Author Topic: North Carolina Squirrel Rifle (Read 13034 times)

Cory Joe Stewart · « **on:** July 21, 2016, 05:04:37 AM »

Building a .36 caliber rifle in the style of a rifle featured in Long Rifles of North Carolina. 44" Rice Barrel, Chambers lock, forged trigger guard. It will not have a butt plate so it is a schimmel, barn, poor boy, po' boy, whatever you want to call it.

The overall shaping is done. Now just the clean up. Very curly, very hard chunk of wood. The wood also has a lot of staining lines in it, which I think add a lot of character.

Coryjoe

Swamp Rat · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2016, 06:22:17 AM »

Just an observation. A poor boy would not have $200 wood on a barn gun would he? I'd have to put a to put some sort of butt plate on there just to try an preserve the toe wood. Leather would be nice.

Oh yea I forget some peoples barns are nicer than my houses.

rfd · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2016, 01:08:25 PM »

don't mind the naysayers on the figured wood, it's Your rifle and all that matters is what You think. i think she looks very very nice for a "po' boy" - congrats on a good build ya got going there!

here's one of my po' boys, and i think the figured wood and dst does it just fine ...

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2016, 01:56:49 PM »

A couple of relevant points..... Can't tell from the pictures but the buttstock should only be about 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" or so. Also, the curve on the back of the butt looks like it is a little low, I'd try to adjust to the center or a bit higher. They were typically not much more than 4 1/2" tall too. Which gun is your inspiration?
As you well know from the book you refer to, really curly wood was often seen on mountain guns with out buttplates. WAlnut was probably more common but curly maple is a good historical choice as well.
I have a original NC gun with out a buttplate, it's no worse for the were because of it's lack of buttplate. Also, as you can observe in the book none of the buttplateless guns have much if any wear or damage due to the lack of the buttplate.
Also, looks like you might have some overall "skinnying up" to do. Always hard to tell just from pics.

Looks like your cheek piece may be too far back...of course the original you're copying could be the same.

That gun may look great with a scraper finish.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2016, 02:41:18 PM »

I get what you are saying. The original that I am going by had a super premium curled stock. The rest was plain, and almost unsightly.

Quote from: Swamp Rat on July 21, 2016, 06:22:17 AM

Just an observation. A poor boy would not have $200 wood on a barn gun would he? I'd have to put a to put some sort of butt plate on there just to try an preserve the toe wood. Leather would be nice.

Oh yea I forget some peoples barns are nicer than my houses.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2016, 02:45:50 PM »

Thanks Mr. Brooks. I am still playing with the butt area. It is interesting that it is kind of tricky without having the plate as your guide. The original I am looking at it rifle #170 on page 233. Ivey places it in the chapter with the Mecklenburg/Rowan schools, but admits that he cannot solidly place it in those schools.

Scraped finish is the plan. I have yet to completely pull off a scraped finish, so going to give it a go on this one.

I appreciate your help.

Coryjoe

Quote from: Mike Brooks on July 21, 2016, 01:56:49 PM

A couple of relevant points..... Can't tell from the pictures but the buttstock should only be about 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" or so. Also, the curve on the back of the butt looks like it is a little low, I'd try to adjust to the center or a bit higher. They were typically not much more than 4 1/2" tall too. Which gun is your inspiration?
As you well know from the book you refer to, really curly wood was often seen on mountain guns with out buttplates. WAlnut was probably more common but curly maple is a good historical choice as well.
I have a original NC gun with out a buttplate, it's no worse for the were because of it's lack of buttplate. Also, as you can observe in the book none of the buttplateless guns have much if any wear or damage due to the lack of the buttplate.
Also, looks like you might have some overall "skinnying up" to do. Always hard to tell just from pics.

Looks like your cheek piece may be too far back...of course the original you're copying could be the same.

That gun may look great with a scraper finish.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2016, 02:50:39 PM »

Quote from: Coryjoe on July 21, 2016, 02:45:50 PM

Thanks Mr. Brooks. I am still playing with the butt area. It is interesting that it is kind of tricky without having the plate as your guide. The original I am looking at it rifle #170 on page 233. Ivey places it in the chapter with the Mecklenburg/Rowan schools, but admits that he cannot solidly place it in those schools.

Scraped finish is the plan. I have yet to completely pull off a scraped finish, so going to give it a go on this one.

I appreciate your help.

Coryjoe

Quote from: Mike Brooks on July 21, 2016, 01:56:49 PM
A couple of relevant points..... Can't tell from the pictures but the buttstock should only be about 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" or so. Also, the curve on the back of the butt looks like it is a little low, I'd try to adjust to the center or a bit higher. They were typically not much more than 4 1/2" tall too. Which gun is your inspiration?
As you well know from the book you refer to, really curly wood was often seen on mountain guns with out buttplates. WAlnut was probably more common but curly maple is a good historical choice as well.
I have a original NC gun with out a buttplate, it's no worse for the were because of it's lack of buttplate. Also, as you can observe in the book none of the buttplateless guns have much if any wear or damage due to the lack of the buttplate.
Also, looks like you might have some overall "skinnying up" to do. Always hard to tell just from pics.

Looks like your cheek piece may be too far back...of course the original you're copying could be the same.

