remedies for holes in a powder horn

[bones92]

I have a powder horn, nothing fancy, but still worth using.  The trouble is that there are a few chips in the cowhorn near the base plug, one of which has left about a 2-3mm hole, just barely forward of the inner ring of the plug.

Should I remove the small brass nails, remove the plug, cut a bit of the horn base, drill and reinstall the plug and nails?  (would only need to remove about half an inch.)

OR... can squirt some gel glue into the hole, let it set and carry on?

It's not a terribly voluminous horn to begin with, so I'd like to keep as much capacity as possible (about 10" outside curve, 2" base diameter)

[grabenkater]

Sew a rawhide cap for it for the primitive look.

[Rick Sheets]

Fish a needle and monofilament though the hole and out the spout hole. Tie on a wad of a natural fiber like cotton or such. Put a good amount of epoxy on the wad. Pull it back through the horn and halfway through the hole. Wipe out the spout hole.

Let it set up overnight. Trim the wad flush with the horn. Use an exacto blade to carve the wad a little shy of the horn surface. Then use something like super glue and dry coffee grounds or other filler to kind of match the horn. Just be stingy when adding the super glue to the filler which is in the divot of the horn. You might have add filler then glue more than once. Carve it flush.

So I guess it is a little like a tubeless tire repair.


I have used coffee grounds and super glue on a dark horn and you cannot find the hole near the base.

[Tim Crosby]

Fish a needle and monofilament though the hole and out the spout hole. Tie on a wad of a natural fiber like cotton or such. Put a good amount of epoxy on the wad. Pull it back through the horn and halfway through the hole. Wipe out the spout hole.

Let it set up overnight. Trim the wad flush with the horn. Use an exacto blade to carve the wad a little shy of the horn surface. Then use something like super glue and dry coffee grounds or other filler to kind of match the horn. Just be stingy when adding the super glue to the filler which is in the divot of the horn. You might have add filler then glue more than once. Carve it flush.

So I guess it is a little like a tubeless tire repair.


I have used coffee grounds and super glue on a dark horn and you cannot find the hole near the base.

 Thanks Rick, Neat idea.

   Tim

[Hungry Horse]

 Quite frankly most of these repairs sound like a bandaid on a brain tumor. They either would be dangerous from the leaking of powder out of the horn, or dangerous to the powder, due to the leakage of moisture into the powder. Or really non primitive, and possibly butt ugly. I think the only safe and reasonable repair is to remove the plug, and cut the horn back, and reinstall the plug.

    Hungry Horse

[bones92]

HH, I think perhaps you are right.  A half-inch off the butt of the horn would suffice.

[bigsmoke]

You are possibly opening up another can of worms there.
By removing the baseplug and cutting the defective part off the horn, you will be narrowing the base opening.  Now, you are going to have to refit the baseplug.  That could be more of a job that you are thinking about.  Just saying...
John

[Robby]

This horn is one of my favorites and was very badly damaged. I pulled the base plug, made a patch from some deer rawhide I had saved, evened things up as best I could, brushed on some hide glue and laid on my patch that had been soaking in warm water, wiped off the excess glue and wound it with some waxed cordage, set it aside for a few days, reinserted the cap and its been going strong for, um, years, how many years I can't remember, so I guess its holding up better than I am.
Robby

[Tim Crosby]

You are possibly opening up another can of worms there.
By removing the baseplug and cutting the defective part off the horn, you will be narrowing the base opening.  Now, you are going to have to refit the baseplug.  That could be more of a job that you are thinking about.  Just saying...
John

 Thank You, John.

    Tim

[Brian]

You are possibly opening up another can of worms there.
By removing the baseplug and cutting the defective part off the horn, you will be narrowing the base opening.  Now, you are going to have to refit the baseplug.  That could be more of a job that you are thinking about.  Just saying...
John

What John said for sure ........................

[bones92]

You are possibly opening up another can of worms there.
By removing the baseplug and cutting the defective part off the horn, you will be narrowing the base opening.  Now, you are going to have to refit the baseplug.  That could be more of a job that you are thinking about.  Just saying...
John

John, I thought of that. I don't think it would be too much of an issue.   Looking at the horn, I can tell it's not much different diameter, if any, where the base plug would sit.  It's a cow horn that's mostly black, except near the base where it's very translucent, to the point where I can see the base plug.

