Beginner horn project?

[The Baron]

I don't (yet) have the space or tools to try building my own gun, but I'd like to try my hand at being creative and make myself a powder horn.  Can anyone direct me to the supplies I would need - do they make a basic horn kit?  And what tools would I need for some very basic horn making and scrimshaw work?  I have zero experience in making anything but a mess.

I've got the book "Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn, the secrets of making, decorating, and aging fine powder horns", by Scott & Cathy Sibley in my cart for my next TOTW order.  Is this a worthwhile reference for a beginner?

[oldfireguy]

http://www.powderhornsandmore.com/product-category/powderhorn-kits/

[J Henry]

http://thehornersbench.proboards.com/  try this site.. Read "Tutorials"..  lots of great information there.No "Experts" just doers and friendly at that.
   and yes the book by Scott & Cathy is good.

[Dave Marsh]

I have found the Sibley book to be very helpful.  Well worth the money.

Dave

[bigsmoke]

I think David Race talked about making a powder horn in a motel room one time.  Guess all he had to work with was a file and a knife.  Quite possible that he started with a pre-cut and pre-drilled horn.  So, one surely does not need a big fancy shop with all kinds of power tools, but that sure makes it a lot easier.
What do you need?  Well, let's see, a hack saw, a drill and a selection of bits from 1/4 up to 3/8", some flat and round files of different cuts, something to scrape with, and the stuff to finish the horn with, coarse and fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool, wood to make the base plug and the stopper out of, and a few serviceable horns.  Half a dozen round toothpicks for pinning the baseplug to the horn and a drill bit just a touch smaller than the toothpicks.  Some bailing wire to make staples out of and a drill bit a little smaller than the bailing wire.  A small ball peen hammer is always a good thing, along with some side cutter pliers (I like to use electrician pliers for that).
That all should get you going.
For sure, the horn kits from Powder Horns and More will get you going a lot faster than trying to start with just a raw horn.
John

[Bob Roller]

I made locks years ago for a man that was a traveling salesman and he built long rifles in motel rooms and made jokes about leaving piles of "mystery" materials of wood and brass every place he went. Years before in WW2 he was pilot in command on a B24 Liberator and left much bigger piles of rubble in Hitler's Germany.

Bob Roller

[Mikecooper]

The Sibley book is ok for a beginner if you've never made anything.   

[The Baron]

The Sibley book is ok for a beginner if you've never made anything.   

Perfect for me then, and a copy is coming in my TOTW order.  I want to try my hand at making something - maybe even just start with making myself a loading block.  I'm feeling too much like a bench warmer.  LOL

[T.C.Albert]

Yes...take the plunge, its worth it...making a thing yourself is good...very good.
tc

[J Henry]

  Just wade in one foot at a time,sandpaper/scrapers are your friend . Can not mess it up,just what you envisioned, might not be what you end up with,but then, so !!!!
     What size horn you working?? what period are you working toward??

[Horner75]

The Sibley book is ok for a beginner if you've never made anything.   

I think that was Scott and Cathy's idea when they published the book.  Even experts have to start out somewhere, be it powder horns, rifles. clothes or pancakes!

[toddsndrsn]

I'm a beginning horner myself.  I purchased Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn.  Frankly I was left very disappointed with it.  It's very simple.  As Mikecooper mentioned, that is probably the intent.  The most valuable part of the book to me is the tool list they include and how to support the horn while working on it.  Everything else is basic.  I was hoping for a more in depth discussion about horn selection, things related to the architecture of the horn and associated scrimshaw work.  There is a reference list in the back for further readings, but I haven't had a chance to look at them.  The book does have some merit, but lacked what I was really looking for.

[Tim Crosby]

 The basics in that book are things that need to be learned, as in filling, shaping, proportions, coloring, etc... Once you get those down, you will have a good start. I have been making horns since the mid '60s and when I retired in '07 went at it full time at least 8 months out of the year. When the book came out I was thrilled to have it as a reference book, not only for the Tutorial section but the gallery of Contemporary and Original horns that some people never get to see. It lays open on one of my benches right now
 As for Scrimshaw, I do not do it but the information in the book and Lots of practice will give you about all you need.

