Lock lube ??

[Sam Everly]

I wonder what kind of lube does every one use on the moving parts of there locks .I have heard of all kind of stuff from mink oil to nothing at all. I know we put these little machines through some tuff treatment some times. I have seen some locks that are only 5 to 10 years old that are worn out , most never got a drop of oil in there life . There are some very good lubes out now, I have some synthetic , that is SLICK . I use to like the old STP , that was about as slick as you could get. But some of the new stuff has it beat hands down .           

[Scott Bumpus]

rem-oil

[George Sutton]

Graphite

Centershot

[Larry Pletcher]

I've been a Rem-oil person for quite a while and sometimes sewing machine oil.  I have wanted to try the light oil you use with brass band instruments like trumpets and trombones.  Trombone slide oil is a great lube but may be too thin.

However, Sam made a extreeemly nice ball bearing lock for me and sent a sample of his lube for me to experiment with.  We will be able to time the lock with two main springs and the lube adds another testing dimension.  I'm looking forward to timing the lock and trying the lube. 

Thanks Sam,
Regards,
Pletcher

[hanshi]

Since I clean & oil my locks each time I clean the gun, I've always used pretty much whatever came along.  I have several oils (including WD40) I use for various purposes on my bench.  I have come to really like Butch's Gun Oil.  For lubing lock innerds it's as good as anything I've tried.

[wmrike]

After a session at the range I always flush my lock in hot tap water, shake off the excess, dab the residual water off with a paper towel, and hit it with WD40.  But every winter the lock is disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and reassembled with a very thick, waterproof silicone (pump) grease.  And that's why I don't think twice about the water exposure during the shooting season.

[chapmans]

 I use Clenzoil.
  Steve C.

[roundball]

I clean the lock assembly after every use so its usually just  the residual WD40 I use to power flush the lock internals after the cleaning...days or weeks later if I have a lock out for some reason, I'll sometimes let a few drops of Rem-Oil run down in there then shake off the excess

[Jim Chambers]

I have been using and selling Accralube for a number of years.  For areas like the tip of the mainspring where it rides on the tumbler foot, you need a lubricant designed for high pressure application.  Thin oils can be displaced by the pressure in areas like this.  But, any lubrication is better than none.  You'd be surprised how many locks we see that are so dry they squeak like an old door hinge.....and the guy is clueless as to why his lock is not functioning like he thinks it should.  Those same guys probably don't know were to look for the dip stick in their cars.

[Sam Everly]

Jim , i think you are right , the thin oil just does not stay or does not work under the pressure. I forgot about your lube you sold. I did have a bottle some where? I think it was the blue stuff. Bill Cogburn may have Uhm... borrowed it . I have been using some synthetic grease mixed with some synthetic gear oil to thin it a little . It is used in the hubs on the wheel bearings in the Nationwide and Sprint cup cars . It cost $$$$ big bucks but i got it for free. It cost about $1200 per car per race for oils and grease.      That is about 5 gals of motor oil, about 1/2 a cup of grease for the hubs, and 5 quarts of rear lube and  2 quarts of trans lube .      

[Jim Chambers]

And we have guys complaining about how expensive the sport of muzzleloading has become.  I tried racing Corvettes once, but my pockets were way too short.

[Blacksmoke]

Having worked in the telephone industry for 35 yrs. I access to the lube they used for the old electromechanical switches in the telephone exchanges. Don't know it's composite make up but it is the consistency of thick syrup and it is purple colored. We used to call it "blue berry juice". It does not change it's viscosity no matter the temp-even 40 below 0! It was designed and produced during the 50's and became obsolete with the electronic switching of today. So when the company threw it out by the gallon I scrounged as much as I could--more than a lifetime supply.  I even use it for patch lube in the winter time because it will not freeze. One drop will last in your lock for many months.     Hugh Toenjes

[Sam Everly]

Hugh ,  know the stuff you are talking about, my dad worked for the local power company . They used it in the substations for somthing. I had about 1 gal of it he brought home back in the 70's. That would be good for a lock , i called it purple STP. I use to rebuild Dist, for the racers back home and used it so the points still would work if it slung it on them . Oh boy i told my age , a dist, with points .     