In truth, it would be my first experience working with a horn, and I would rather learn on this than on a nicer horn.  It looks like a typical low-budget horn for newcomers to the hobby.

[Gaeckle]

How about a picture?

[HAWKEN]

If it is, as you stated, mostly black, I would consider using JB Weld.  JB Weld dries to a dark gray finish and a coat of wax or varnish will turn it black.  JB Weld is stronger than the material the horn is made of.  I once repaired a cracked, (frozen), pump with it and it has been working for 30 years..........robin   

[bones92]

Well, the issue is that the last couple inches near the plug are lighter in color.

I really do think the best thing is to remove the nails and the plug, cut it back a bit, and reinstall the plug.  I would only lose about half an inch.

What's the best way to cut the horn?  I have a coping saw, but I was actually debating using the miter bench saw (mainly for getting a clean straight cut).  However, I am cautious about cracking or damaging the horn.  Or would a hack-saw do just as well?

[Top Jaw]

If your cutting it, I would tape it with electrical tape to make a good cut line to follow and hacksaw it.  With age it may be brittle.  Might consider soaking in water first.  I would probably cut it just a tad long, as you will have to sand the cut edge on a flat surface to even it up, or on a disc sander.  Don't use a belt sander for this!  if there is any of the crack remaining  the belt can grab it resulting in a tear out, and doing it all over, minus another half inch.  Ask me how I know!!

[Robby]

It would be easier to cut with the plug still in it.
Robby

[hanshi]

I had one with cracks and damage that I cut down, made a new plug and filled the remaining oles with JB weld.  Nice little day horn now.

[Collector]

Didn't we just have a nice little tutorial, complete with photos, on just this very subject?

Holes/cracks, filled and blended-in, as I recall.

Commence!

[bones92]

It would be easier to cut with the plug still in it.
Robby

I suspect you are right.  Ill tape it off parallel to the existing edge, and carefully cut.

In fact, this may be the only option as i cant get the nails out, so I may have to snip the nail heads off, or at the least, removing them once the plug is separate from the horn will avoid damaging the horn.

[Tim Crosby]

It would be easier to cut with the plug still in it.
Robby

I suspect you are right.  Ill tape it off parallel to the existing edge, and carefully cut.

In fact, this may be the only option as i cant get the nails out, so I may have to snip the nail heads off, or at the least, removing them once the plug is separate from the horn will avoid damaging the horn.

  Try heating the horn with a Heat Gun and pull he Butt out. The nails may bend enough to get it out. In any case I feel confident that you will have made a new butt. In any case it is good practice.

  Tim C.

PS: If your not sure, send it to me. I'll fix it for you, N.C. Y. P. P.  TC

PSS: Is this an old, as in pre 20th C. horn? TC

[bones92]

Tim, not an old horn, and not a valuable horn.  Mainly im looking to not just fix it, but to learn a bit about working with horns.

[Rick Sheets]

Heat from a heat gun and possible black powder settled in a gap in the base and horn body?

I would not use a heat gun.

[Tim Crosby]

 Not saying safety is not always first. After thinking about using the heat gun, I do not believe the heat alone would set powder off. Emptying the horn I would think is a given.
 It does not take much heat to soften glue or wax if there is any.

   Tim C.

[razorbritches]

Testors model car paint mixed a drop at a time will tint or color 5 min epoxy to get a color match.  Prepare the hole and eat a small bag of potato chips, use the silver inside of the bag to hold the epoxy mixture in place.  The epoxy will not stick to the bag just hold it in place till it jells and let it stand for an hour then peel.  A little buffing and you should be there, if you are still concerned put a small copper/brass patch on it.  Don't hide it decorate it.

[Rick Sheets]

Testors model car paint mixed a drop at a time will tint or color 5 min epoxy to get a color match.  Prepare the hole and eat a small bag of potato chips, use the silver inside of the bag to hold the epoxy mixture in place.  The epoxy will not stick to the bag just hold it in place till it jells and let it stand for an hour then peel.  A little buffing and you should be there, if you are still concerned put a small copper/brass patch on it.  Don't hide it decorate it.

I will try this. Thanks.

Rick