Set trigger problems

[54ball]

 Well,the Gillespie is so close I can almost taste it.

 I post this for other new builders so hopefully they will avoid it and for you experienced mentors please chime in if you have any comments about the problem and possible solutions.

 I thought the set triggers were lined up with the sear bar. I should have been more diligent in laying this out but honestly if I had I may have still made this same mistake.

 Looking back the curve of the stock had me messed up with my alignment. In my minds eye it should have lined up but instead I was forward of the sear bar. I missed it by 1/4 inch. I know that sounds like a lot but it looked like it should have worked.


Here is where it is...

Here is where it should be...

 Here is the front trigger pulled...it just misses the sear bar You can see the very tip of the front trigger

 I thought I may not be deep enough (more on that later) but as I got the plate down, it's just in the wrong place. It's too far forward.
  Here is the locks and triggers laid out together....
 
 I may have another complication here. This lock is at full cock. If you notice the sear bar is way high on that lock. It's mid plate at the tail. I'm beginning to wonder if those triggers will work with that lock. It looks like those triggers will really have to buried deep in the stock even if they were in the right spot.

 I thought I might have this figured out when I started posting, but as I reviewed the pictures I'm not that sure. I'm really going to have to study this for a while.

 This is what I was thinking to correct this...

 Move the triggers back re-inlet & patch hole...

 Modify triggers...

 Bend sear bar... It will have to be a compound bend down and forward and back straight.

 Get another set of triggers with a taller trigger plate and bars.

 Thanks



 
 

[bama]

It is not to late in your build to move your triggers back to where they should be. Move the triggers back, the front finial of the guard should cover your mistake. if it doesn't inlay some wood into the spot then inlet the guard. Do not inlet the triggers to their set position, rather inlet them unset but deep enough that both trigger bars can reach the sear bar and trip it with as little movement as possible of the triggers. I hope that makes sense to you.

[Dave B]

I agree with Bama. Just move them back a little. After plugging the hole with a wood insert glued into the space.  I have used the bend the sear to solve troubles for the reverse reason. The  triggers being too tall. That lock you have has a high sear placement on the lock plate and tall triggers work better than the ones you have. The Hawken triggers from L&R Have a taller profile and would work well in the situation you have. Here the triggers pictured are the L&R straight front Hawken triggers. I had to bend the sear bar up to get the triggers under the bar and not tripping the sear when cocking the lock. Lots of grinding the rear trigger blade to the angle you see here.



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[Bob Roller]

Another bit of advice. MEASURE everything before cutting wood.Lay out the stock of a roll of white shelf paper and beginning with the barrel length and width.I used a 12" Starret steel ruler but a yardstick will work if needed. Draw the barrel into the outline of the stock and then use the dimensions from the lock with the hammer at full cock and locate it on the drawing. Lay the set triggers on the drawing and see if they are even compatible with the established dimensions.This will add to the build time but it will save a lot of aggravation as the project moves forward.

Bob Roller

[Dennis Glazener]

I may have another complication here.------ It looks like those triggers will really have to buried deep in the stock even if they were in the right spot.

They look like small Davis if so they will work fine, you may have to take some off the tops of the trigger levers to allow the triggers to be set without hitting the sear bar.

Also, most of the time I have to bend the trigger plate to lessen the depth of the curve. Looks like you might need tweaking. Looks a little low in the mid section.
Dennis

[Mark Elliott]

It looks to me that you have plenty of wood that can come off the bottom of the stock to allow the triggers to go deeper.   That is,  assuming the ramrod hole is deep enough relative to the bottom of the stock. 

Once the triggers are in place,  you might have a problem with the rear trigger holding up the sear.   You can resolve that problem two ways; use a compound curve in the sear bar as shown in the above photo, and install a rear trigger travel limiting screw.   The screw will form a stop on the rear trigger spring.     

[Pete G.]

You could make another trigger plate to fit the current inlet. Also look to see it one of the newer L&R triggers (either the front trigger or perhaps the entire assembly) would fit into your application. They have a higher tab that can be fit more closely to a high sear like yours.

[54ball]

 Thanks all for the advice and comments it's really appreciated.

 I may be OK...

 It may be closer than I thought. I did bend the sear just slightly after I posted and it is making contact with both blades.  How well???

 The master I study under wants me to bring it to him next week so we can straighten it out. I'll give a full report on what was done to correct this.
 Thanks again.

[kaintuck]

You can always slip a brass tube around the sear bar to make it "fatter" instead of bending it.
Marc n tomtom

[Bob Roller]

You can always slip a brass tube around the sear bar to make it "fatter" instead of bending it.
Marc n tomtom

It's easier to mess up a lock with a tool steel sear than to use a brass tube.
It would also be better to lay out the job like a shop drawing with measurements and see
if all parts are compatible. I had a "go around" years ago with a man that couldn't understand
why my Hawken squirrel rifle lock couldn't be used with a 1-1/8"bolster breech.The whole idea is
IMHO,measure TWICE and cut once.

Bob Roller