1st post by a new member needing help!

[Jabbo]

Okay...I know that new member posts on message boards requesting help are viewed by some folk along the lines of "This bozo just wants help and will disappear as soon as he gets it"...I just made a $20 donation to the forum because I not only need help, I also intend to participate.  Now to my problem:

I bought a 1803 Harper's Ferry kit from TOTF.  As I was inletting the barrel to get the side flat in proper position for centering the touch hole, I very slightly broke through into the pre-inletted lock portion of the stock.  I haven't completely inletted the lock, and from what I've read on the board so far it sounds like I need to go ahead and fully inlet the lock, then continue to inlet the barrel to the point where it's either in the proper position or to the maximum extent such that the barrel doesn't impact the lock operation.  Assuming that's the proper plan, how much of a problem will I have if the touch hole insert isn't centered vertically on the barrel flat?

Thanks to all for any help!

[davebozell]

Welcome to the forum!  I'd get the barrel set back far enough so that the touch hole will be in the proper location for your lock inlet, then go ahead and finish your lock inlet.  You shouldn't have to move the barrel down further into the stock.  Usually they only need to be moved back toward the butt.  Take it slow, read as many posts as you can, and ask questions as necessary.  There are many knowledgeable folks here who are more than willing to help.

Check the tutorials for posts that describe the assembly order to use.  (There are several.)  Also, if you don't have a book to reference like "Recreating the American Longrifle", it would be worth the investment.

[Karl Kunkel]

No big deal breaking into the lock inlet cavity.  It happens - sometimes the barrel and or main spring need to be filed a little for clearance.

[54ball]

 Welcome!

 Firstly you need some reference material.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/1/BOOK-ABPL
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/1/BOOK-GGC
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/4/BOOK-RAL

 It really helps to to study a printed book that you can refer back too again and again.
 There's also several DVDs and videos as well. IMHO those are gravy but the real meat is the printed word.
 
 The books mentioned all feature building a rifle from a blank. Building a "pre carve" is a little different. That's why you need to study so you can figure that out. You also need enough working knowledge so you can ask questions and really understand the answer. One thing to keep in mind sometimes the advice you get may not be the best or something was lost on the translation...just another reason you need a resource for the basics. It just puts you on the same page so to speak.

 The forum here is a great resource. The search function works well. Too are the archives from the old board that you can study all manner of topics as well. Take a look at the tutorials.

 Nothing, I mean nothing is like hands on instruction. In minutes you can figure out and learn something that have taken years otherwise. The NMLRA has building classes. Look at this forums stickys for upcoming classes.

   PS....
 Put some more "general info" about you in your profile. We don't need a blood sample but some of these masters are old fashioned and like knowing who they are talking too.

[Eric Krewson]

On my first build I was really concerned about breaking through the lock inlet into the barrel channel so when I got close, I started filling off the main spring to keep it's inlet out of the barrel channel.

I took a good bit off the main spring, dropping the cocking force from around 30# to 16# but I stayed out of the barrel channel.

I did the same on my second gun but took less off the spring.

I noticed the lock time was a little slow on gun #1, deer had time to avoid being hit if they were facing me when I shot. I thought gun #1 was a rembrandt when I built it but realized later it was a first gun sow's ear with all the mistakes I made when I built it.

I Thought about the lock time and ordered a new mainspring, installed it and reinletted the lock to accommodate it. I broke into the barrel channel and had to make a very small cut (1/16") in the barrel  to give the new spring some room. The barrel is a C weight Rice, the lock is a Deluxe Siler.

I found this type of inlet is pretty common so I don't feel like I goofed up anything breaking into the barrel channel.

As for lock performance; I never should have narrowed the spring as I killed the lock performance. With a new mainspring and a touch hole opened up to 5/64 there won't be too many deer getting out of the way of that .54 cal ball headed their way.

[Pete G.]

Lock inlet breaking into the barrel channel is not really what you want to see, but it is no big deal if it happens. As far as the touch hole goes, if you are using an insert it does not really need to be vertically centered (within reason of course) because a touch hole insert provides sort of a powder chamber inside the barrel. If you are using a drilled hole, keeping it centered makes for the shortest length.

[Jabbo]

Thanks for the replies!  I'll try to address everyone's comments....

davebozell:  At this point in the process I'm not going to be able to set the barrel back far enough to get the touch hole where it ought to be...I've read in Recreating the American Longrifle that this isn't a problem as long as I waller out the breech plug (properly and in the right place) to deal with a touch hole close to the plug - apparently it's not uncommon to find old flintlocks where this has been done.

Karl Kunkel and Eric Krewson:  Thanks for the encouragement and the personal experience info - I'm feeling better about proceeding with the inletting and relying on your advice!

54ball:  I have Recreating the American Longrifle (very, very well written and full of good advice) and The Gunsmith of Grenville County (well written and beautifully illustrated - there are some gorgeous rifles in that book!)...I don't have The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle - I suspect I need to order that one.  And, as soon as I post this message I'll add some info to my profile!

Pete G.:  Thanks for the info regarding the touch hole insert - that also makes me feel better about this build!

Thanks again to all for the advice and encouragement!  I'll keep y'all posted!

[Swab]

I wouldn't worry about it.  I did a pistol mortar where everything fit so tight that I had to machine a bit off the barrel as well as the spring (there was more than enough thickness on the barrel) and then mount the lock directly into the barrel.

This picture was taken before I finished the build.