Author Topic: Lock too high?  (Read 4475 times)

Offline SBachner

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Lock too high?
« on: July 07, 2016, 03:04:38 AM »
This is my first.  :-[ It seems that if I finish inletting the main spring, it will be in the barrel channel. The third and fourth picture show that I've started breaking into the lower oblique side of the barrel channel.

The lock is an L&R Bailes. This is a pistol stock.

Is this because I have the lock too high?

Thanks,
SteveB.








Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2016, 03:13:35 AM »
It is common for a lock mortise to break into the barrel channel.  Especially when one uses a lock that is smaller than ideal for a particular build.  The Bailes lock with the old cast springs worked better than the new 'forged' ones.  That little 'tit' extension on the static end of the spring was there for just this reason.
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Offline wormey

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2016, 03:14:21 AM »
It`s a common problem you should be able to work out.  I have seen many originals where the mainspring was beveled or even the barrel milled slightly to accommodate the mainspring and/or the front lock bolt.  I am sure others will chime in, but do not despair.    Wormey

Offline SBachner

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2016, 03:22:58 AM »
Well, that's good news...kinda. I'm not happy with the lock mortise outline and thought this was the nail in the stock blank. But this is a great experience.

Offline SBachner

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2016, 03:52:33 AM »
It is common for a lock mortise to break into the barrel channel.  Especially when one uses a lock that is smaller than ideal for a particular build.  The Bailes lock with the old cast springs worked better than the new 'forged' ones.  That little 'tit' extension on the static end of the spring was there for just this reason.

Taylor, does a smaller lock than ideal imply it needs to be higher?

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2016, 04:08:02 PM »
When I made my first rifle I thought breaking through to the barrel channel with the main spring was a no-no, I narrowed the spring to prevent this from happening.

I went from a 32# spring to a 16# one, the gun seemed to go off OK. A few years later and several deer getting away from whoosh/bang ignition I decided to speed things up and ordered a new main spring from Chambers.

I had to put a slight (1/6") notch in the barrel to accommodate the spring. The new spring plus opening the touch hole to 5/64 completely did away with the whoosh and left me with only the  BANG.

Don't worry about breaking through with your mainspring and keep your lock functioning like it was designed to.

Now, I need to order a new mainspring for my second build, an English fowler, because I cut that spring down a little as well to avoid breaking through.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 04:09:02 PM by Eric Krewson »

Offline Curt Lyles

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2016, 04:53:33 PM »
Why is your front lock screw drilled before you have your lock in place. That looks like it could give you some trouble when you try to install it afterwards.

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2016, 05:09:42 PM »
It is sometimes difficult to use a small lock with a large barrel.

In the design stage, (sorry, this is too late for this project) lay your lock's bolster against the barrel at the angle you will want to use in the gun. You will know immediately how high your touch hole can be, or if you will need to bevel the top arm of the mainspring.
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Offline David R. Pennington

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2016, 05:50:13 PM »
It is sometimes difficult to use a small lock with a large barrel.

In the design stage, (sorry, this is too late for this project) lay your lock's bolster against the barrel at the angle you will want to use in the gun. You will know immediately how high your touch hole can be, or if you will need to bevel the top arm of the mainspring.

Or vice-versa. I had the similar problem with a too large lock and smaller barrel with the mainspring crowding the ram rod. I made a little brass shoe to ride on the ram rod drill and took a c-clamp and put pressure on the drill through the lock mortice and forced the drill to open the cavity sideways away fron the lock. With tapered rod I got enough room so I don't have to leave the rod sticking out on the business end.
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Offline SBachner

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #9 on: July 07, 2016, 11:27:03 PM »
Why is your front lock screw drilled before you have your lock in place. That looks like it could give you some trouble when you try to install it afterwards.

I drilled the bolt holes after the plate itself was inlet. Is it better to wait until all of the internals are inlet?

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #10 on: July 07, 2016, 11:47:54 PM »
Once your plate is in, you are committed.  Drilling the bolt holes then is fine, as long as they are both square with the world.

Acer has described the sequence perfectly.  To determine your parts' relationships, you must lay things out prior to cutting any wood.  If your lock's pan is somewhere near the centre of the side flat, you should be ok.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline SBachner

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Re: Lock too high?
« Reply #11 on: July 08, 2016, 04:02:47 AM »
I'm shocked.  ;D  You'all were right. I finished inletting the main spring and the top leaf just needs a little bevel. Cool stuff...wish I had picked this up 30 years ago.