That gun may look great with a scraper finish.

That's a cool gun. Are you going to go with the "funky monkey" carving too? I would.

Goo · « **Reply #7 on:** July 21, 2016, 03:25:07 PM »

I have that book! which page is the inspiring rifle located on ?

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #8 on:** July 21, 2016, 03:34:02 PM »

Looking good, I'm with Mike I would go for the carving. There are also some nice horns in the book that would go well with that rifle.

Tim

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #9 on:** July 21, 2016, 04:08:07 PM »

You know it.

Quote from: Mike Brooks on July 21, 2016, 02:50:39 PM

Quote from: Coryjoe on July 21, 2016, 02:45:50 PM
Thanks Mr. Brooks. I am still playing with the butt area. It is interesting that it is kind of tricky without having the plate as your guide. The original I am looking at it rifle #170 on page 233. Ivey places it in the chapter with the Mecklenburg/Rowan schools, but admits that he cannot solidly place it in those schools.

Scraped finish is the plan. I have yet to completely pull off a scraped finish, so going to give it a go on this one.

I appreciate your help.

Coryjoe

Quote from: Mike Brooks on July 21, 2016, 01:56:49 PM
A couple of relevant points..... Can't tell from the pictures but the buttstock should only be about 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" or so. Also, the curve on the back of the butt looks like it is a little low, I'd try to adjust to the center or a bit higher. They were typically not much more than 4 1/2" tall too. Which gun is your inspiration?
As you well know from the book you refer to, really curly wood was often seen on mountain guns with out buttplates. WAlnut was probably more common but curly maple is a good historical choice as well.
I have a original NC gun with out a buttplate, it's no worse for the were because of it's lack of buttplate. Also, as you can observe in the book none of the buttplateless guns have much if any wear or damage due to the lack of the buttplate.
Also, looks like you might have some overall "skinnying up" to do. Always hard to tell just from pics.

Looks like your cheek piece may be too far back...of course the original you're copying could be the same.

That gun may look great with a scraper finish.
That's a cool gun. Are you going to go with the "funky monkey" carving too? I would.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2016, 04:08:30 PM »

Page 233

Quote from: Goo on July 21, 2016, 03:25:07 PM

I have that book! which page is the inspiring rifle located on ?

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2016, 06:22:41 PM »

"Funky Monkey" neat way to put it. Coryjoe I have a curly maple also with a bluish tint to it. What caused it have know idea. Stock has been shapped like yours from a plank . Go figure.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #12 on:** July 21, 2016, 06:50:25 PM »

If it is the same thing that happens to Poplar I think it is a mold that stains the grain. Because it follows the grain pattern.

Quote from: oldtravler61 on July 21, 2016, 06:22:41 PM

"Funky Monkey" neat way to put it. Coryjoe I have a curly maple also with a bluish tint to it. What caused it have know idea. Stock has been shapped like yours from a plank . Go figure.

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #13 on:** July 21, 2016, 08:17:53 PM »

You are right about that. I prefer to leave those fancy turned horns to you though.

Cory

Quote from: Tim Crosby on July 21, 2016, 03:34:02 PM

Looking good, I'm with Mike I would go for the carving. There are also some nice horns in the book that would go well with that rifle.

Tim

Daniel · « **Reply #14 on:** July 21, 2016, 08:58:40 PM »

Love the rifle. I like the simple yet beautiful architecture .
A simple horn would work well too.

Daniel

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #15 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:02:33 PM »

That looks real good. I like the color you achieved on it.

Quote from: rfd on July 21, 2016, 01:08:25 PM

don't mind the naysayers on the figured wood, it's Your rifle and all that matters is what You think. i think she looks very very nice for a "po' boy" - congrats on a good build ya got going there!

here's one of my po' boys, and i think the figured wood and dst does it just fine ...

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:04:18 PM »

Well the temp finally dropped to the low 90s so I can stand to go out in my shop. I got around to playing around with the "funky monkey" carving style on my current project. It turned out well and was a lot of fun to do. A little tweaking and finishing and it will be ready to go.

Coryjoe

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #17 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:19:56 PM »

Looks like you got it! TC

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #18 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:23:32 PM »

I have also started working on a horn as you suggested Mr. Crosby.

Quote from: Tim Crosby on July 30, 2016, 11:19:56 PM

Looks like you got it! TC

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #19 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:32:27 PM »

That really looks cool in a sort of funko-delic sort of way, just like the original. You did well with it.

wattlebuster · « **Reply #20 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:33:34 PM »

Cory me thinks you have nailed it

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #21 on:** July 30, 2016, 11:40:54 PM »

Love that rifle Cory, you did well with the carving.
Dennis

Sequatchie Rifle · « **Reply #22 on:** July 31, 2016, 02:52:09 AM »

The carving is a very, very nice touch! Well done!

BOB HILL · « **Reply #23 on:** July 31, 2016, 01:11:05 PM »

Cool rifle ,Cory. .......Bob

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #24 on:** July 31, 2016, 04:40:39 PM »

I really appreciate the compliments and the feedback everyone. I am now focusing on my favorite part of building a longrifle: lock polishing.

Coryjoe

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Author Topic: North Carolina Squirrel Rifle (Read 13034 times)

Swamp Rat

rfd