Final Finish Question

[brokenhand]

I have put another finish on a rifle and it came out pretty well, but I feel like I have to struggle and there should be some better techniques. I had never had to deal with carving before. On my better attempts  I usually tried to get my stock held in some kind of cradle ( so I didn't have to support it with one or more hands). Then I would use a thinned finish on a piece of cotton t shirt material and try to make passes the whole length of the stock. If I could not go the whole length with a pass, I would re-charge the t shirt, finish the pass and then go back again and run my pad down that whole strip again. Then I would just go around the whole stock until I got back to where I started. The carving kind of messes me up. I don't want to get a build up of finish in the nooks and crannies, but need to get some in there too. I have the book Gunsmith of Grenville Country. He describes putting his last appearance coats on drop at a time and rubbing them in. Seems awfully hard to do that way and keep up with where you are. He also describes using a tooth brush to brush finish out of the carvings. Seems like you would make brush marks. If you have some great techniques, I would love to hear them. Maybe someone could do a pictorial. Thanks for any help

[Mike Brooks]

What are you using for finish?

[brokenhand]

I have used Jim Chambers finish on the last 2 rifles I have done.  I didn't thin it any and looking back, might should have. I have also had good luck with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal,  Oil and Urethane topcoat.  I used to use Tru Oil years ago, but got out of the habit somehow. I guess the main part of my question was how it is applied.

[L. Akers]

When I finish a stock I seal it first with a home-made concoction consisting of 25% tung oil, 25% urethane and 50% mineral spirits by volume.  I slather this liberally over the whole stock inside and out, let it sit a few minutes then wipe off all I can with a rag.  Then I use the heel of my hand and rub it in.  I let this dry for at least a day.  Then I apply just tung oil.  I put my finger over the opening of the can and give the can a quick upside- down.  The amount of oil on my finger will do the right side of the butt up to the front of the lock panel plus the comb.  Another upside-down and I do the left side up to the front of the lock panel and the bottom of the stock to the same point.  One more upside-down finishes the rest of the stock.  I smear each drop around a little with my fingers then use the heel of my hand to spread it over the area.  Think thiiiiiiiin!  You have to rub hard enough to be generating some heat, so it takes some work.  If I notice liquid oil gathering in a corner or at the base of carving I use a rag over an orange stick to wipe it out.  Let each coat dry for a day.  I usually apply 15 to 20 coats.  This method would apply to most oil finishes.  I don't like Tru Oil because it dries too fast and you can't get it rubbed thin enough.

[smallpatch]

Chambers oil is the easiest finish in the world to use, and make a great finish.
Apply it exactly how the can says.
Flood the surface, wait a few minutes, flooding dry spots again,  then wipe off the excess and let it dry.  Repeat till you get the build up you want.

[Daryl]

I touch a finger into the oil, whether it is Permalyn, True Oil, Tung Oil or Danish Oil W/Tung Oil.

I then dab that finger to an area of the stock, several or 4 times leaving small 'dabs' of oil, then immediately rub it in over the area of stock that much oil covers - like - each side of the butt, 1/2 the forend on each side, then continue repeating until the entire stock is covered with a thin coat. Wait 2 days for the first one to harden, then one coat a day, resisting more often, in order to make sure each coat is hard. No runs - hard finish - perfect.

[flehto]

The final finish I use actually has 2 different final finishes. The first "finish" is LMF  Sealer which is applied as a wipe on/wipe off  application and has a soak in time of 10-15 mins.  2-3 coats are applied w/ a complete dry between coats. A tooth brush removes excess finish from the carving.  After a complete dry, steel wool is used to remove any surface sealer down to  bare wood.

The Wahkon Bay Trucoat is applied very sparingly w/ the fingers and really spread out until tacky. Again a tooth brush levels out any excess in the carving,...2-3 coats are used w/ a complete dry between coats.

This procedure produces a dull finish that can be given some sheen by rubbing w/ a fluffy towel. Below is shown a LR w/ the above finish....Fred