[Roger Fisher]

And we have guys complaining about how expensive the sport of muzzleloading has become.  I tried racing Corvettes once, but my pockets were way too short.

Graphite!!! But I'm going to look til I find that ol plastic bottleof Accra.

Corvette   $#*! I raced my ol 34 plymouth 4 dr when we snuck in the local fairgrounds at night (late) dirt track once was enough

[Sam Everly]

Hey Larry , try this with the lock I fixed you . Take off the main spring and remove the sear . Turn it upside down, hammer down. Then flick the hammer , you will wonder if the hammer will ever stop rocking. Thats almost zero friction!   

[Larry Pletcher]

Hey Larry , try this with the lock I fixed you . Take off the main spring and remove the sear . Turn it upside down, hammer down. Then flick the hammer , you will wonder if the hammer will ever stop rocking. Thats almost zero friction!   

Hey Sam,
I just tried it, that is COOL!  About as slick as it gets.
Pletch

[frontier gander]

birchwood casey Moly.

[billd]

I use Starret instrument oil. I don't know the make up but it works well and since we use it at work the price is right.

Bill

[Jerry V Lape]

Shooters Choice all weather high tech grease.  It comes in a syringe type applicator so I can put it where I want it and it is the same stuff I use on the high pressure points of the actions of my modern O/U and SxS shotguns.  But most important is to clean off the old grease to get rid of the grit is picks up in use and apply clean before each use.  (That works well on some shotguns I spent way more than any reasonable person should - which I don't want to have showing premature wear!) 

[Dphariss]

I wonder what kind of lube does every one use on the moving parts of there locks .I have heard of all kind of stuff from mink oil to nothing at all. I know we put these little machines through some tuff treatment some times. I have seen some locks that are only 5 to 10 years old that are worn out , most never got a drop of oil in there life . There are some very good lubes out now, I have some synthetic , that is SLICK . I use to like the old STP , that was about as slick as you could get. But some of the new stuff has it beat hands down .           

STP is just an oil additive that contains zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. It prevents damage to cam lobes and lifters in flat tappet engines and other bad things from happening. I use it for fitting barrels with breech plugs or fitting them to actions.
I use 10w30 Amsoil more and more on firearms working parts. Its pretty darned good stuff used very sparingly.
For high pressure areas like sear noses or mainsprings bearing on tumblers one of the high tech greases is good.
In really cold weather, below zero, I would use a little G96 Gun Treatment and nothing else.

Dan

[Daryl]

Amsoil 2-stroke oil works well as a lube as well - non-thickening in cold weather as well.  In my locks, I use a moly grease - might be Birchwood Casey's - in a small round plastic can. It's great for locks and doesn't wash out when cleaning a lock - stays right there on the tumbler, sear and frizzen pivot.  Another good grease that doesn't wash out and has much higher lubricity than normal grease is Amsoil bearing grease.

These greases stay to lubricate and really smooth out a lock - even locks that feel like they don't need it. They are trigger pull weight reducers as well - within reason.

[omark]

ive been using synthetic motor oil. never worry about it getting too thick when its cold outside,,,,,,,,,cause i keep my guns near the fireplace,,,, with me!!! mark 

[Frank]

FP-10 and Lubriplate.

[William Worth]

Ah yes, Lube Lore, a subject that always intrigues me. 

I mostly use the flushing, corrosion protection, lubricity of sprayed on Rem-Oil, but I also use other things as well.  I have given thought to some things such as, but not limited to; 75-90 synthetic gear lube (heck, if it can stay on, lube and protect my motorcycle chain, what challange is a lock?) air tool oil (seems to provide excellent protection and lubricity).  The results of my lube experiences is of course, highly subjective, but I'll swear by the results.

The notion of "polarized" oils fascinate me.  I guess all of the synthetic oils are polarized.

[voyageur1688]

  Blacksmoke,
 I would be hesitant to use that stuff. The local power company up here got fined big bucks because some of there employees just dumped some of it (as well as some old power transformers) in the area. They had to pay for cleanup for oil that is a "known carcinagen" So aparently this stuff can cause cancer.
 Maybe it does, maybe it doesnt. But is it worth the risk?
 Todd