Author Topic: Stain colors on my Kibler kit..... (Read 11379 times)

GANGGREEN · « **on:** June 03, 2016, 08:31:25 PM »

I think one of the more common thread topics on this board has to be about staining and finishing rifles. I thought I'd post a couple of photos of the process so people can see how a couple of combinations work on curly maple. This is the Kibler kit that I ordered in .40 caliber and it happens to be a piece of curly hard maple that I supplied (and I happen to have another piece or two laying around).

The first coat of stain was Dangler's reddish brown. When wet it was actually quite attractive, but a very obvious cherry red color.

This photo is of the same stock with a coat of LMF nut brown over top of the Dangler reddish brown. Note how the curl just pops with the second coat. I think it's going to knock your socks off after a couple of coats of Tru-oil.

Doc · « **Reply #1 on:** June 03, 2016, 10:02:27 PM »

Wow, she's a beaut alright. Going to be a real looker when you are done. Is that just straight stain or did you have to do the heat gun to get those results?

Doc

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #2 on:** June 03, 2016, 10:21:37 PM »

Quote from: Doc on June 03, 2016, 10:02:27 PM

Wow, she's a beaut alright. Going to be a real looker when you are done. Is that just straight stain or did you have to do the heat gun to get those results?

Doc

Nope, straight stain. I thought about using aqua fortis, but I've never used it before and didn't want my first experiment to ruin this gun. I think the two coats of stain make the curl pop as well as the AF anyway.

Frank · « **Reply #3 on:** June 03, 2016, 11:18:37 PM »

Looks a lot like mine. I used Laurel Mountain Forge Nut Brown and Walnut, and Chambers oil finish. I would post pictures, but am technically challenged.

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #4 on:** June 04, 2016, 12:28:35 AM »

A few more photos. I applied the first coat of Tru-oil and you can almost get a sense for what it will look like when done.

I applied 44/40 to the barrel and it took an immediate dark slate color and was fairly even. I'll card this off tomorrow to give it an antiqued pewter look. I haven't gotten around to taking the lock apart and bluing it or the buttplate, triggerguard or pipes, but that's easy.

James · « **Reply #5 on:** June 04, 2016, 12:49:01 AM »

I like it.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #6 on:** June 04, 2016, 02:13:13 AM »

Nice color. Wood isn't too shabby either.

Marcruger · « **Reply #7 on:** June 04, 2016, 04:22:39 AM »

Ganggreen, Someone is going to be really happy with the rifle. Gorgeous color and finish. God Bless, Marc

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 04, 2016, 04:30:56 AM »

Ganggreen very nice work. The curl sure does jump out at yeah.

BOB HILL · « **Reply #9 on:** June 04, 2016, 05:57:51 AM »

NICE!,,,,,,,,,Bob

frogwalking · « **Reply #10 on:** June 04, 2016, 09:16:52 PM »

Good looking shop!

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #11 on:** June 04, 2016, 11:11:37 PM »

Quote from: frogwalking on June 04, 2016, 09:16:52 PM

Good looking shop!

It's a very nice and very roomy shop. I'd like to update a few of my tools and I REALLY need to keep it neater, but otherwise, it's a nice place to work, thanks.

Arcturus · « **Reply #12 on:** June 05, 2016, 01:24:46 AM »

Lookin' good! Great piece of wood and as others have said, I like the color. I usually prefer an aqua fortis staining, but yours looks great.

delivered · « **Reply #13 on:** June 05, 2016, 02:16:46 AM »

What's 44-40?

John Archer · « **Reply #14 on:** June 05, 2016, 02:54:36 AM »

44/40 is an instant bluing formula...get it at Brownells.

John

Longone · « **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2016, 02:22:09 PM »

Any pics of the final barrel color?

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2016, 03:17:58 PM »

Here are some pics of the finished product. Jim provided such a beautiful kit that I'm almost reluctant to post the photos because I don't want anyone to blame my mistakes on him. That said, the kit was well done and was quite easy to accomplish even for someone with my minimal experience and ability.

wattlebuster · « **Reply #17 on:** June 05, 2016, 04:27:16 PM »

Sharp. I like it

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2016, 05:04:12 PM »

Quote from: wattlebuster on June 05, 2016, 04:27:16 PM

Sharp. I like it

Thanks.

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #19 on:** June 05, 2016, 05:12:17 PM »

And a photo of the tang.....

Mikecooper · « **Reply #20 on:** June 05, 2016, 05:48:43 PM »

Looks good. Makes me want to build one. I would use a different finish though. Doesn't that heavy stain lock in the flame of the maple?

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #21 on:** June 05, 2016, 09:34:36 PM »

Quote from: Mikecooper on June 05, 2016, 05:48:43 PM

Looks good. Makes me want to build one. I would use a different finish though. Doesn't that heavy stain lock in the flame of the maple?

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking.

Mikecooper · « **Reply #22 on:** June 05, 2016, 10:34:34 PM »

curly maple has chatoyance meaning if you tilt it back and forth the light bands turn dark and the dark bands turn light. It looks 3 dimensional.

I have found that heavy staining reduces that appearance. Some call it 'locking in the flame' so it doesn't move.

you mentioned not wanting to use aqua fortis but from what I hear it stains pretty good without locking in the flame. It's a little scary to take a heat source to the wood though.

I come from the violin world. The old Cremona boys, Stradivari, Amati etc. really knew how to make curly maple pop. I would like to see that kind of finish on a gun but it might be a bit non-traditional even though it dates back to the same time period.

Here's an example, maybe not the best example but kind of shows the effect. This is homemade ground and varnish.

I like the red color though. A varnish with madder and cochineal colorants would look good. Some of the old original guns had that deep red varnish.

GANGGREEN · « **Reply #23 on:** June 05, 2016, 10:57:53 PM »

Ah, thanks for the reply, I understand now Mike. Being relatively inexperienced in all of this, I can't really say what the best finish is. I will say this though, I have several really nice guns that are finished with LMF stains and I've seen guns with similar quality stocks done in AF and with ferric nitrate and I'm not sure I see much difference. Maybe there is and I'm showing my inexperience.

Again, thanks for the explanation and the video, which demonstrated your point perfectly.

oldfireguy · « **Reply #24 on:** June 05, 2016, 11:10:53 PM »

That came out really nice.

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Author Topic: Stain colors on my Kibler kit..... (Read 11379 times)

Doc

Mikecooper

Mikecooper

oldfireguy