Slotted barrel wedge

[Red Owl]

I'd appreciate some comments on slotted barrel wedges that are retained by a pin under the wedge plate. A bother or worthwhile? Thanks.

[northmn]

Slotted wedges were used on rifles like the Hawken to eliminate loss out in the boondocks for instance.  I would not be surprised if the English rifles did not have them (would be more so if they did not) as I were broken down to carry in cases for travel.  Whether they are "practical" in todays uses remains to be seen.  If you clean by breaking down your rifle or shotgun and dowsing the breech in a water container I think they would be convenient. They guarantee a consistancy in replacement which may or may not affect accuracy. Slotted keys also are one of the little things that seperate a finer gun from one not as fine.  I tend to slot them.

DP

[Bucksnort]

Red Owl, I've only built 1 gun with wedges. I slotted them but didn't pin them just lazy I guess, realy I was going to pin them them on the inside of the barrel channel. It was a Southern gun and I didn't want to put escutcheons on the forestock. The only time I take them out is to clean the barrel, they are snug so they won't fall out in the field. I numbered they so they go back in the same slot. I like the way they work and probly won't use pins on a gun that I'm going to shoot a lot. I would think when it is all said and done it is up to you to pin or not. Duane

[David Rase]

Duane, If you decide to use draw wedges I would recommend that you make your own.  All the commercially available wedges are too thick.  When I make mine I start out with a strip of 1/16" thick steel.  I hold the steel strip in a vise leaving about 1/8" exposed.  I start upsetting the exposed end with a small ball peen hammer.  I have to adjust and reposition the steel strip several times while forming the head.  You will need to form the head slightly oversize to allow enough material to file it smooth.  Wedges are no more harder to cold forge then a single trigger.
DMR

[Mike Brooks]

If you are going to use keys you might as well slot and pin them.

[B Shipman]

I have an original Shroyer to copy for a customer and it has slotted and pined wedges. Almost all Federal Period (Golden Age) PA  rifles of quality had wedges. I've owned a few that did not have pinned wedges. Whether to slot and pin them is a matter of preference. I mostly do not and I make a lot more rifles with wedges than pins. I 've never had a customer lose one yet. Luck. And things hanging out of your rifle while you're removing the barrel can cause damage as well. Yet I've had no reports of damage here either.  Just a matter of choice.

[Red Owl]

Well I'm glad I asked because I didn't think slotted and pinned wedges were that common. Okay, next question. It may be that a wedge could loosen up over the years and have to be replaced so when a wedge is pinned, how is it pinned?  I would assume a shallow slot is cut under the wedge plate for the pin and a snug fit is used but no glue, etc- that way you could take the screws out on the wedge plate, remove the wedge plate, then remove the pin and replace or re-work the wedge if needed. Is that correct?

[Mike Brooks]

If your key loosens up you peen the bottom of the barrel lug to tighten it up. These are not "wedges" as in 1860 colt army. Kentucky rifle keys are parallel sided as opposed to tapered sides on colt wedges.

[Red Owl]

Thanks.  On the rifles, is the proper term "Key"?

[B Shipman]

Either way. Key I would say is the more traditional term and a more accurate description. Sliders is another term.

[northmn]

The best way to pin a slotted wedge is to get a small screw and plae it in the beveled edge of the barrel channel.  Nails can be driven in, but can be sort of permanent without doing a lot of damage if you want to get the thing out. 

DP

[keweenaw]

I've never seen an original gun with a screw to retain the keys.  Small brads work fine. They need not be all that long and can be pulled with minimal damage and that's all inside the barrel channel anyway.  Screws would require fairly wide slots in the key and the amount of wood that would need to removed to clear the head is at least as large as the amount that would need to be removed to pull a pin.

Tom

[Benedict]

I've never seen an original gun with a screw to retain the keys.  Small brads work fine. They need not be all that long and can be pulled with minimal damage and that's all inside the barrel channel anyway.  Screws would require fairly wide slots in the key and the amount of wood that would need to removed to clear the head is at least as large as the amount that would need to be removed to pull a pin.

Tom

The small brad or nail does not have to be a tight fit in the hole because the barrel will retain it.  So it can be easy to remove.

Bruce