is more historically correct than aniline dyes.)

Gregg

Offline flinchrocket

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1750
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2016, 03:57:29 AM »
LMF stains can be mixed with their sealer. Pick the color and add it to the sealer until it is the shade you
want on a scrape piece from your stock. Stain and seal at the same time. Just mix enough to cover the stock, if you get it a little darker than you like just add more sealer to the mix.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2016, 03:58:53 AM by flinchrocket »

JoeG

  • Guest
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2016, 04:43:32 AM »
use a 10% solution of Nitric acid
coat stock and then apply heat
it will give you a yellow colored stock
you can use potassium permanganate to make stripe darker

Offline davec2

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2901
    • The Lucky Bag
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2016, 05:08:20 AM »
Try the 10% nitric acid that JoeG recommends first on a piece of scrap (preferable from the stock you are working on).  I use plain nitric a lot.  Blush with a heat gun and use enough heat to watch the color change.  It doesn't always come out yellow.  Often a very pleasing but much lighter reddish to brown stain on maple.  Then put on some finish to see what it will really look like when done.
"No man will be a sailor who has contrivance enough to get himself into a jail; for being in a ship is being in a jail, with the chance of being drowned... a man in a jail has more room, better food, and commonly better company."
Dr. Samuel Johnson, 1780

Offline Jerry V Lape

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3027
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2016, 06:38:19 AM »
You can also rub aquafortis back to a lighter shade I have had some come out almost black and just used a fine scotchbrite  material to rub the whole thing to where I liked it.  Requires a bit of labor hard labor though.  The aniline dyes can be used over aguafortis to add in tones you like. 

Offline WadePatton

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5293
  • Tennessee
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2016, 07:31:00 AM »
I'm new to gun building...  ::)  I have a beautiful piece ... looks to make a dark reddish stock...

You cannot go by any other stock if it's from a different tree.  If you don't have a sample chunk of that stock to play with, you can test in areas that will become hidden.  But you won't exactly know what color/darkness your stock will make, with the AF solution you'll make or use, until you've tested that very piece of wood.

The dyes may be more predictable. I don't know, I've yet to need to use them.
Hold to the Wind

Offline Gene Carrell

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 522
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2016, 02:12:08 PM »
I have had very good luck with ferric nitrate. Put a coat on, let it dry then heat. If it is not dark enough (likely) do again and again. It also takes to rubbing back well.
Gene

Offline Wyoduster

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 167
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2016, 02:44:46 PM »
Ok ordered some AF and honey maple for TOW .. guess I'll try something new...... :o

Offline smart dog

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 6957
Re: How do I get Lighter finish
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2016, 03:18:02 PM »
Hi,
Over the years I have used many methods and products for staining guns.  Water-based, xylol-based, alcohol-based, water-acid, alcohol-acid, etc.  For maple, I narrowed down my choices to ferric nitrate and water or aniline dyes and water.  Ferric nitrate and water is basically aqua fortis and iron. It is an acid in water, oxidizes the wood and in that process inserts iron oxide into the wood fiber.  It does a very good job bringing out figure in maple, never fades and produces authentic colors.  By using the ferric nitrate powder dissolved in water rather than commercially prepared aqua fortis solutions, you have better control of color because you can control the concentration very closely.  You have even greater control of color with aniline dyes, however, the trade-off is that the dyes will fade in UV light over time.  I've stained many guns with aniline dyes over 30 years and experienced slight color fading on one gun but then none of my guns sit out unshaded in bright sunlight for very many hours at a time.  Years ago, I bought dry aniline dyes from Brownell's in basic colors: scarlet, orange, yellow, brown, and black. By mixing those basic colors in water I can produce any desired shade and color I could possibly want for wood.  I do not like alcohol or other fast drying stains and dyes because they dry too fast and I cannot even out the color as easily as I can with water-based dyes or stains.  Moreover, I had a terrible experience with LMF stains on a very hard piece of maple.  The stains would not penetrate the hard areas because they dried too fast.  I tried thinning the stuff with LMF reducer hoping it would dry more slowly and soak in but that only allowed the color to migrate into the corners of carving and low spots producing very uneven coloring. Then they inhibited any further staining to even out the color.  I just had to scrape off the whole mess and start over. 

Finally, Wyoduster, I choose ferric nitrate and water (essentially aqua fortis and iron) when I want to produce an authentic color because my objective is a gun that appears historically correct. However, it produces what I call "monotonic" colors. That means the contrasting colors are all different shades of the same reddish brown. On guns for which I am not restricted by historical coloring, I try to bring out the maximum beauty in figured maple by layering different colors. Often, I start with a base of ferric nitrate and then layer on yellow, orange, or brown aniline dye on top. When you look at that wood, you see a rainbow of color layers that looks deep like cat's eyes (chatoyancy).   It all depends on my objectives.

dave 
"The main accomplishment of modern economics is to make astrology look good."