  Tim C.  

 

[Horner75]

I guess to each their own, but I think that Scott and Cathy Sibley's book has started ( in the last few years)  a new wave (if you will) of contemporary powder horn makers in the ranks of the muzzle loading/black powder and re-enactor clubs and organizations.  Even though some won't admit it.  I know that many got their interest sparked by the book.  There are several books on the market for research and reading more details about powder horns, but also come with a more pricey price tag.  That too is a reason that "Recreating The 18th Century Powder Horn" is a bargain value for the price on basic horn making  information and picture content.

Maybe Big Bat will join-in on this conversation.  

[Dave Marsh]

I guess to each their own, but I think that Scott and Cathy Sibley's book has started ( in the last few years)  a new wave (if you will) of contemporary powder horn makers in the ranks of the muzzle loading/black powder and re-enactor clubs and organizations.  Even though some won't admit it.  I know that many got their interest sparked by the book.  There are several books on the market for research and reading more details about powder horns, but also come with a more pricey price tag.  That too is a reason that "Recreating The 18th Century Powder Horn" is a bargain value for the price on basic horn making  information and picture content.

Maybe Big Bat will join-in on this conversation.  

Rick, I completely agree with you.  Well worth the price.

Dave

[Rick Sheets]

I always recommend Sibley's book!

Sibley, Scott and Kathy. Reproducing the Engraved Powder Horn. Montana: Track of the Wolf, 2005.


For scrimshaw practice, doo-dads- fill and and general images, I recommend Master Horner Lee Larkin's book, A Sketchbook of Colonial and Early American Powder Horn Engraving Designs.


Larkin, Lee A. A Sketchbook of Colonial and Early American Powder Horn Engraving Designs: 1740-1800. Bedford, PA: Larkin, 2001.

[Mikecooper]

I made powder horns before seeing that book.  What I would like to have seen is more historical artwork to copy from as it's hard to just make up something to scrim on a horn, for me anyway.   But it is good to learn the basics and get a horn built.     When you get your first horn made post some pictures.   

Here's a scrimshaw tool I made.  Walnut handle,  the metal part is part of a needle file handle (jewelers file),  just the handle part cut off and ground to a point.  The point is kind of triangle shaped with a knife edge and flat side so you can cut or scrape with it.   Here's an attempt at a closeup of the point. 



a couple priming horns,
http://s880.photobucket.com/user/TalonD/library/Horns

[Cory Joe Stewart]

When I was in grad school I made many horns sitting in my apartment.  My first horns we bade only with a small knife for scraping, a rat tail file, and a flat file.  I had to borrow a drill from a friend.  I worked off of my thigh.  Then I got a small bench with a vise and thought I was something. 

Coryjoe

[Mikecooper]

I still don't use a vice.  I just hold the horn and work on it.   Arms, legs and fat belly is all I need   

A few tips for when you get started.   If you're going to cut octagon flats on the horn tip.   Draw lines where the edges will be.  That's in the book.   But what helps is if you sight strait down the tip,  if the lines are crooked it will be more visible looking at it that way.  Draw them in pencil first in case you need to erase and adjust.   

 to get the flats really flat with good sharp edges,  first make the flats with rasp and file but then finish them up by scrapeing them with a curved blade pocket knife.  That will make the flats slightly concave, not enough to see but enough to make sure they aren't rounded over and it makes nice sharp edges.

When antiquing, after the rit dye you can put potassium permanganate ('Old Bones') solution on it.  It mellows out the color of the rit dye,  makes it look more natural I think.   PotPerm is not light fast permanent though unfortunately.   

When putting a wire coathanger inside to find the depth of the hollow of the horn, lay the wire along the side of the horn,  not the inside curve or the outside curve.  It's more accurate that way.   If you measure on the inside curve and then on the outside curve it can be as much as an inch difference. 

The book will have you draw a line to follow for the drill bit when you're drilling the hole in the tip.   It's good to use 2 lines 90degrees apart,  keeps the drill going straight in two dimensions rather than just one.   Drill out the side one time and you'll know what I mean.    

Well that's a few things I figured out along the way,  hope it helps.