OK, no surprise: you guys are right, as always. After building eight caplock rifles (carbines, actually), I decided to try a flinter. I had trepidations, having had a bad experience with a flinter dueling pistol. (Took 18 tries to get it to ignite the charge). Second flinter (rifle this time) looked OK, and I took it out to try it out -- sadly, with "synthetic" bp. (I know, I know, you guys scoff at "synthetics," but they work fine in percussion rifes . . .). Took it out (with synthetics), and it took more than two dozen (!) tries to get three rounds fired. Snarled about that, and retired the flinter in favor of the cap lock I had taken along for insurance. After returning home, I placed an order (thanks to your advice) to Graf & Sons for some "real" bp -- FF and FFFF. I was thrilled that the cost was only about $18 per pound (including the hazardous shipping fee) vs. something like $28 a pound for the "synthetic" stuff from the one (crappy) local supplier in Tucson. With the real bp in hand, I went to the desert and fired about two dozen rounds, and had only four "misfires" -- one, because I didn't put enough FFFF in the pan (I think; flashed, but didn't ignite the main charge) -- and three because I didn't get enough spark to ignite the main charge. (New flint getting adjusted to the frizzen?) Thrilled me no end, and restored my faith in flinters. I guess real bp is necessary for flinters to function properly. Good news, too: I was at sighting-in range (25 yards), and of the two dozen shots fired, all but about four "wingers" were inside a 2-inch circle. Guess I was only minimally affected by "flintlock flinch." I forgot to take along my file, so wasn't able to file down the front sight to "zero" it in; next time. Thanks for the "real" bp advice. (Also: noted no more fouling with real bp than with the synthetic). Sorry if this is boring to most of you. Wanted to acknowledge your good advice and faith restored in flinters. -- paul